quintonb

My 1968 Cinelli "Special Corsa" Pista All I need is the original stem, bars and wheels.... Long term project, parts available at a premium and I'm a poor collector

Hi. Sorry misunderstood that part. You should just be able to unscrew the existing freewheel body and screw the 7 speed one on. I have done it on wheels before. Taken the uniglide body off and put a hyperglide body on. The problem with uniglide is getting cassettes. Hope I am understanding what you want to do.

I may have a 7 speed freewheel body that you can screw onto your dura ace hub.

Awesome Matthew, I really love your work.

Would like to see/know what Columbus tubing that is... That will give you a good idea of where the bike was positioned in the range.

A Daccordi is always worth restoring. They are brilliant bikes.

Frame looks like a 58cm, maybe a 60cm C to C. If its 60cm then its just my size, just saying

Autosol is brilliant metal polish. We use it on our plastic injection moulding surfaces, it keeps a great shine. I didn't know you got a clear powder coating. I did have my polished cranks clear coated using automotive quality clear coat, problem is if you get a small scratch the oxidisation happens under the clear coat and causes more hassle than its worth.

The guy I chatted to regarding the anodizing is: PJ Prinsloo. His work address is 5 Albatross Street, RhodesField, Kempton Park. His Email is. splash.anodizing@gmail.com May be worth trying out.

One thing to consider, once polished it will be raw aluminium and if you live along the coast line it will oxidise. I live in Durban and I have to wipe mine down after every ride to get rid of any sweat that may cause oxidisation. There is a guy in Joburg who says he can naturally anodize and keep the shin. I still need to try a sample out.

Its almost impossible to stuff it up. Just start off with 800 waterpaper (And please dip it in water while using), sand until any "deep" marks have gone, then go onto the next grade and repeat the process. Takes time and patience, but you will be rewarded with a great looking crank. Aluminium is probably the easiest material to polish.

Do it yourself, these old cranks took me about 5 hrs to do. I started with 800 WaterPaper and went down to 1500, then I used Brasso and then AutoSol polish for the final shine.

That looks like my size... 60cm Centre to Centre maybe...? How much do you want for her?

If that design stays I would bet the prices of the current stuff will stay high. The last of the classic campag groupset, so to speak... Let's hope that's not the case...

Not sure I like the 4 arm spider on the cranks. I don't like it on the shimano, and it looks even more out of place on campag. Just lacks that classic look and feel.

So hard to find craftsmanship like that now days. Awesome to watch.

Very hot, I love the Orange/Gold rims....

I built up an old Hansom that has 7-Speed on it, very difficult to come by a 7 Speed Cassette. So I bought a 10 Speed Tiagra 12-25 Cassette and knocked the rivets out of it and used the separate blades to make up 7-Speed ratios of my choice. I just used the 7-Speed spacers with the New Tiagra blades.

I think you may have a few more issues that will come into play with an old steel road frame. I would think your head tube angle will probably be to steep and it will make the bike more difficult to control (too twitchy). I would say its best to get the correct frame in order to fully enjoy the CX experience.

C, always C... its the perfect reason to buy another bike.

How easy is it to do this type of paint job?

To me it looks like the frame has been repainted, I may be wrong. Parts are not too hard to come buy, just expensive. eBay has loads of old components, at a price though. Do some more research on the frame, colour scheme etc... That's a good start point.

Very nice bike. The 105 equipment won't be worth very much. The greatest value is in the frame. Now that you have an accurate dating and an email from the factory, you have something of value. It would be nice to know what tubing it's made from, eg. Columbus SL, SLX, etc. I would say around R1000 to R2000 for the frame. If you intend in restoring it, you should build it with the correct equipment. Chances are in the early '80's it would have had Campag on and not Shimano with Sti levers...

Copper slip is the best for something like that. I live in Durban and ride an aluminium cannondale with an aluminium seatpost, I only ever use copper slip. It doesn't go "waxy" Like grease does. Best to use it on all screws,bolts, pedals, etc. That way you will never have an issue with a corroded thread. I think the compound you are talking about is what shops use on carbon bikes. It's fairly thin and gritty, the "grit" stops the carbon from slipping and creaking. That probably won't work the best for your problem and will cost quite a bit more.

Hi Tyrone did make decals for me just like the ones you have. My problem is living in durban. The sea air corrodes aluminium if it's not anodized. I have managed to find a guy in joburg who says he can anodize and keep the shine. I will send a sample up and see how it goes. If he can then I will apply decal after anodizing and clear coat over it all.