Spoke101

Thought I would add the German national team. And this restores my faith in carbon fiber if it can handle this type of abuse.

I wouldn't mind giving one of these a test. but would definitely have to something about the looks.

Yes, I live across the road from Cascades and on one of the climbs of the course. Depending on the race length you are doing I have ridden most of the route through riding in the area over the years and I would like to think I am a strong cyclist. (finished 12th at Sani2C) I will be running my trusty 2X10 26-39/11-36 as some of the gradients are over 20% but only for 200m at most. The course is also very up down up down in order to get the required elevation in the stipulated distances so you can't really get into a good rhythm as it is like a big XC course. I'm not a big power rider so i like spinning on the climbs and pushing a bigger gear on the flats, I know I'll definitely use by 26/36 at some points in the race as for the other end of the scale not to sure but probably 39/12. All the local guys running 1X11 are changing to a 32T up front. hope this helps.

I did see it and you make me very jealous.

I was thinking more along these lines and a carbon steerer

I Raise You

I got R1's yes they can be a pain to setup. 1. Clean every thing with isopropyl alcohol. 2. Lightly sand pads and rotors on a flat surface. 3. Clean every thing with isopropyl alcohol again. 4. Then bed them in properly. 5. Don't drag your brakes, Brake hard and then let go. Try get your self a set of Quaxar Carbon Metallic pads for R100 or harder wearing Carbon Sintered for R160 Edit: Typo

The course will not be exactly the same as the link but similar.

Racing Jackets are great but if you sweat a lot and the bottom of the frame sits on your face you tend to get a puddle at the bottom of the lenses. Radarlocks are a tighter fit that Racing Jackets and don't seem to suffer the same problem as don't have a lower frame. Evel Eye's had one of the first pairs so not sure about the new ones but they used to come with 3 sets of the nose and foam pieces that you could swap to get the right fit. I also fount the lenses a bit small as I could see the frame.

No, There definitely needs to be a gap otherwise the cap bottoms out on the steerer tube before the headset is pulled together.

Plastic and there in lies the problem, if we are talking about the same thing "Split Ring" Plastic will never hold up under the stresses and strains of MTB. On the right of this pic is a metal split ring. When you mentioned Avalanche i didn't want to jump the gun but I would never use or recommend Avalanche components be used on a proper MTB. I have nothing against Avalanche or your LBS but Avalanche is generally used on your Game/Makro bike. Now I don't know the Make/Model of your bike so I can not comment. Price is also a factor as a good quality Headset by a reputable make will set you back R400-R500. All the best with sorting out your problem.

Ok. That being said I'm pretty sure it's the crown race or split ring. I'm not sure what type Avalanche use. It should be either FSA or Cane Creek and you would need the corresponding bearings either red or blue seals respectively.

8 stands for the 8th Generation Dogma as for the F, Frame maybe? Edit: The eighth generation of DOGMA creates a play of words that can become a perfect advertising slogan: The Eighth Dogma ... the eighth wonder of the world.

Who installed the headset? What Brand is it?

You will still have your old one in your fork and it shouldn't need replacing

That is a Star Nut. It is pressed/hit down the steerer tube of the fork. And is what the top cap bolt treads on to in the fork and thus pulls the fork towards the top cap to tighten the headset

Once you have checked and it is definitely the headset. I can only think it is the wrong bearing - Crown Race or Split Ring Combination. What make of headset is it?

Ok. Try this. This is the general test. If you stand over the bike and pull the front brake so it locks up the front wheel and holding the handlebars like you were riding, then rock the bike backwards and forwards. Whilst doing this try place your fingers of the hand that is not holding the front brake around the headset and see if you can feel any movement. If you do this and there is movement then something is not right. If not the headset if could be one of the following. But being an MTB it can be movement between the Fork Stanchions and the Lower legs, the wheel skewer could be loose, the Disc Rotor if the bolts are loose a "Disc brake" or even the brake pads.

No problem. Is it a MTB or Road Bike, and how are you testing if there is play or not? Not trying to sound funny but the brake caliper tight?

This sounds a bit strange. Hard to tell without checking the bike. But I'll give it a go. 1. Is it just the Headset that you have changed? If so does it use the same Crown Race as your old Headset? ie. have you changed the Crown Race on your Fork? 2. Is it a carbon Steerer Tube? If so make sure the expansion nut in the Fork is not being pulled up inside the Fork every time you ride. 3. Do you have enough spacers under the Headset Cap? ie. Is the Cap butting up against the fork before all the slack has been taken up? Give these a try and let me know. I'll try rack my brain for any other causes.

What a MAN.

Sorry to here the bad news. on the other hand you are quite an inspiration Mr FrancoisC, You make me realize how fortunate I am, how I should be more grateful for what I currently have and how to always focus on the brighter side of life. I thank you for this and wish you and your family all the best for the future.

King Wild Warlock

This is actually a married couple who constantly prank the heck out of each other and record it. This is on of the tamer clips.

Imagine taking a jet boat or fan boat (more eco-friendly) around there.