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While on the oakley topic... Bought oakleys from Junior Alberts (aka Marius Alberts), from Rawsonville 2 weeks ago, the bliksem sold me a fake pair of radarlocks. Afterwards I notified him of this and got into a hectic argument but I threatened him as I now knew where he lives and knows his name and I met him and got my money back. So keep an eye out for buying thins on the classifieds. Rather meet the person face to face and don't settle on sending the items off before the payment has been cleared. I want to trust people but it seems some of them spoil everything for the rest of us.

Sad but true.

LBS should have done those small things

Shouldn't they cut new bike chains to length?

+1, sounds like a chain that is too long. Use the over big blade and biggest cog method for measuring it.

My feeling about a sram vs shimano debate (if this was one) is that sram makes better top end groupos but shimano makes better budget groupos. XT is faultless but if you have the money, x0 is a damn fine setup. All exluding brakes, think shimano takes that one by a mile.

If I took your post up the wrong way then I apologise.

All sorted out. Think I dropped some oil while cutting the cable. Got shimano mineral oil (R130), and 2 x 10ml syringes (R5.80) and bled them using the method in the link. Good to know theres no air in your brakes.

Found this excellent read on how to bleed the 2012 style shimano brakes, with some diy goodies. http://www.bikesmoveus.com.au/showthread.php?5312-Cheap-DIY-bleed-kit-for-2012-Shimano-brakes

Daar sal sewe soorte *** wees

Exactly! Also, didn't shorten at calipers, shortened at levers but used the calipers to supposedly bleed them. The "no lever pressure" is probably from no oil in the system, will have to go get a bleed kit, should have bought one long ago but shimano brakes are just so trouble free, never needed them.

Was there (http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/brake-service-and-repair) they don't have any new articles. On shimano brakes. Latest seems to be 2009.-

Here's the link: http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0008-downloadFile.html/02%29%20Brake%20Hose%20Trimming.pdf

Refer to my comment for jorsie. Ok, so the brakes where on the bike (cables were clipped in (the cables where attached to the frame) but the calipers where hanging loose), after shortening there was mineral oil on the floor at the rear caliper (why would there be oil?) Cause that is what the steps in the link said I should do. Found the link on mtbr (I think) few guys tried those steps and it worked a treat. Shimano hydraulic disc brake cable. Like deore/slx/xt (new models). The idea behind removing the pads and then pulling the levers to get the pistons out (not all the way) was to push all the air that got in when cutting the cable back into the reservoir afterwards when you push them back).

You don't think someone else will/have cut their own hoses without needing them bled? This thread will hopefully give some info on what I did wrong, how to correct it, and how to prevent it for future reference. Googled and could not find a straight answer to someone who messed up shortening their shimano disc brake hoses. Tried pumping the lever as per one user's advice but that does nothing. So I suspect there is a air leak in the system but I don't know. Now, I get the feeling you are still sour about a comment I made, you made your reply and I left it at that, I would appreciate it if you keep your unjust comments to yourself.

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Ok, I know this was discussed before but somehow the forum's search option is as good as Zuma's word. I shortened my new disc brake's hoses yesterday, followed a link I got on the web. It is for shimano 2011 and up but it went south. Loosened the calipers, took out the pads, pulled the lever a few times to get the pistons out, loosened the nut on the lever, took out cable, cut to desired length, insert olive, hammer in the small pin thing while clamped into the yellow blocks, insert cable, tighten until you need the spanner, then another 1/4 turn, use tyre lever to push back the piston (only one came out?), insert pads and bobs your uncle... But no, after all this the front brake was fine, but the rear had some mineral oil next to the caliper and there was no pressure in the lever. I did give the cable a good clean cut. What did I do wrong and how do I fix it?

I think the problem starts with drivers who drive way too slowly, trucks and everyone who are a frustration to those road users who drive on the speed limit or a bit below it. Those that drive half or even less of the speed limit is causing motorists to get impatient. Now when you pass the 10th truck, and 5th cream isuzu bakkie with a canopy that is roped onto the back end and some people inside, then you start losing your cool. That is where things get dangerous. PS: forgot to mention those CF numberplate okes.

Your are mostly preaching to the choir here.... Haha, Wayne should go post that on the 4x4 forums.

As high as a kite..!

Saw bmc, radioshack and focus...? No problems here.

Nee kyk nou is Suid-Afrika op die map!

R1 brakes?

The question is for how long are you going to run 3x10 drivetrain? If you go 11-36 you have the option to go 2x10 later on...

11-34 is more than enough. The XT 11-34 is nice and light.