RobertWhitehead

This 👆. Try to remove the fixing bolt on the one side and swop the end caps round, i.e. push the thru axle through the wheel from the other side. Chances are that this may resolve the issue

O ok, I can help

Do you have a kiekie of what you're looking for?

Sure thing, balls of sealant I also take out, those suckers can get big

Now you mentioned this, what's the theory for cleaning the old sealant, I've always wondered

As mentioned in one of my earlier posts: if the chain is too short and you ride in the granny gear a lot then the springs inside the rear mech becomes "lazy" (for lack of a better word). Once this happens you will have the scenario you're currently faced with, the gears work on some of the cogs and on others they're rubbish, obviously I can't say that this is the case with certainty, I will only be able to confirm if I have the bike . PS: if you need a 12 speed Shimano rear mech I do have some options for cheaper than the LBS

"Maneuverable at the back"? I'm confused. If I want to increase the maneuverability of my bike I get up out of the saddle

My first point of call would be to screw in the B-screw to remove the slack on the chain. If this does not work I will look into the cable and other tension and then move into shortening the chain and then look into freehub etc etc.

Fantastic, thank you very much. I can also arrange a courier to collect 👍

Well in their defense: both items are round

I normally make contact with Elmarie: elmarie@ecobound.co.za

I have one question: does Bike Addict have stock

I personally would not suggest a dual, my reason for making this statement: First few weeks go by after a lot of riding, and I see my chain, brake rotors, rims, spokes and derailleur are rusting. The rust you've observed, is it surface rust or actual pitting? Duals requires more upkeep than HTs and unfortunately someone has to maintain them. If components are allowed to rust under your watch then you're not doing enough to take care of your bike.

I've used Rs components in Midrand before, https://za.rs-online.com/web/c/mechanical-power-transmission/belts-pulleys/timing-belts/?searchTerm=Belt I can't recall which belt but I know @figjam_sahas ordered recently. Just see if there's details on your belt. If not count the number of teeth and measure the width

Skipped

Sure thing, no worries. @117 Mr betaboy will take it off your hands

You're welcome to take it

I am keen on the rotors and bar 😁

You'll get a million opinions and a million reasons to buy and or not to buy. Let me be the first to offer an opinion: This is an entry level bike with entry level components, the riding experience will also be "entry level". The bike will feel somewhat sluggish and heavy but you have to start somewhere. Get some miles on it and when you've learnt a bit more about your likes and dislikes then donate it to a family member or someone who'll use it to commute and get yourself something better. Don't expect to get much for it when one day you decide to move on from it. One thing I can add is that these bikes (the brand) doesn't have much value when trying to resell, if you're looking for something that will hold it value try looking at a more "main stream" brand like Giant, GT, Scott, Merida, Trek. Good luck

I've also been toying with the idea of a gravel build (not to keep - to sell on) and as mentioned before: the moment you go drop bars the price difference can be close to 20k (if you go hydraulic STI - to get the same stopping power as MTB brakes). Also, if you have a look at gravel bikes on the market you will notice that the majority of the frames are road frames. From a geometry point of view it will make a difference. I second / third the suggestion of a flat bar with a rigid fork. I will be bringing in some stock at the end of the month and will be able to gooi in a rigid carbon fork for you

I will be keen to take the frame and wheels off your hands, I will send you a message then we can chat

Thank you @ChrisF, my opinion, please note that you'll have a cazillion opinions, this is mine and by no means the be all and end all There's quite a simple "unwritten rule" I first consider when looking at a bike for the first time: What value did the seller add to the bike during the time that he or she owned it, a gel seat cover and other pedals does not qualify. An upgraded 2nd hand bike with scratches on the frame is way better than a stock standard unblemished 2nd hand one. You want something that will allow further improvements rather than something which will impede that. This is quite a good example: https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/hardtail-mountain-bikes/691791/silverback-full-carbon-m

I won't even feel that on the mtb , o wait it's for the skinny wheels

https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/road-bikes/668537/trek-1200 - found three in the classifieds but this one looks ok

45mm will be fine but I would ditch the 780mm flat and go with a riser, but that's just my opinion