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Quagga

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Everything posted by Quagga

  1. Just becuse you will not do it does not mean you can not With the 12 speed stuff the indexing the the same, I have tried and tested this. Hence I can say that you can mix and match.
  2. Nick. This is not true at all. 12 speed between Shimano and SRAM is the same. So far so that you can run Shimano shifter, SRAM RD. And any cassette. Designed to work together is marketing speak.
  3. Keep you current free hub and go 11-52 Sunrace
  4. The difference in the speed “lost” is 9 rpm. 9 rpm in a 10t is the same spes kmph as 99rpm in the 11t With the new sunrace 11-52. One can run a 34 up front. Have a better climbing than 32 x 51 and more speed than 32x10
  5. Not low risk at all Major arteries run right next it. Please go see DR Kruger 1st.
  6. I did not read the whole thead, and only to the words FUSE in your post before my reply. Sorry if someone answered allready I had the same you have now.Got to the point where I server sciatica down my left leg, and constant burn under the ball of the foot.Clear L5S1 compression symptoms. Went to go see DR Kruger at Christian Barnard He did a discectomy NOT A FUSION. All he did was to remove the loose bits of disk that was on the nerve.3 years later I had simular issues, went to another surgeon (sadly not longer with us)He performed a MICRO Discectomy. 1st cut was 10cm long 2nd cut 2cm long Since then I have ridden 15 Argus ride, 3 Epic, Joberg2 C, Sani etc Dont fuse unless you have to. Ask for discectomy.
  7. RRP is nother term that gets my blood pressure up How is RRP not price fixing?
  8. Ok everyone needs their cut. However, when I go to VW and ask what radiator my cars takes, they look it and tell me and I pay When I go the bike shop and ask what bearings my rear hub takes or even my rear suspension, I get "hmm we normally take them out and check" So I dont mind paying VW for a mark up as I did not know what I need. LBS I normally tell them the part number to order, and then they put on their markup and THAT is what is not cool
  9. I am not talking about Midas etc But ford, is factory => dealer/shop floor not middle man
  10. Not the same, you buy a Ford fromt the dealer as you can not buy it from the facotry. However in the LBS worl, there is factory, worlwide distributor, local distributor then LAB then you. Buying a car you have Factory => dealer. one markup Bikes you have facotry = importer, distributor, lbs, you markup on markup on markup
  11. Agreed Then why should you and I pay a markup for anything? That is something that MarkHD does not address I think this "sole distributor" and only supplying bikeships is nonsense. I can drive to a car dealer and order a new radiator and fit it to my car, nothing about "we can only sell to a reapirshop and you must collect there" Yes supply the bikeshop, but why must I pay a markup when I can get it from the distributor.
  12. I will not take anyting to a bikeshop In the past when I did, it always comes back scratched etc What bike shop is accountable for their work and how? There is always an excuse from them. "Sorry but we did not work on that" "It looked like that when it came to us." Show me a bike shop with a proper bearing press, most use a hamer to install bearings. I have a proper press at home, but can not buy the one tool I need from you? Where are the LBS mechanic qualifications? I am yet to see any certificate on the wall.
  13. Report him to admin
  14. It is really nonsense that importers only supply bike shops. More than once have I needed something, bike shop could not assist as they don’t know what I needed or is just not technical inclined I did my research down to the part number off what I needed and now I must ask a LBS to order it on my behalf while they add in 20-50%. For doing WHAT....sending an email? You say riders should take their bike to LBS, while I can tell you many stories of various bike shops either ripping people or of shoddy workmanship. Like not torquing the RD to spec and it floating cause bad gear change. This person took the bike back 3 times. Every time lbs fiddled with barrel adjuster. The fact that someone needs to pay a markup to a bike shop for a tool is nonsense. If the guy wants to work on his bike, why do you assume he is not maybe MORE than capable? Maybe the dude that was asking about the tool is someone that replaces bearings on equipment that has far smaller tolerances than a hub bearing, or cost 10x what a bike cost. Maybe his daily job is working on turbines? But he must take his bike to a LBS? Really irritates me.
  15. True XC and trail are very different bikes. But there are some that tick both boxes in some way. Titan 120mm is one. With a carbon frame in your price range. Components are low end but you can easily upgrade later. Pyga stage or max. Those two frame are exactly the same frame but with a different shock fitted rear you get 110 or 130 travel Front you can run 120/140 Some have done 110 rear 140 front or 120 front Some have two forks 120 for stage races 140 to go do some enduro
  16. The thing under the paint sometime flexes and paint does not
  17. Any chance you have some fun f the old design bibs? Hey don’t like the new straps and low front.
  18. It is not actually a estimated split. The PM has an accelerometer in it so it "knows" when the right crank arm is producing power and the when the left is. The only "estimation" is when you are on the crank upstroke.
  19. It depends where he is getting speed data from, swift will record the "speed on decent" for excample And I assume that the other graph is from a wheel mounted speed sensor sending the data to Garmin head unit The best way to check data like this is with two Garmin devices, on recording the Tacx and one the Quarck
  20. Rather than comparing it like this. Connect your Garmin the the quark and lets say phone to the Tacx, then ride and watch them side by side. This is what I did with my Tacx and the readings were very close. Remember the Tacx show data every 1 sec. and my Garmin was set to avg of 3 sec. So remember to change your Garmin to 1sec.
  21. The best way to see if your Quark is accurate is to perform the proper home calibration. You need a calibrated weight, or get something that is really close. 25kg Hang that of the crank with rear wheel locked and look at the torque you get and compare that to the recommended from Quark. Then you can see if it is in limits. There are a few videos online, and it is also called calibrating the SLOPE
  22. I have been doing this for 10-years plus and never had issues. One just need to know how to spray
  23. What is the min hardware requirements? Can one get a trial version?
  24. Where in the article do you see that
  25. I posted here before wrt to Quark and the local distributer, can not find the npost now. Also had and older model that still needed the magnet to work and sent it to them for calibration. Got this response after I had to call and call "Sorry it only picks up cadence, no power" So what the guy was doing it putting the spider on the desk and running the magnet around the track.....you will only get cadence then as there is no force. "We would like to keep you on the product and can offer you a good price on a new one" Excited I waited for said price .....They gave R1200 off on the price of 23 000 Bought a stages
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