vanniri

Best value for money can only go to Giant or Merida. 2 points: If you gonna spent money (all carbon is expensive), buy something you really want (it might be a Giant or Merida). Rather look at after sale service on carbon frames than bang for buck when buying. Carbon has been known to sometimes fail

DT swiss, my latest bike does not have any Shimano (sometimes the odd XT chain). It is kinda fun to have a bike without the big S - nothing against them though.

Most likely culprit - BB or Cranks. Remove crank and BB, clean everything properly. Put grease on all threads (including bolts) and axle. Refit. Check all chainring bolts are thight. Second most likely - QR. Do the same, remove - clean - grease - refit. Third most likely - stem contact points: handlebar or steerer tube. Do the same, remove - clean - grease - refit, Except the steerer tube - do not grease. Also note - fancy carbon might have issues with grease. Note: Putting a thin layer of grease on axles serves no other purpose but to check next time (when you remove) if grease is still original color or contaminated. If the grease in the axles are contaminated in could indicate the need to service your hubs/etc. Creaking noises when seated usually comes from seatpost (grud in the slit/sleeve) or grud in the rails of the saddle. Again: remove - clean - grease - refit.

Since you mentioned these top-notch products I assumed you will do serious XC. For your porposes (and considering were you live) I would consider something like Shimano hubs (XT or XTR) build with Mavics X819 using DT double butted spokes. All these components are easy to get or find suitable temporary replacements. But if you mind is set on one of the three - all should be good for your intended use. I used to live and ride in Macedonia/Kosovo/Albania/Slovenia/Bulgaria which is close to Turkey. Some real awesome riding in these places, only problem being not much company and spares are hard to come by. Enjoy the food in Turkey - the Balkans (including Greece) can only attempt to prepare food like the Turkish. Turkish airlines are also great.

After cleaning the bike I will smear some oil around the stanchions and pump the shock a few times. The result is a thin line of grud pushed from the sealer lips. Then just wipe clean this line and your good to go. I?ve done this will all my shocks (2 x manitou, 3 x fox, 1 x R/S & 1 x Marz) - currently I have a R7 and fox. The line of grud seems to be the most notible on the Manitou/R7. The Marz (bomber) very rarely made a noticeable line. The Marz was by far the most problem free shock. The first Monitou had the most problems - no problems so far with the R7 (6 months old - very wet riding)

I do not greet any roadies since I do not see any roadies since I do not hang-out at coffee shops

Mavic - good looks, expensive to service (broken spokes, etc.), bearings not serviceable, hub life good Shimano - good name, spokes relatively easy to get, bearings easily serviceable, hub life excellent DT - swiss precision, easy to find spokes, bearings not serviceable, hub life excellent Personally I will choose Shimano or DT, had more bad experiences with Mavic than either Shimano or DT If you weight below 70kg all three wheels are sufficiently stiff for XC. Beware of FR, if you intend to do any rather choose DT (easiest to service when something goes).

Apart from the parallel thing JB is referring to (and I agree with) - I have also notice a marked improvement with different lever combinations and by swapping to ceramic rims (and brake blocks). I had the best experiences with XTR and Avid single digits (9.0 I think). Latter one has less maintenance issues. Regarding the pads - Koolstop used to make, well, really cool one?s. XTR ain?t bad either. In dry weather a proper set-up V-Brake with ceramics is as good as a 160mm hydraulic Disc on a XC bike.

Before going out to buy, in my experience the grade is not the only variable to take into account. I used to service my Manitou in the dark ages using the correct grade etc. Sometime later (+6months), the lockout was only a memory. When I finally sent it to the pro?s they told me I used a wrong type of oil - mineral/blah/blah. Apparently it contaminated the seals/washers/whatever.

For all interested. An article on frame materials worthwhile reading http://www.63xc.com/scotn/metal.htm

I checked the data again, The riders used were Manni Fumic and Karl Platt The bikes tested (2009 team issue Carbon HT) were; Rotwild Cannondale Storck Scott Rocky mountain Ghost Merida Specialised The data included: Heart rate: Max/Average Pedal frequency (Average) Power output: Max/Average Speed: Max/Average Length of XC course (depends on the lines chosen) The speed is also broken into section of the XC course. vanniri2009-05-13 08:27:25

I read a article some time ago on the german BIKE magazine were they tested high-end race carbon bikes against one another on a XC course. They took two racers (Stephan Sahm (spelling?) and one of the Fumic brothers), gave them two rounds each on a carbon HT (8 different manufacturers if I remember correctly. The rounds were done seperately and bikes were chosen randomly. They tested, Spes, Cannondale, Merida, Ghost, etc. All current team issue bikes. Then they measured things like speed and time in different sections of the XC course, cadence, heart rates, etc. and compare all the data. From the results Sahm is a better racer than Fumic, yet the correlation between them (on the same HT) was amazing. If you PM me your e-mail address I can mail you the comparison tables. Descriptions are in German.

