BrendonMyb

you guys kick @ss. 1. Wish i could balance like that on 1 wheel - Does a 150m wheelie count ? 2. dunno who it was at sabie classic earleir in the year, but he whooped my @ss. Dunno how though cause i was much faster on the downhills, like much faster, yet on the uphills there he was passing me again. eish

generally ive seen most forks come with that steerer tube ring on ( not always though/but that can be bought at the LBS & as far as i know one size fits all ) but yes make sure that ring fits your headset bearings just for incase. if im not mistaken most headset bearings are the same in diameter. Its only the headset cups that differ in size to compensate for a thicker/thinner headset tube.

I also forgot, to mention: Check the spacers between your stem & headset. Your steerer tube might be a little longer or shorter. compensate this gap with headset spacers & then of course your brakes but you will also immeadetly notice if there are no front brakes good luck, I promise its not rocket science & if you do it slowly & look where everything comes off, then youll remember where to put it back on. Like i said it shouldnt take you more than a half hour if not shorter

its as easy as falling out the bus..... wish i was in the cape then i could come over & do it for you & show you. It shouldnt take you more than a half hour to do - properly that is. Youll need allen keys & thats pretty much it. * start by undoing your old allen bolt at the top of the steerer tube * then undo the remaining bolts on your stem - that is actually the "clamp" that keeps your stem attached to you steerer tube - your stem should now slide off the top of the steerer tube but make sure your bike isnt hanging up while youre doing this as the old fork will plumet out of the headset & hit the ground with quite a thud & then inevitable damage will occur. * then pull the fork out the bottom but make sure you keep an eye on the way that the bearings are situated on your steerer tube as you will need to put them back exactly the same on your new Toras - while you at it perhaps clean the old grease off your headset bearings & give a new coating of grease * insatll bearings & headset seals on the Toras steerer tube exactly the same way as they came off your old fork * then slide the steerer tube back through the headset from the bottom - also be carefull for the top headset bearings & seals, they need to be in the same order as when you took the old fork out * once the forks is through & the seals & bearings are nicely seated then put the stem back onto the steerer tube * Then using the allen key start tightening the steerer tube allen bolt at the top of the stem also making sure the allen bolt cup is in exactly as you took it off - tightning this bolt secures the fork properly within the headset so that you dont have any "play" - meaning your steerer tube doesnt move around within the headset while riding * then once it is nice & tight you can then align your stem with front wheel to make sure its nice & straight * then tighten the allen bolts on your stem nice & tight so that the stem clamps securely around the steerer tube finally check that there is no play whatsover between the steerer tube & headset - if there is you will need to undo the stem bolts again & tighten the steerer tube allen bolt a little tighter - you can check this by wiglling the bike backawards & forwards while holding the front brake. You will immeadely notice if its loose or not by hearing & feeling a clunk sort of noise as the steerer tube is flexing between the headset. If all thats is done - You are done - then enjoy your new forks

quick question, ive never gone to look for squirt which most seem to recomend here. Can one buy this at any LBS. My specific LBS only stocks Rock n Roll, White lightning & motorex so sorry for my ignorance but where would i find this so that i can go have a look at the texture & quality of this lube before just buy

Nevermind i found it - Im gonna give this a try. okay on 2nd thougths i dont know so much, looking at the pic i see a wax layer down at the bottom, which is what im trying to stay away from. s*#t man, i dont know ? BumpNgrind2009-07-30 02:01:30

Please can someone help me with that name i mentioned earlier - i cant for the life of me remember what its called color of lube is dark, transparent blue has teflon coating propertys aswell as a oily base. Comes in a round seethrough bottle

thanks Johan, I thought as much. I spoke to a guy by the name of graham the other day from Commencal & he showed me a pretty nifty product i think. Its blue in color & has teflon coating propertys ( the name escapes me of the product ) as well as an oil based solution within. I felt the texture rubbing it between my thumb & forefinger & it seems oily enough yet not overkill and making everyhing a collosal mess, then added onto that the teflon coating propertys which in my opinion is always good for rubbing metal surfaces Your analysis of flex/tension within a chain makes perfect sense to me ( capillary action that you mentioned ) & thats exactly where my thoughts lay. think i might try that but i 1st need to get the wax off as any other lube will just run off like water when applied - perhaps some very hot soap water will melt the wax a bit & help in cleaning it ?

