Jewbacca

Just bear in mind that a hard tail will steepen up into the sag and a dual suss stays much the same in the sag as it doesn't swivel off the static back wheel. So hardtail frames generally have a bigger difference between 'static' and 'effective' HTA

It runs pretty much parallel to the N1 for most of the way. I remember thinking how clever it was initially that it's 'remote' but also never far from the N1. It does make logistics a whole lot easier than say, RASA. The race is cleverly laid out and the riders are very well looked after for something billed 'The toughest race on earth' I would love to give it a bash on my BMX. I'm just too poor to afford an entry!

For what? I'm pretty sure you can ride 500km over that week and not even be on STRAVA? Or are there actual prizes these days and not just a virtual Noddy Badge you never look at again?

@TyronLab is that the AIR frame version with the EBB? I always wanted one of those

I am unfortunately in Cape Town and have a broken arm. Next time you're in Cape Town, DM me. I was thinking more trail riding, so up Irish and down Iron Monkey or Red Phoenix. I shall not engage with you further as it upsets Nonky and I don't believe you are particularly good at riding, despite having ridden lots of demo bikes. Hit me up if/when you make it here, you can show me otherwise and it will be cool to put a face to the name Back to posting rad pictures of bikes!!!!

Sorry Nonky. Hopefully the next few comments will be pictures of @TheoG's red rocket and some other Smashable Rapide Tigres to look at (that is an invitation Theo) and clean up the mess Apologies once again

hahahaha well I did break my elbow last week riding bikes, so he will have to accept my challenge in 6 to 12 weeks when I am able to hold the bars again... I am yet to decide on CTCT next year. It depends how fit I can get. I did see a guy selling a 1970s raleigh chopper on Marketplace which I'd be keen to add some bar end tassels and dress up like @Hairy in assless leather chaps and open leather waistcoat and pretend it's a Harley

So it's OK for you to share your experience and opinion, but not OK for others? I didn't even disagree with you but you feel the need to sarcastically attack me without even addressing what I said? You are the epitome of why Internetting is ridiculous sometimes. Without being funny, the Specialized Fuse is a crap hardtail trailbike compared to really good ones. The fact that you think it is actually the perfect hardtail trail bike for us shows me that your area of expertise perhaps lies elsewhere. I'd love to meet you and go and shred some trails with you. Bring your dual suss, I will bring my Steel hardtail. If you can drop me I will take you seriously. Until then, lets stop playing the man and try to stick to the topic. I am certainly not a foremost expert on bikes, but I have ridden a few really cool bikes and done some really cool stuff on those bikes, 99.999% of them hardtails

Gear side down!!!!! The sacrilege! Thats a cool bike. Some 30-40mm carbon deep sections will be amazing

Ah ok, my mistake. Do me a favour and post a picture of your wheels when off the bike? Notably the hubs. If the smallest cog is an 11 speed, you likely have a standard shimano/splined freehub body

My 2c, as somebody who has ridden some stuff on a few rowdy hardtails for a long time... I have an old NINER ROS9 frame. It has less extreme geo and I run it with a 120mm fork. It has successfully clean run Plumber with features and most other 'gnarly' trails in the Western Cape many times. I looked at the Rapide when it was first released and the STA was worryingly 'old school' slack. Some of the slacked out proper HT trail bikes are pushing the 80' effective STA with fork in the sag. I think a steel bike will generally have better ride characteristics to an Alu bike (like the fuse) although the specially designed for compliance Banshee Paradox seems to be ticking a lot of the boxes with those who ride hardtails. There is a reason many 'trail' oriented companies release their rowdy hardtail in Steel. So while the Spez might feel nice, I'd suggest there are far better trail hardtails out there. The Starling Roost looks rad too. Having ridden one of those Fuse's I'd suggest it is average at best when compared to a 'proper trail hardtail', even my ROS9 feels better and it's old. The Grimm Doughnut experiment was quite interesting and neither proved nor disproved the theory of diminishing returns and extreme bike geo Our trails simply aren't very steep, so more bikes are suitable.