My suggestion to Jan will be a little PR in SA, not with the aim of making us believe Raleigh bikes are the best (they sponsor pro teams for that), but to illustrate the history and origins of the frames/components. In general it is time for cycling to get off its high horse of "made in the east = bad", "made in the west" = good. Having real life statistics, for e.g. number of carbon frames manufactures vs. number of brands, etc. will go a far way to address peoples questions/ignorance. Concerning the cracking 2006/07 frames, maybe it was a manufacturer problem. If so rebates could have resulted in cheap 2008 frames, thus resulting in 2008 prices not being comparable to 2009?

Friend of mine in the Free State got this exact frame as a replacement for a previous Spes Carbon HT which developed a hairline crack. I did a training ride with him - had a hard time keeping my eyes of his bike (it?s even better looking in real life) He had it two or three weeks - fell awkwardly in an XC race and cracked one of the seatstays! Luckily had insurance. He told me he is waiting for a Taurine coming this week.

If the 96 is USD 7500 - my bet will be USD 6200 complete bike I bought the FLX team last year, did not think much of Merida before that. It changed my opinion completely. Btw I paid USD 3800 complete bike. Have to agree with the paint job - looks better in real life, but flames approaching the crown jewels?

For a trail bike at this price have a look at the Santa Cruz Chameleon - the guy wants ZAR15k. Of your two options you mentioned the Merida gets my vote. The Silverback ain?t bad either and the OnOne is very well price for a bike that will turn heads (Santa Cruz the same)

Brazil bike prices and parts are so horrible I buy stuff in RSA when I get to visit. The other day I wanted Sram links for a Shimano chain - LBS wanted the equivalent of ZAR 6,50 for one - yes, only one side and you need two! I made such a fuzz, they told me I can have it for ZAR 4.00. Later on I heard the going rate is closer to ZAR 7.00 - my wife told me I have to go an apologise for my behavior... For 2009 their prices also increased +20%. A guy told me today the Merida 96 team is more than 40% more expensive than in Portugal! I visit Germany/Swiss/etc. regularly. Their parts are not much cheaper than RSA, the bikes are cheaper (especially the top-of-range one?s) Since the devaluation of the GBP the UK is a very viable option. Have never been to US but the locals (in Brazil) says it is dirt cheap.

Do the course of Johan. His prices are reasonable (taken into account his expenses) and he is willing to bargain on tools (you get reduce prices if you don?t need some tools). For free you get a week-end of talking bikes

Raleigh will pick the fruit for this early bird move, if many more follow it could result in deflation pressure which will have all wait for a better price when tomorrow comes. Realistic prices are good, zero profit margin (or cash burning) prices are not good in the long run since people (you and me) will loose our jobs. Let?s hope this recession thing turns quickly.

A general remark on cockpit items - when I started Mtb it was common knowledge that the handlebar should be replaced every two years (normal riding - more if aggresive or frequent). The seatpost was said to be within 6 months from the handlebar. Apparently the above is no longer promoted - maybe since most people ride their bikes only 50km before selling them (look at the for sales section - only "hardly being used" bikes for sale).

Btw, XC race geometry is 70/1 degrees, downhill 72/3. A 1 degree change is a big issue, but only if you are serious about a specific descipline!

Three things: 1) Increasing the travel will increase the stress placed on your headset tube, in particular the downtube/headtube area. It could break. Have a look on internet if increasing the travel voids the warranty, if yes, then your frame design does not support 100mm. Other considerations: Do your bicycle have a gusset? Ask somebody from your LBS to give an opinion. 2) Your headset angle will slacken, i.e. increase. In general XC bikes have a steep angle and downhill bikes a slack angle. A slack angle assist going downhill (your body tends to be more towards the back). A steep angle is very responsive, i.e. reacts very quickly. It depends what you prefer. 3) If you choose the 100mm front shock, but dislike the effect on geometry, try to increase sag. Sag is the amount the frontshock?s travel decrease when sitting on the bike. Normally you will require 20%. On an 80mm this is equal to 16mm, with 64mm available for bumps. To get a 100mm close to this (70mm should be fine), you need + 30mm sag. I have done this before - the front shock becomes more plush and nosedive during braking is also reduced. Note: If your bicycle do not pass test # 1 do not fit the 100mm front shock or expect to tell the manufacturer you were just riding (minding your own business) along when the frame (unexpectantly) snappped.

On my first XC race in Brazil I was presented with the choice of registration, I waited two months for my card. During this time, my name was on a pre-printed form at all the races I attend, including all my relevant details, I even received a fixed race #. Brazil is so far behind SA in most respects, I am saddened to read all of the above.

Check out: www.bustedcarbon.com I also ride a carbon mtb. I?ll be unhappy when it breaks, but will not be surprised. Funny - would probably buy another carbon frame when happens. For what it is worth: I also found a site rating frames by performing fatique tests - will post it later (have to find it again).