Spoke101

What's up with the Hanna's and collar bones.

I wouldn't know but will give you a "Bump".

Stan's 3.30 Ti hubs with Race Gold rims.

I hope it doesn't have Colnago painted on it.

I think it also largely depends on the type of bike you are riding. ie. A ridged Hardtail vs a 160mm Trail bike.

http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb9806172/p4pb9806172.jpg

Then the German ladies take the cake. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhmIDBiI3os&feature=player_detailpage Hey does anyone have a spare Track bike I can use and I need someone to hold my beer.

And then there is the German level. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qznkZAnaK4&feature=player_detailpage

Thought I would share the bicycle equivalent of synchronized swimming. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48C_KHwt53c

I'm sorta in the same boat 188cm tall 93cm inseam. Have ridden a 60cm but cuz I got long legs and short torso found it a bit of a stretch, so I rather have 200-300mm of seatpost out the frame and ride a 56-58cm with a 100-110mm stem and 44cm bars.

Where did you manage to find one of these?

You are probably on the right size bike, but a lot more than just height comes in to play. I am 188cm and ride a 58cm frame and have also ridden a 56cm so it is definitely no to small.

That interesting. I think I will have to do some digging.

I know your pain AAAAAHHHHGGG and I have over filled my master cylinders so that the lever travel is reduced which compounds the problem. A few tricks that might help these have been formulated after hours of caliper setting experience. Always have dead straight. if they not straight get one of these and make them straight. http://thebiketube.com/sites/all/files/tools/tl288k00.jpg Once rotor is straight then loosen caliper, then grab the corresponding brake leaver and pull it hard, whilst pulling the lever tighten down the lower caliper bolt and give it a slight nip ie.(the one that sits below the top of the rotor and this should only be tight enough to stop it from wobbling/moving). Now release the lever and give the wheel a spin if you can still here the rotor rubbing then using your fingers to grab the caliper at the loose bolt side ie.(the side you didn't tighten) and while the wheel is still turning move it slightly inwards our outwards, now because it is lightly tightened down at the other end there will be some resistance. Once you have moved the caliper to a position where the rotor is no longer rubbing tighten down the second caliper bolt tightly and then tighten the first bolt properly. If this doesn't help get your self a set of these. http://www.bikegoo.co.uk/shopimages/products/normal/birzmanclam.jpg Which slip over the rotor and then you push rotor with this over it through the brake pads and once it is in the pads you tighten down the caliper and then remove it.

To answer your questions yes you can use a 10spd FD it will just need to be adjusted correctly as the "cage" the part the chain runs through is slightly wider than on a 9spd. Tho answer the second question have a read here. As for the mixing of SRAM and Shimano yes they are compatible BUT ONLY when running a double ring crank. So in your case (I presume you are running a triple crank) NO they are not compatible due to the pull ratios being different. So you will have to use a SRAM triple.

I agree some of the comments on YouTube are disgusting and probably coming straight form the Internet Troll's home planet. As for the news networks. My understanding is that if you post something without first protecting it then it's free game for the world to use and you don't see a cent.

I have the same problem with our Jack Russel.

Thanks. I'm 188cm and because the Santa Cruz bikes have a shorter top tube I would be an XL. If you going for the Pascoe then defiantly go for a Pike and 1X11 for an extra 4.5k it's well worth it for the weight loss and simplicity. The Pascoe will be a bit heavier than the carbon bikes. But if you are out there to just ride and have fun you won't go wrong. Being an AL bike you tend to not worry about crashing as much and if you do mess up the paint you can always strip and respray it. The Bronson and SB95 are works of art as well as being great bikes but you do pay a premium for this. I personally don't like how you can only get Fox build kits for the Bronson but hey being a lighter rider I find the Rockshox forks are more sensitive and have more tweaking ability. I spoke to Pat this last weekend as he was riding a demo carbon XC/XCM bike at the local race and the down low is there is a 160mm bike the works and probably carbon models as well but as they are doing everything from scratch so you looking at a year plus. In closing the Pascoe is great value and an incredible bike, go have a look at some of the international reviews on the Pyga's, plus you have local support form Pat. I would however upgrade the Crests to Arch EX rims, What hubs? and definitely get a dropper post and you have a dream bike.

Yea it's crazy. If I'm not mistaken they use the engine out of a Dodge Viper.

Due to working part time in a LBS I have been lucky enough to see and ride: Enduro S-Works Yeti SB95C SC Bronson C SC Nomad 26" and 650B Pyga Pascoe All of these have been test rides and messing about checking everything after services etc, apart from the Nomad 26" which I have ridden once on a proper trail. A friend and customer has both the S-Works Enduro and the Yeti SB95C. He reckons the Yeti climbs better and is probably a better all round bike. The S-Work took him a while to get used to on the tight stuff and was a pain setting up the Cane Creek DB, but now reckons it descends better than the SB95. As for the Santa Cruz's, these are bikes we sell, and are lucky enough to have "demo/shop" ones as well. I would say that the SC Bronson is in line with the Yeti and Pascoe as I think it is a slightly better all rounder and by this I mean best of both climbing, descending and just a bike you can do nearly anything on. Where as the Enduro and Nomad are more "downhill" orientated for lack of a better word as in they go down a trail better than they go up one. For example the owner of the Yeti road Sani2C on it and loved it. But I couldn't see anyone riding Sani2C on a Enduro or Nomad these are your Enduro focused bikes even though I think they might be overkill for our local Enduro's at the moment with guys getting podiums on 130mm bikes, who knows what the future might hold. I have no major dealings with the Trance so can't really comment. If it was my money (which it isn't) I would look at either the Bronson, Yeti or Pascoe as these you can go and do your local 40km on it as the geometry is more neutral and pedals better with a steeper head angle and less rear travel. As well as go and thrash the local enduro and maybe one or to of the tamer DH events as these bike are plenty capable. Now out of those 3 bikes it's a hard choice as all have there draw cards. Yeti being the rotating lower pivot, and there not being many around, Santa Cruz being it's VPP and extremely well though out (linkage grease nipples) and bullet proof design (frame strength) and the Pascoe being Local and having a fantastic rear linkage that pedals well yet feels like you have endless travel. Don't take this the wrong way. If you can get a Santa Cruz Bronson Carbon with XO1 build kit for 66k take it now and never look back. I think +-75K is a bit more realistic. In the end it boils down to what ever floats your boat. Edit: I would also take in to account that the Enduro and SB95 are 29er's "for now" 650B next year probably, so if you are tall or short this might affect your choice.

SAA proudly brought to you by the.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpMuAOf_1Hc&feature=player_detailpage

I think I need to build a track like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Bnw1_xbF1MU