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/violent heaving sounds
11 minutes ago, PjT said:So this is interesting....they refined/redesigned the Merida 120
I very much liked the previous design with the rear shock upright like the Giant Trance and Scott Spark....funny how one's perception is.
It looked a lot more like a fun/trail bike.
Now the shock is underneath the top tube, which looks too much like a XC bike instead of a Trail bike.
https://www.merida-bikes.com/en-gb/p/product-news-bikes/the-new-one-twenty-630.html
Looks much more XC than the bigger cousins but looks are just looks.
Good points are 34.9mm seatpost and 170mm cranks ( although 165 would be cooler )
14 minutes ago, Shebeen said:extra utility mount = bottle cage, or something else?
Good Place for a handpump , or one of those utility boksies
8 minutes ago, MORNE said:Ive found all the bits between two or 3 online stores here in the cape, which tells me that silly aircon business must have brought some in at some stage
Aircon business LOL
I'm going to remember that for longggggg🤣
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11 minutes ago, MORNE said:Like those who dont know that sram transmission (shifting) is basically linkglide but in AXS format 😅. Still they’ll want GX mechanical though because marketing. Im with @BaGearA, my next groupo on my big bike will be xt linkglide (if i can find some ofcourse)
Same , gona eek out another two chains on my gx then its back to 11.
Also dreading actually finding it
8 minutes ago, Chadvdw67 said:Really nice looking bike, but I would prefer to have mechanical GX and Code RSC brakes on the Elite model, and maybe a 200mm rotor up front, doing that they could even drop the price a little, brakes and suspension are far more important than drivetrain on this kind of bike, in my opinion atleast
Shimano linkglide 11 with some proper brakes and this bike will sell like hot cakes.
2 minutes ago, 117 said:It depends on what cable fittings the Bikeyoke needs compared to the RS. As an example: The Xfusion needs the cut end to be on the dropper fixed to it with a grub barrel. The Lyne is the other way around with the lug end on the dropper and the cut end on the remote.
The Xfusion is a pain in the rear end to get the lengths correct because of the cut end being where it is. The lyne is almost fit and not have to worry about removing it multiple times to get the length correct - win for the Lyne here
Bike yoke is liek the lyne in this aspect
It also has a graphic at the bottom of the post that you use to get an idea of the exposed cable required.
11 minutes ago, Bundu Ric said:So then should I just buy a Bikeyoke?
Can I use the Rockshox controls with the Bikeyoke or do they have their own specific controls?
Bikeyoke just uses a cable remote to activate so nearly any dropper remote works with them.
No none of the working parts are interchangeable.
Unfortunately it needs to go the CPT yes for it to be serviced by the agents unless you opt for one of the suspension guy sup north ( where I'm assuming you are ? )
The reverb is an over engineered piece of garbage , that harsh but it is.
If you service it within the intervals it'll give years of good performance , but only if you stick to the maintenance schedule.
Sorry I don't have anything more constructive to say but I've rebuilt maybe around 20 myself and its a shite show
Cartridge droppers are better in terms of reliability ( especially if you don't maintain them )
EG Lyne , One up , Bontrager , Transx
There are some very good hydraulic posts that are slightly ( ever so ) more reliable than the reverb , like the fox transfer but I put it in the same class as the reverb.
Then there's the grand daddy ... Bikeyoke ( similar idea inside as the reverb , but super reliable and has the ability to be bled on the bike by the user ) its service intervals are also way longer.
Lets say the hub is a write off without x part being available
If there are no other hubs available + The Rim has cracks around the spokes holes + Being Old
Then with a new spokes , nipples , tape and the labour 8k is not far off some mid ally stuff
Lots of info + pictures would help a great deal
2 minutes ago, thebob said:Hi There
Is there any way to view favourite ads that may have expired, but have not been delisted? I've had my eye on something for a while and would like to make a move on it, but have not been notified that it has been sold. I'm hoping it is just expired and still available, if I could at least make contact with the seller to confirm, it would be a big help
Try searching for what you can remember in google and ad bikehub at the end
If it was deleted then AFAIK you can't view cause its not in the database anymore
55 minutes ago, MORNE said:https://www.summitbikes.co.za/index.php?id_product=1740&controller=product
grab em while they are hot. Garenteed to be the cheapest set you’ll find in store😅
Quite a substantial set of things though. If you consider the rotors around 1k each and you get 4 in the box, including adaptors etc, i guess the price isn't too hectic. At least not Dominic’s. You’ll pay 5k more at other stores soon lol. Pitty it’s the pikey red though.