I was at G yesterday when i overheard Rynard calling him t llet him know they are back. G kind of gave me an idea of how difficlult this event is. Congrats to the commie boys for such a grueling race, from what i heard "one can suffer quite seriously & its quite a battle", on the other hand though, how rewarding

well the experience you describe is very relative to what ive experienced. I live in PTA east & over the years it has become a rather affluent area it would seem however the attitude has come with the affluency. "Basically if you dont have the bux to spend in my shop then why did you come in" nevermind the ludecrous pricing that they charge. You know what - when i need something i drive 25km to Grants Cycles in centurion because holy crap - they even remember my name & funny thing is i dont go in to a shop very often as i pretty mych fix, tweak my own bike & even do my own fork services etc etc etc. Soooooo a big up to Grants cycles, I love you guys, your pricing is good to me & leon & Grant always gives sound advise & your always out to help me & go the extra mile no matter what & still with a smile on your face after a long day on your feet Ive run in after a crash as they were locking up one saturday, instead of saying we are closed, they opened the shop just for me opened the till after cashing up, then cashed up again after i left. Now i dont know any other LBS in my area doing that sort of thing. Pretty much they can learn a thing or three from a shop a quarter their size. + added onto that Grants is willing to negotiate pricing if they see your running intoa bit of a cash flow probbie to at least help you be able to afford what your looking for ( obviously not wild/stupid discounts ) but out to help you none the less in a big way so there you have my idea of a bike shop. Id rather drive a half hour & get awesome service than get the cold shoulder effect from LBS's in the PTA east area

i seriously need to invest in some pepper spray. I do however if im riding alone ride with a pistol pellet gun. bout the size of a walter PPK & it does hurt trust you me, ive nabbed one trying to break into the house with it & performed like squeeliing pig

hmmmm thats what i thought too thanks anyway

Ive heard of a couple of people using spray n cook as a wet lube - Is this a common practice & how well does it work do you think ?, i havent tried it yet - little paranoid of destroying my cassette, derailer pulley wheels chainwheel & blah blah blah

as far as im aware in my scenario holdfast is a south african product & i think they are manufactured in cape town. Just check their website if you might be interested. like i said i cant complain about my bike rack but on the other hand i think if i had the extra money back then i probaly would also have gone for thule - I still maintain they are ripping the public off though but hey thats just me

you know what, i got a boot strap clip on made by holdfast & cost not even a 3rd of thules price. Both my wheels also stay on the bike & uses almost the same clips to fasten the bike to the top tube as Thules. IMO this is a much better option for the price i paid. thule does make nice racks - im not even gonna lie but they are highway robbery with their prices If you want photies, ill have to take tommorrow as couple of friends & myself will be out for a ride at groenkloof perhaps

id say the wheelset - that is the most expensive & depending on what you have, could shed about a 1000g but then you are looking at some serious wheels to cut that amount of weight PS: im basing this on what i have. Im looking at some or another stage upgrading my wheels to american classics & currently i have alex rims. Im not heavy at all 56kg so bulking up would be more of an option for me but light bike + light rider = faster riding or at least so ive tricked myself into thinking. Im still slower than most of my freinds & my HT is now weighing in at 11.1 when i change the wheels it will come down to +-10

nice ride - you look fairly tall though

&&&&&& soooooooo when will the build be complete ?

Ill save the hijacker so that he can kill the bank manager & then it will all be off my hands as he committed the crime & 10 to 1 will either run away or get caught with another botched attempt at a hijacking

okay tell you what, to stop all of this nonsense that ive created here !! Ill start riding on the right side of the road & stop being such an idiot & give that a try for a change. Ive never come across any of the dangerous scenarious you guys mention in all the time ive cycled but let me give the correct way of riding a go

hurt ?? far from it..... Im trying in the most constructive way possible to explain why i dont ride on the left of the road as one should & is meant to. My personal experiences have been pleasant over the years ive been riding & other cyclists have always greeted me without snyde remarks. I also have to admit i do cross over if it does become narrow & dangerous to oncoming traffic ie: cars or cyclists but my route is generally pretty wide hence the reason i do what i do because im able to do it. I will also do it only if there is sufficient space to do it ie: pedestrians or for that matter other cyclists included in the lane im in. Willehond: No it is not a new thing here in SA of riding on the opposite side. Generally most people abide by it. I guess the reason i do it is because i have a phobia of being hit from behind. I wanna see whats gonna hit me if it does