wonduhboy

I was cleaning my anthem X1 2009 this week and noticed that my saddle is cracked. Do you think this will be covered by warranty? Even though my bike is almost 2 yrs old? I'm sure I remember reading something about some fizik saddles that cracked... Or am I on crack?

Thug, how much is membership at Northcliff H&R?

I have one, and it does (did?) have issues. have a look on the garmin forums - https://forums.garmin.com/forumdisplay.php?f=20 having said that, the problems didn't make the unit unusable, just frustrating at times they have since released a new FW, which supposedly fixes all the previous problems, and according to feedback on the forums, looks like it works. I've only done 1 ride with the latest FW, so cant comment, but nothing went wrong. I also love gadgets and this one is pretty sweet

I've got the same wheels, done less Kms, and my wheels look the same. and I'm in JHB...

yip, you can map a route on mapmyride.com, apply an avg time to 'race' against, then upload it. I think you can also do the same with a course you have recorded on the unit. Just be aware of the teething issues (check the garmin forums) , the 500 hangs sometimes and some data files bomb out when uploading. I got mine from easygis.co.za - look for the banner on this site. Couldn't wait for CRC and wanted the local warranty on a new product like this as well. Great service from easygis as well.

google the review from dcrainmaker - it's a fantastic review. I moved from a s725x to the garmin, and although there are teething problems (check the garmin forums) I'm enjoying the switch. I also think your decision will be based on what you need from the unit - check them both out and then decide.

First thing I'd do is update the firmware straight out of the box. Next thing is download Sports track 2.0 (ST2) and some of the plugins as well - 'Elevation correction' is pretty cool. You'll need to use Garmin training centre or garmin connect to download your ride data (edge 500 doesn't work on ST2, because of data format) but you can then export this into ST2. I also suggest setting elevation points as well - where you start your ride is a good idea. I'm still learning, so anything else that anyone can share would be cool.

Thanks for all the comments. I also thought they looked a bit funny, but they flat tops are parallel to the ground. I think the shifters give them a downward look, because they cant move up the bars too much more (downside of flat-tops) I cannot express enough how rewarding it is buying a bike piece-by-piece and building it yourself. I've learnt so much, and although I'm sure things will need adjusting, I dont this it's too bad.

some more pics: Almost everything on: and finally, the finished project: and more angles

Yip, the groupset is fantastically good looking, and in person they are even better. They've used CF for the most part, but it doesn't have the "layered" look to it.

I had to share some pics of my project. First time I am building a bike piece-by-piece and doing all the work myself... the frame... and another angle what I am fitting it with: and rolling on: first part of the build: Last night, I did the crankset as well, but cellphone pic doesn't do the sexiness justice: I'll post some more pics as I go

JHD, I'm pretty sure mine is fine. tell me where to measure (pics/diagrams are great ) and I'll let you know... Otherwise, contact 'ghostface' on here, I think he works for the giant distributors (or pm me for his contact details). He's helped me out lots before and responds quickly

some guys will say the bigger it is, the more junk you will carry with you... I've got a 2l one which holds everything you should need for a 3-5 hour ride. But what are you using it for? 2 hour rides or epic/Sani2c stage 2 type stuff?

i know they're compatible, but they wont 'go' - would you put slicks on your full-susser... ???

thanks for all the great advice about cars fortunately I am building up a bike... Anyway, I heard the double-tap system is intuitive, but does it work well. Also, need to bear in mind what wheels I will put on - obviously if I go with Force, shimano wheels are out - what else would look good on this - easton ea90slx maybe?

I'm building up a bike and need to choose between these two. I like ultegra because it's tried and tested, you know it wont let you down... but: The sram force 2010 just looks so sweet. and not everyone has it. So, with the price difference being so small (Force only R500-odd cheaper) which do I go for. Any opinions? PS - first person to say anything about campy, gets a size 11 foot up their smack

well well well. I cant believe this... Called EMS, answered on the second ring, gave them parcel force tracking number, 'yes sir, its being delivered today, here's your tracking number' The parcel only arrived yesterday morning at EMS, and should be delivered to me today? surely not...

thanks for the replies, will call them

my parcel is at the Joburg INT mail centre - how long till I get it more/less?

I've got the stock wheels that came on an anthemX, 819 rims, dt swiss (370, I think) hubs - they seem bullet proof to me. but the xt wheels would look sweet on my frame...

i might also join. hopefully no rain

ngala, do you know what the charge is on sunglasses?

Step 1 is a "grating" sound which I assume is the tyre deforming to the point of complaining.... Step 2 is a loud pop as the tyre and rim get divorced rapidly followed by you and your bike getting covered in sealant...crashing depends on a fine combination of luck and skill. My recommendation (for tubeless only) is start at about 2.5 bar and reduce pressure until you the first time you hear the "grating" noise - add 0.1 bar and that should be your tyre pressure. Add maybe 0.2-0.3 bar more if you do a very rocky race... Oh - if you're still running tubes then you'll soon learn that your pressure is too low because snakes start biting your tubes sounds like fun, I'll avoid the divorce proceedings... I'm heavier than you racing snakes, so I guess I'll start at about 3-3.5 and try from there.