Tankman

I hate the Tundra, Gobi is much better for me! I cant stand or rather sit on the Tundra during long rides. Gobi all the way

My 1 of 3 SS's (2 road + 1x 29er)

Looks in the region of $299 for the regular model and $399 for the Elite (WiFi + GPS accelerometer and altimeter) I love the Garmin GPS units ... but I wont be replacing my Hero3 with one of these!

Does it work/help? I have tried it once before but found the slime just blew out of the puncture holes and only started sealing at around 4bar. Never ever bothered again. Cant ride them at 4bar so what is the point?!

They cant be Firecrest. Firecrest is a full carbon rim with carbon braking surface. Not the alloy braking surface, those are the old 404 clinchers.

Not true, I have successfully converted normal Easton EA90's into tubeless using yellow Stans tape and tubeless valves. Just like you would any old mtb rim. Works a charm! The tires are the problem, they are expensive and choices are limited. Last time I tried, I could only get Hutchinson or Michelin tires at around R800 to R900 a pop! (I would rather ride tubbies for that price!) Also would not use Gatorskins or GP4000's or any other tires that are not Tubeless specific, their sidewalls are not as strong as tubeless versions. Think what he was trying to say is that more and more manufactures are bringing out tubeless versions of the standard rims. Easton, Shimano, Fulcrum, etc, they all have tubeless wheel sets available now. But still does not seem that common amongst us!

Correct Funjunkie Giant has a compact geometry and the size is measured from center of BB to center of top tube. That's where this mistake was made, always buy a bike based on top tube length. You can easily adjust saddle height but you can not adjust top tube length.

Crazy, I dont know how someone can not hear that ... probably cause it is Shimano quiet ... Avids you would have heard for sure!

This is the worst case I have ever seen of Brake surface OVERUSE! Braking with the pistons, not even the pads!!

Thanks for that! I have now moved on & up to Flandria Cycles in Stellenbosch but still know, love & use Garmin. Will still help where I can. Chreers Henk Oh even bike shops send the units to JHB for repairs. Their quoted turnaround time is 21 days (excluding shipping)

Thats the beauty of crit racing, it takes just One lap then its not new anymore!

The Powercal (HeartRate strap) seems to be pretty accurate! Specially when you compare averages over the duration of the ride. There are seldom more than a 5% difference between the powercal hr strap and a powertap, on average. The difference is much more noticeable when doing intervales or sprints. There is a 5 to 10 second lag in HR when kicking out the power. But instantanious on the powertap hub or crank. When it comes to the gps unit itself. Again, Garmin wins hands down! Garmin is just much more userfriendly. The Joule seems too finiky and not userfriendly enough to customise it the way I would like. Luckily the Powercal HR is Ant+ and works perfectly with Garmin. If you dont want to spend R15k plus on a powertap, dont worry much about that precise output number initially but still want a good idea of your power output and you are in the market for a new HR strap anyway, Powercal is the way to go! Retailing at R1395 (2 in stock), its a great power tool for the professional amature! PM if you want one!

In terms of aerodynamics, the Firecrest is supperior. Not many other clinchers compares to the Firecrest Clinchers. The Firecrest are awesome in crosswinds! 303 = 45mm profile 404 = 58mm profile A better all rounder for a lady, 303. For me, 404 no doubt, it look saxier and I need every bit of an aero advantage I can get when trying to catch up with the mountain goats on the descent.

Too late and he did not listen!! This guy was in the shop earlier, when asked what the hell he did to the brake pads? "Oh it was making a noise so I put some Q20 everywhere" Seriously, I kid you not! Thanks for the business Vetseun!

Yes you do. If going from 2x10 to 3x10, then you need to change the FD. The 2x10 cage is much shorter than 3x10 and it will sukkel to drop the chain into granny gear. If changing from 3x10 to 2x10 you could get away without changing the FD. Wiht the longer cage you have more room for movement

Yes you do. If going from 2x10 to 3x10, then you need to change the FD. The 2x10 cage is much shorter than 3x10 and it will sukkel to drop the chain into granny gear. If changing from 3x10 to 2x10 you could get away without changing the FD. Wiht the longer cage you have more room for movement

Or as they say in Brakpan... "Hou vas my dop en check hierdie frokking move!'

Have owned a couple and had some to play with growing up on a farm. Still the most stopping comes from the front ... but yea on the motorbike you use the front way more than the rear. And you can control your speed with the throttle much more on the motorbike than on a bike that doesnt have one. Seems like I need to explain the crusing speed I am talking about. I am not talking about crusing speed on flat roads. I am talking about crusing speed on technical, downhill, rocky stuff or speed in corners. When going down the rough stuff, I will use the front and back to slow me down quickly if needed but then continue to use the rear much more than the front to control crusing speed, specially when my face is already hanging over the front wheel. Or when entering a corner, use both brakes to slow down quickly but once you are in the corner already turning and reliase you are still carrying to much speed, are you going to pull the front? I'm going for the rear brake, closing my eyes and hoping my drift move works!

And if you were wondering SLiiick, this was not on the front

This is the worst case I have ever seen of "How to Fark up your caliper, piston and rotor ... not even to mention brake pad!" When you use the piston to brake, not the brake pad! What worries me ... this would have made a moerse noise for a moerse long time and this person didnt notice! But then again, Shimano's doesnt make a noise, only Avids does! (evil laughter)

Naas doesnt run it, he uses a courier company! Seen him on the bike plenty but never running.

oh and I am obviously talking mtb. Only way you can brake without feathering or controling your crusing speed is ... roadie or downhiller. On the road you dont use brakes much, you can control your speed in the peloton by swirwing in and out of the slipstream. But then its best to avoid riding close to the nervous-on-the-brake-noobs in the peloton.

I am not guessing. I see this daily with bikes coming into the workshop. 90% of the time, the rear pads are 70% further worn than the front. If you use your front more ... goooood on you, you fall into the 10% that uses the brakes correctly!

Aah this old topic again. I didn read any further than the 3rd reply, so sue me. That is simply because that is how 99% of the bike comes pre-assembled from the factory and everyone has gotton used to it, even mechanics building bikes from scratch. The manufacturers probably wanted to keep it simple for all the noobs: Right controls everything at the Rear, rear brake and rear gears. Left controls everything at the front, front brake and front gears. Simple is not always logical! Most stopping power comes from the front brake. Crusing speed is controlled with the rear. Lets face it, eveyone uses the rear much more than the front. With the majority of the population right-handed, why oh why would you want to use your dumb hand on the brake that can send you flying over the handlebars?? I can feather my front brake much more accurately with my dominant right hand than my dumb left hand. If I suddenly grab a fist full of brakes with my dumb left on the rear, worst is a tailslide. Not so with dumb left controling the front! Also, I can control my crusing speed with my left hand on the rear, leaving my right hand free to shift suddenly when needed. Right = Front, seems more logical to me anyway. Excuse typo's, sent on the go!