I think he said 10 speed? If I remember correctly, 10 speed uses a regular splined freehub. If the wheels are QR, you will need to make sure the wheels you buy have interchangeable end caps. Very seldom are carbon disc wheels sold as QR these days

It's also a really good way to see if there are enough people in and out of the farm to make the right business decisions. Tracking the traffic, time of day, length of stay etc for a business model firmly reliant on feet through the door is an important tool for decision making. Make no mistake, the farm is no longer a 'feel good' investment with a cricket oval like it was in the days of Dave McCay It is now firmly a business

It's an easy figure. If the wheels drop out of open slots with the axlw still in the hub, you have QR wheels, usually front 100x9mm, rear 135x10mm. If you unscrew an axle and have to remove the whole axle in order for the wheel to drop out of round holes then you have 12mm axles, rear 142x12 and front 100x12 It's that easy

Ask your Doctor. Seriously, all cases are different and run different risks. You will get many anecdotal 'My dad did this, I didn't have a stent but had a bla bla, my mommy did this and that etc' but they are all different cases. You will not get a medically definitive answer here. The Dr will know and he will advise on YOUR specific situation. The end

Just use the filter? Road bike wheels, brake type disc - then filter the price to 0 to 10000zar There is a really good set of Giant carbon wheels. I'd buy those. You WILL need to know the axle types and widths of your wheels though as I see above you say you don't know. You can't buy or even look at wheels unless you know what hub widths and axle types you have

He is saying they as 'the farm'... that's how I read it? No matter where you go 'they' (the farm) charge you an entry fee

There are some really good carbon wheels in the classified for under 10k? Realistically, the new wheels won't suddenly make you a better rider, but they will do some or all of the following; Carbon wheels will feel better, more direct and more responsive Carbon wheels sound better when they whoosh and zing and tang They will definitely be more aero They will definitely look rad These things or a combination of these things, plus having spent money, may or may not make you feel like a rockstar and motivate you to ride more so you can feel, hear and appreciate the new wheels more, which is the ultimate win If you have the cash, rad. If you don't and you're stretching, don't

IMHO the difference between carbon wheels and alloy wheels makes more of a difference than a carbon vs alloy frame. Carbon wheels will be an upgrade from an alloy set. Alloy set to alloy set not so worth it. I've seen a few sets in the classifieds worth buying at less than 10k Keep the alloy wheels with gravel tires and wider cassette for gravel bashing and the carbon wheels with close shift cassette and 28mm tires for the road!

Good luck I have found in the past that the 70zar is far easier than getting 4 people, their signed forms, pictures and/or old cards together in one place at a similar time. It's like herding kittens unless someone is willing to really take the lead and do everything. Maybe you will be have better luck!

I think you need to drop it off at the bike park uitsig and they then make bundles. This costs a R70 admin fee. I don't think the office at Sanparks assists in giving you a discount?

20mm won't change anything much, but 40mm it starts becoming a compromise. An older than now but more modern than then frame is a better investment. Good luck!

The issue comes with raising the BB and slackening the seat angle To be fair, the reality of all of this is that you're probably better off just buying an old Pyga 120mm frame and fork https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/dual-suspension-mountain-bike-frames/418813/pyga120650-frame-rockshox-fork-custom-paint for not much more money than you would have parted with for a fork. I have run one of these with 26" wheels. It was pretty fun. You can then switch out the wheels at a later date. BUT, this is just me. The old XC angles on those Anthems are aggressive. These Pygas were ahead of their time

No man, you wouldn't use a 10 speed shifter with a 9 speed cassette! I had Ultegra 10 speed STIs and an XT 9 speed RD with an 11-40 10 speed cassette and it worked like a dream

On that, you can run a 9 speed Shimano MTB rd with 10 speed shimano STIs and it works beautifully