Wyatt Earp

It's a gamble. You need to actually measure it with a vernier, or look at the markings on the existing post. My guess would be that it's in the 30's

This is my one. Quite old now, if I say 10 years I might even be lying, probably even older (can’t remember when they came out) It’s a brilliant tool. The most accurate of all chain checkers, and I have around 20 different ones. To elaborate on the rest. I’m not a big fan of changing a chain like underpants. My usual recommendation to people is to ride the drivetrain till it’s properly done. There is really no financial rescue, nor an exponential wear gain by replacing the chain every now and then.

When I saw this topic early this morning through sleepy eyes, I read "ride friends who are separated" It did make me quite nervous.

I learnt a few things very early in life. When it comes to semantics, any debate is futile. When someone gives themselves off as an expert, but cant even manage using a chain breaker (this happened during a ride) they are not worth debating with. But I will give it to the man, he has strong arms, he managed to pull the wool over many peoples eyes.

What kinda riding are we talking bout here ?

The guy thumb sucked everything he said, also just wanted to be controversial for the sake of it. Technically and mechanically inept.

Taken with the Fujifilm X-T5 and 10-24 lens

Probably because he found this a little too advanced to understand.

I’m simply just reading with great interest.

If you are in Johannesburg we can help you with these.

Most bad wheel builds only manifest themselves after a long period like a year of regular riding. Many can lace and build a good looking wheel. Building a lasting wheel is a whole different animal.

There is lots. Jagwire and Swisstop have great options.

Correct, and then you get wheelbuilders that fix other wheelbuilders mistakes.

And you get 38 teeth on the large ends right ?

Only when I up the little watts I have.

We have 36 and 38 tooth ovals in stock.

This Lakeside Lunadic sounds like a real sweet oke.

These are hard questions to answer without knowing the terrain you will be riding. But as a novice my advice would be to put on a 32. You will definitely be spinning out on the downhills, but then again leave that to the guys who feel they are winning the Epic. You will be running the 10 as you say, even then it’s not an easy gear to spin out (there are guys who grind and think they are moving quick, but they normally get left behind) Cadence is your friend, it’s not about ego and about who can turn the biggest gear, it’s about moving forward efficiently with the least impact on muscle fatigue. Thats why people pull out of races like Attakwas, they would rather blame the heat than admit they went way too hard in the beginning with a gear their legs couldn’t really handle.

From what I saw, quite well marked .

Absolutely, once ridden the big loop on the gravel bike as well as the lesser technical flow line.

Wow, have been absent for a long time and then stumble upon a thread that leaves you weak in the stomach. Reinet, wishing you much strength for today.

40 mm

Silverback Siablo Deda gravel bar and Deda tape, San Marco saddle. Pirelli Centurato. Otherwise standard. Got it from Craft Cycles in Sunninghill.

Fantastic news