VincentBikes

The RC6000 Alu is way different in quality and price compared to your RC8000C which I presume is full carbon and it came with 105 and weighed Around 10-10.5 kg's. Never said there is anything wrong with them I actually had two.

Yep! When required but currently the weather is OK for outdoor training.

I'd rather be riding than drinking :D

Ja ja Big H will cut of after I am happy with setup. Dropped the bars significantly lower from the Raleigh settings.

I ended up pimping the Raleigh so much it turned into this

Thanks Ed but I think the front brake blocks alignment was out which might have caused some localised overheating and hence the residue on the rim.

The alcohol did absolutely nothing but the acetone did the trick. Completely removed all the residue and brakes now work perfect no damage to carbon. Washed the rim completely afterwards with clean green just to make sure. Funny thing was only the front rim that had the problem.

Will start with the alcohol as that is the least aggressive I think and yes will only try a small spot first.

Thanks Edman - Yes they are the yellow carbon specific blocks. I thought that alcohol, thinners or acetone might do the trick but was just scared of damaging the carbon.

I have some residue from DT Swiss SwissStop brake pads on my front wheels braking surface (carbon). Anybody have some experience how to remove this as normal soap or handy andy does not work. The residue became quite hard from the temperature I think.

Not all presta valves you can remove the valve body. Look just beneath the head and there should be two flat sections either side of the valve. You must turn this like normal thread to remove the valve body section. Have not got picture but you should clearly see it.

Did anyone else also have to pay the CSA fee of R75-00 as mine got automatically added even though this years is paid up?

Hey Gerhard Gaan maak 'n draai by Johanelle. Sy sal jou kan help met alles. Ek het gewig verloor deur die oefening en te verander na wat sy aanbeveel het om te eet. FO

If I look at CWC web site there is realy not much to choose from on the prices for cleats between, Look, Time and Shimano. Riding Time and Shimano at the moment and if weight is a problem I choose the Time's but from Durability and Cleat wear defenitely the Shimano's. If you do not like the rock on the Shimano' get the red one's as they have 0 degree float compared to the 6 degree on the yellow ones. I still have my first set of PDM 540 pedals and they still working fine. New ones are better though with the stainless plate on top.

Contact Polar and arrange to attend one of their training seminars. IHF Products cc P. O. Box 4021. Halfway House 1685. South Africa Tel: (011) 805-1028. Fax: (011) 805-5498 Speak to Harald Zumpt. You will not be sorry!

Try www.ebicycles.com which should give you a better guideline. That printout is a size 50 c-c so you should look at a 52-54cm bike c-t depending on your inseam measurement and the way some manufacturers measure their frame sizes. Some measure the vertical distance on the seat tube while others measure along the length of the seat tube so just watch out for that.

As far as I know you are supposed to put a replacement pin which you buys loose every time you break the chain. This is a solid pin with a guide section which you break off once you installed the pin. My orriginal 7900 chain came with a master link but Shimano replaced them all as there was a wear issue with them. You should not be breaking a road chain without a very good reason as they are not designed to do so in my opinion. If you do want to break them rather use a SRAM or other power link that will fit the chain if you want to remove the chain for cleaning.

You can use sealant with road tubbies as tubbies you can take the valve core out to allow you to get the sealant into the tube. I had a puncture on a ride a week ago on a continental sprinter tyre and the sealant stopped it and I finished the ride without having to add any pressure. The sealant that I find works the best you can buy from Specialized http://www.specialized-sa.co.za/contentequipment.php?cat=176 it is called air lock sealant. For best results you can add a little water up to 50/50 to make it flow inside the tyre better. It is in the region of about R100 for 8oz of sealant which is good for two MTB tyres. I add less in a road tubby.

If you want to upgrade the best place to start is your wheelset. I have had alluminium bikes and full carbon and to me changing the wheelset made the biggest difference. In terms of what wheels I have a set of Dura-Ace Carbon/Alu Clinchers which are great for training as tubes and tyres are cheap compared to tubular tyres. You can pay about R1200 for a decent tubular tyre in this country and if you have a big enough puncture you throw them away as they are seamless and cannot be repaired. (not all tubulars) Aded problem between alu and carbon brake surfaces you have to continously change the brake blocks as you cannot use normal brake blocks on carbon wheels. This is at best a pain. For racing I use a set of EC90 Aero's which are brilliant but do not like strong Cape Town style crosswinds or any deep section for that matter. In my opinion the new EC90 SL's which is a medium section carbon tubular with very minimal loss on aero and even lighter than the EC90 Aero's should be a very good wheel to GO for. SRAM make a nice set of I think S40 or something but I have no experience with them. The Shimano 50mm and 28mm Carbon Tubular's are also very good wheels and worth looking at.

Toney Impey in Bedford Center Just Cycles - New redruth RPM Distributers - Nigel.

Veteraan :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

The total swing of an 11 Speed and 10 Speed deraileur is the same. They just managed to fit 11 gears in the same distance that is why your chain is thinner on the 11 speed so you must just adjust the top and bottom stops. Ran a 105 10 speed on a 9 speed settup no problem. The indexing is determined by the STi not the deraileur.

Sealant and Rim Tape but the sealant must be amonia free as some of the tyres get eaten by the amonia from the inside.

If I remember correctly the whole issue was about the mounting bracket at the back wheer the brain portion of the rear shock is mounted to the rear stays.

According to our LBS ( I took the notice up with them) the bicycles was never issued in SA and all the stock was sent back to Specialized. That was the reason why there was no stock avaialble in SA for quite a while. Therefore all bikes in SA was repaired before issued to shops.