RobertWhitehead

No clue, I had quite a bit going on since I originally found out and actually forgot about it .

So something I've picked up recently, very sneaky from the guys in blue and gold to say the least: I have been with them for quite a few years and recently whenever I will claim the number R10 000.00 gets mentioned a few times. Earlier this year in May I claimed for my Wahoo Kickr 5 (around R25k to replace) and again they only paid out R10 000.00 - the co-payment. Turns out, don't know exactly when this happened but my policy covers up to the value of R10k and if I want higher cover it is an additional cost to upgrade my plan. This means that everything that has been specified on my policy (for which I am paying individually) will only be paid out to the value of R10k (if I understand the consultant correctly). Just a side note, this was not always the case. I claimed for an inverter back in 2021 and they paid out the full amount (roughly R20k) My point: just confirm that the above mentioned does not apply to your policy as well and that this has been a blanket change to all policy holders

You know what this means for all the old logo bikes?

Mine is a true Franken-bike, I can't find a kiekie now but it is a Schwinn Fastback road frame with a wider carbon fork some sweet Mavic road wheels with 38c gravel tires a flat bar and a 2x10 set up. Mtb 11/36T at the back with a road 39/52T in the front. Flat bars, mtb shifters, child seat and a number plate 3D printed by a fellow hubber "Café Racer" .

My opinion: Don't get too bogged down with Microspline and XD. Go with Sunrace or Sunshine or even NX normal HG (Hyper Glyde). You will find that the normal HG 12 speed hubs are cheaper than the XD and Microspline and give you acceptable or even more than acceptable km's. The moment you go with Micro spline and XD you're kinda stuck and have to pay whatever the big mogul wants to charge you

Run the PC1110 on the 10 speed. Those PC chains are normally 114 L and does not work great on an 11 speed 😁. Send me a DM and I will gift you a 10 speed rear mech

Mine is new and free .

What does the sealed bearing look like, maybe I have something

Not to come across like a box Nick but you mentioned that you're busy with a wheel build, therefore the BOOST part sits with the hubs and doesn't matter .

American Classic is lighter than Stans .

I use my watch in conjunction with Fulgaz and it syncs with vitality, syncing through Zwift will give you issues

I am sure a longer screw will create enough clearance

I am struggling or slow or lazy for not reading the post from 3 years ago. But anyway, is this issue on a road or mtb and how many gears? What throws me is the 11/32 which makes me think that it is a road bike but then you mention that you cannot get the wheel to seal. So is the query the fact that the rear mech doesn't want to go all the way to 32t?

Head to your LBS and ask them to give you one. They normally offer one for free

I just specify the unit under my insurance and if / when it breaks I claim through them, why go through the hassle of dealing with a supplier

Have you tried replacing the rotors?

This has made me think, I mean if you get on a bike and you're comfortable, push proper watts and do not hurt yourself with a saddle that's too high/low then what value will be gained by going to an outsider for 45-60min? Please don't get me wrong, I do see a fitters value and or place in society, I mean if a complete noob with lots of cash goes and buys the latest and greatest then a fitment definitely adds value. But, will it add value to force someone who's been riding for years into a different position by making changes to their setup? Yes one can argue that long term you're going to see the benefits because your riding style / cockpit is set up optimally but what about the short term? Let's say a fitter adjusts a setup and that person goes and does a race or just a 100km ride and gets an injury or other muscles groups are now working and he / she finishes 30min slower. Does he / she attribute the injury / poor performance to the snake oil still having to do it's magic or does he / she revert back to what worked? My money is on the latter.

So here's my opinion based on my own experience: A bike fitment from a bike fitter doesn't add too much value. I have had a few fitments in the past and found that the only difference between their findings and what this website gives: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp is that the tolerances are smaller with a fitter and they charge for something you can find freely on the interwebs . But work on your flexibility and core

Last year we were walking around with t-shirts at registration (Friday). Saturday morning at 03:00 the wind started to pick up and the rest was a mess . I did not even bother to go past the 5km mark. My one partner had a Trek Procal (4 months old) and both stays were cracked from all the mud. In 2019 I rode all the way to CP#5 with only a gillet and arm warmers. It only started to get nippy at "the pakhuis". Hope it is a great ride ya'll

Feedback from my exploits: This morning I decided to do what any self respecting mechanic would do. I chucked the problem lever and went out and bought a shiny new set . Just joking, here's what I did, I am sure that I did not have to go through everything I did but then again I like doing things properly 😁. 1) I drained all the mineral oil 2) I then stripped the whole lever to the bone (as per the instruction from @Meezo). 3) I left all the bits from the lever to soak in a bath of cleaner and then moved over to soak the caliper. 4) Because the lever are almost new I did not sand it down as it was still very smooth after the bath 5) I assembled, pushed new fluid through the system and Bob is some scary uncle, sorted. Thank you very much for the assistance, it is sorted

I use Fulgaz with the Apple TV, works quite well after they went through lots of new releases

It is from the devil I tell you

I saw that yes, I actually still have the link. Ok, let me try yours and Francois. I will give feedback. Thank you very much

I have the weirdest scenario I have ever experienced. Let me paint the picture: I receive a bike with a set of SLX M666 brake levers in perfect working condition, almost new. 1) I decide to remove them from said bike and add them to a more appropriate build, due to it being internally routed I have to cut the hose. 2) Caliper is fitted with a Banjo and not a olive and ferral like some. No problem, I have some after market banjos that fit onto the hose by means of a locknut - I have used it in the past without any issues 3) I make the change and proceed to bleed the brake. Nothing, nada, niks. The brake remains flat. I then open the lever and inspect for leaks, in good condition. I swop the lever with another one which also works and is in great condition - nothing, nada, niks. I swop the caliper, nothing, nada, niks I then swop the hose with a factory hose and fit a olive and ferral at the lever side, nothing, nada, niks. I then swop the lever back, nothing, nada, niks . I am completely stumped

No worries about overhanging trees, just make sure you have enough clearance on the car