love2fly

I use an Allen key socket with a PowerBar (long wrench not the overpriced energy bar) 😀

Have dropped you a message.

That might require some open-heart-surgery but nothings impossible.

👍 that's the plan. I'll be starting on my own spare pair of Spez shoes shortly with a before:after.

Thanks. The high price of decent shoes is what started me thinking. Its not great to replace shoes after a scuff or when the finish and the non-aging carbon sole is still good. I'm going to look at customization also. It's a special leather paint that can handle flexing which doesn't come cheap but I have time and while it's not entirely free I plan on keeping prices reasonable.

Nice idea. One could maybe cut that u-shaped pad out of a heel that shoemaker fit to your shoes when they resole. Just cut with a small band or jig saw and grind to fit. Or buy hard material.

Thanks. I'll PM you my no if you could then perhaps whatsapp me pics showing damage and other angles?

Cool - Thank you I'll do that. I'll send you my number so you can send me some pics for us to assess what's required. 👍

Hi Just testing the waters.... I have a bit of time on my hands and like working with my hands restoring and fixing....(sometimes fixing whats not yet broken)! Earlier this year I repaired my road carbon shoes which had one carbon sole toe section broken when the car that hit me parked across my toes..... (s'true). So, what I'm looking at doing is kind of similar in that while my repair was on the carbon sole, I'd like to offer a full cycling shoe restoration service doing the uppers and sole. It would be primarily to fix scuffs and damage or rejuvenate paintwork and even look at customization after I've learned to transition from walking (slowly with a stick) to running. There are sometimes limitation iro of how bad the shoes are and colours etc (I have a pair of Spez shoes with a massive scuff across some fake carbon that not possible to replace so there I'm planning on changing the carbon to a contrasting colour. I'll include the link to a young lady who does amazing work in the UK to show what is possible.....and i'll include my before and after on my road shoes (sole only) https://jarpz.com/#about My question is whether you guys think it's a viable business (it doesn't have to pay the rent and would be in part to fund my cycling habit). I would offer courier/Pudo and collection/delivery - based in JHB.

Sorry to rain on the parade. Maybe it's just me but my road bike seldom needs more than a wipe down with a damp cloth while my MTB gets washed after every ride which isn't more than a light spray from garden hose with hose rinse of chain links and after it's drip dried I run the chain through a dry cloth squeezing in my hands with lube done night before a ride. I find washing my bike somewhat therapeutic plus I get to check any issues and I know I'm 100% not overwashing bearings or the chain. That's just me but I have a family member who could easily afford even daily bike washes who also prefers to wash his and the Missus bike.

I saw somewhere that its considered an "adverse"result and gets treated differently....is that correct? Will they test a B sample?

Don't bother with the Wahoo belt....probably worse. I've had 2 go bad.

Is it me or is the pin that prevents the chain dropping behind the crank in the wrong place?

My brother once opened a 9S Shimano shifter and it was waaaay complicated. Had to buy a new shifter... 😃

Yip my 10S Ultegra was badly frayed in the same place....

Yip that's what I tried but it didn't adhere. Its crazy to scrap a usesble tyre for just one cut.

What method are CL going to use? Walk over to the tyre aisle and pick a new tyre?

For small cuts the sealant should be doing its job. If there are not dozens of cuts remove tyre and patch from the inside. No glue applied from the outside will stop air from leaking. Superglue generally works best on 2 flat-mating, non porous surfaces where air can be excluded. As an aside I've tried it to fix a small cut on my Gatorskin clincher to no avail. I'm guessing silicone is my next best bet?

As to how often in my experience as soon as you get a delayed down shift its time. Can also be the cause of your problem. On some frames, like my Cannondale Supersix I get juice droplets finding their way under the BB into the cable routing guide. I clean that and very light grease maybe twice a year. If its a secondhand bike it's a good idea to replace shift cable and housing. Brake cable and housing lasts longer - gets less use.

Yip. Nothing wrong with Spanjaards. For cleaning where bearings seat like BB 's and headsets, freehubs etc I get rubbing alcohol from the pharmacy. I guess brake cleaner works too.

Brake cleaners are generally alcohol based andnot harsh at all. It's very similar to degreaser but doesnt leave a residue. It's perfect for this function.

Before you get too technical chasing problems check the outer limit screw and cable tension. Try to **** it as normal - then put a finger under the cable to add tension near the derailleur - can it move more? If NO back the adjust screw out 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. If YES then give the cable a bit more tension. Try to avoid Q20 into your shifter as those type of sprays are often silicone based and silicone is a dust magnet. Rather spray out with brake cleaner with bike standing upright. Once dry lube with a bit of dry chain lube or a little wet chain lube or regular oil. Less is more. Funnily enough what seems to be the case for front derailleur cable tension - often instinct says you need more cable tension when you actually need less. For such a small component it can give you a lot of **** 😀. How old are your cables & housing?

How often do B samples test negative? AFAIK it's virtually never?

Usually the better-worded ads would say "Cable & remote excluded". I don't think any dishonesty intended so buyer & seller should meet halfway.

Miss Phil and Paul's commentary....those were good days.