You will have to find that point where you feel comfortable as leaning too much forward puts too much strain on the arms. You need to learn to feel where you are comfortable with the left to right sway of the bike as well. As a rule you also need to change down at least two gears as you cannot maintain the same cadence standing as you were sitting ie much lower cadence when standing.
Unless you have a scale with a calibration certificate and the scale is sized to measure in the weight range of your bike then do not even try to believe the weight you see. What can be used is if you do upgrades on your bike and you use the same scale the error is constant and the improvement in weight will be real. I can also give you a scale that will measure your bike at 6.2 kg Oh and like ED said what is the accuracy?
Yep did the same thing and yes took a few falls and have holes punched in the side of my head by the frames with stitches required and yes broken frame the end result. Would have wished to stay but on the way home had some business today at the Petrol Boys....
Yea I can relate to that my eyesight was -7.5 and -10.5. I had to remember where I put my glasses otherwise I never find them again. Had an eye op so much better today but yes old age is coming and I can see next time it is bi-vocals or something. Rudy project is crazy with prices like that. PS Weather is a bit windy here at Durb's Airport
Yep that's why I am so jealous . My normal glasses have been photochromatic since around 1978 Paid R350 for the D.Arcs (2 set of lenses) and around R600-900 for the plastic lenses as they have no scratch coating on did not think required as they are sitting in other lenses. Lenses are also not Bi or Tri vocal as those add a monstrous amount of money to the price. Getting to the old age eye problem years... :D
Realy nice. I battled with the same problem and got a pair of D-Arcs with the inserts but would love a pair of photocromatics as changing lenses all the time is a schleb. B)
Then it is the middle way Reba/Fox F32. Personally I like the fox more as the lock out works much easier on the fox ie very light to turn compared to the Rock Shox Tora I had. The weight difference is huge from the Tora for the price you paying. If possible also go for a QR15 or QR 20 but that means you will have to change wheels or your front hub at the same time.
I thought Rock Shock Tora is a coil spring oil fork but none the less would strt with that and change to air fork ie Fox F32 RL 100 or Rock Shock Reba/Sid 100mm
I am 188cm and ride a large Specialiced XC Comp so maybe the XL XC Pro could do? http://www.specialized-sa.co.za/contentbike.php?range=206&year=&bike=182 And I see they have stock as well. Cannot find the geometry but maybe worth a look.
Set of wheels I built with Johan's gracefull atention, patience and a lot of help. Still running true as the day we built them, Hubs : Hope Pro 2 Rims : Not Tubes - ZTR Crest Spokes : DT swiss Double Butted Nipples : Brass
Bought them from Shimano as a demo set and I can only talk of the utmost praise. I have done about 5000+ k's on them and not trued them once. The Durace Ace bearings run supersmooth and I think I reset them once. They feel stiffer than Ksyrium SL's but that is purely a subjective road feel and there is a defenite difference in accaleration they spin up quicker than my mavics. Most of the weight is in the hub itself so your inertia on the wheel is less and you can "feel" the difference. Note they are the WH7850 C24 CL and not the scandium ones. Quality of the rim and carbon is also great.