Brakes , rotors ( incl options ) , adapters + Bleed kit
Seems like a freaking bargain to me
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1 hour ago, michaelbiker said:Forgive me if this is a stupid question but why don’t we need to replace the oil in our car brakes every year like it’s recommended on DOT oil bicycle brakes? Is this a requirement on motorcycles too?
We should.
6 minutes ago, DieselnDust said:Not sure what ls going on here in bold. Very confusing. I think you mean mineral. DoT absorbs water but its reflux boiling point is still much higher than mineral or water. Think of engine coolant, ethylene glycol, it raises the waters boiling point to prevent overheating and pump cavitation. DoT has a similar property. Mineral has to do the same but it’s not as good at it
I worded it like dog crap sorry , I meant if a significant amount of water has been absorbed then that will boil long before the oil it self and steam will rise to the lever and displace the oil giving a lever pull of nothing.
Hope that makes sense ?
38 minutes ago, NotSoBigBen said:Hence my question, I have more than one brake set that has not been bled since the year dot and still work fine. Bearing in mind I only have from the 'other' manufacturer and notwithstanding the fact I clearly don't stress them to that point!
Even if your bike stands dead still
I would still flush the brakes once a year , maybe that's total overkill but I do my own maintenance and I find it calming.
I also have never had issues relating to the fluid itself while riding.
What headshot says about the sram brakes peeling their paint , I have also unfortunately seen that and the guide piston story aswell. Atleast its been recognized and fixed
14 minutes ago, NotSoBigBen said:Genuine question @DieselnDust and other techies, other than maybe downhillers, extreme riders and proper XC riders, should any of us average Joe riders concern ourselves with boiling fluids?
Boling water can hurt so stay away from that one.
Mineral oil , bad for the system and oil. Flush asap but you still have some decent working service out of the brakes.
Dot , very bad. Because it absorbs water and if it has already then the steam will rise to the top ( your lever ) because it has a boiling point so much lower than the dot and suddenly there will be jack out of your lever , as in nothing.
The above scenarios are super hard to create , even if your brake oil is more than 10 years old. SO don't stress about it too much , regular maintenance on a modern system will give heaps of reliability and decent performance be it dot or mineral based.
13 minutes ago, Shebeen said:(or is that just to look cool?)
100000% THAT
1 hour ago, LazyTrailRider said:Yeah, I love the functionality, but for some reason a new set of Code Ultimates still look nicer to me. This looks very agricultural.
I'd like to rephrase "Take my money!" statement to "Maybe I'll give you my money..." 😆
I've been looking for a word to describe the calipers and dammit "agricultural " is it !😂
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34 minutes ago, MORNE said:finally a reason to consider SRAM brakes...no more DOT brake fluid. I guess half of this could be marketing BS. You obviously then don't NEED brake fluid to make a powerful and consistent brakes. Mineral oil much better for your health, your paint, the environment etc.
Won't say much other than the fluid your brakes uses to achieve a closed hydraulic system shouldn't influence which one you buy.
...or go get rid of your car.
I like em , Props to Sram for always being on the development train.
17 minutes ago, Neil Pretorius said:Hi, is there perhaps someone wanting sell a Cannondale Suspension Link Carbon Scalpel Si 29?
I'm based in Somerset West.
CAll your bike shop , they get one from omnico ( very close to you already )
Haven't nearly all the pro's that tried 27.5 rear's revert back since like 2 years ago already ? Even the shorties like hart is on full 29er afaik.
Debate what you want gwin would looi me on a 26er from 2001 even if i was on an ebike
41 minutes ago, MrJacques said:Saw this gap while washing my bike. I recently swapped handlebars and check headset bearings. I'm wondering if I put everything back together correctly. I should take more photos before taking things apart. I took one of the cable routing, but not of this part.
It feels fine, turns freely and there's no knocking. I've also seen photos online of other bikes with the same gap. I'm probably going to take it apart again just to be sure.
You very likely have a cane creek crown race which has a very high stack.
I think its just holding your bearing a fair way up and that's creating this kind of gap you see there.
45 minutes ago, OVERDRIVE said:Pretoria is more dangerous than I thought😳
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C19OXCipyUH/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Sorry ne , I HIGHLY doubt that's even SA unless its transkei or something
Spank VS Stans rims
in Technical Q&A
Posted
Wasn't there a post on Bikehub just the other day f an MK4 doing the same ?
Trying to find it but