100Tours

I've had an issue where the head of the shift cable jams inside the housing on the 105 version of this shifter. Take shifter off bike, remove rubber hood, unscrew inspection cover thing, get cable unstuck and remove cable. Bingo it works again. Shift down to smallest gear to get the cable back in and try not to get it stuck this time.

Personally never needed one until I went for a ride in really muddy conditions. Lots of mud made the chain less flexible, and selection of an inner gear would then throw the chain off hte front ring. I put on a chain guide after than and I've kept it. But I'd agree with the assessment above. Probably don't need to go there unless you're having issues.

I have been quite successful with a drill/dremel and a handful of rivnuts. - A repair-oriented bike shop should have rivnuts for you for a few rond - dremel/drill 7mm hole in the tube - use an old hub and skewer to install the rivnut (thread the nut onto the skewer, use the lever to seat it in the hole - like a rivet gun) The tricky part is making sure they are straight. My method is to use the dremel to mark the tube, check alignment, small 3mm drill using the dremel mark, check alignment again, then a 7mm hole.

Must have been a real a-ha moment when they decided to have different offsets for other wheel sizes too 😁

These days I use 2 tapes, particularly for road or gravel setups. Cheap-ish rim tape on the inside and electrical tape on the top. works a charm.

diagram below helps understand. increasing the offset moves the tire patch forward, increases the wheelbase, and shortens trail. Not intuitive at all. Increasing the fork length lifts the head tube (slacker angle), and increases trail again. Apparently the 'ideal' trail is something like 57mm Edit - 150mm is a lot of travel. probably worth having a look at the geometry before you change the fork? Shorter travel will also reduce the trail. If you end up with a number outside of 50mm-63mm you're probably too far off of reasonable numbers

I'm sure the experts will weigh in.. but it is hard to really know until you measure the trail for the new geometry. Also with a bigger offset you are reducing trail so your handling will be a bit more aggressive. Trail is the distance on the ground between a plumb line through the front axle vs. the line of the steerer tube. if that makes sense I think I contradicted the previous reply.. but greater offset does not mean greater trail.

Put the route on stava - QR code takes you to the map with your phone?

More aero too without it. And at least you can always use your foot on the back wheel 😗

I bought a second hand Garmin 520 a number of years ago. Worked well, eventually the battery got old, and Garmin replaced it with a new 520+ unit for a few R100's. Had that for about 4 years and I smashed it by mistake when closing my boot lid. They replaced that for about R1000 with a Garmin 530. Great device, and their replacement program means that as long as you have the remains of the old one you should have it for life.

yes - about 5000km on the tyres according to Strava

reviving this thread - The biggest challenge (for me) in road tubeless has been the un-learning of all my MTB tubeless bad habits - road/gravel tubeless has been a lot more awkward and expensive than the MTB route. I have settled on an inexpensive taping solution that now seems to be working for me (currently have 4x 700c tubeless wheelsets in the house, so I get lots of practice). Probably still looking for the 'right' sealant, although I feel like I've made some progress. For taping I have adopted the approach from 'Syd fixes bikes' - a 2-tape solution. Basically most tubeless tapes are quite inflexible to be able to deal with the high pressures, and so they don't easily conform to the narrower 700c rims. This was never really a problem on MTB rims, but it has been problematic on the road. Solved using a no-name tubeless rim tape (R250 for 60m, which should do 10 wheels), and then finished off with electrical tape. The electrical tape helps the underlying tape fit the rim more snugly and also helps the tyre beads seat better (i.e. they slide easily into place on the taped surface). win. For the sealant the latex based options just do not work for me. They are expensive, they spray a lot of messy fluid if you puncture, and they need a fair amount of maintenance to prevent balling up. Even considering shaving my legs again so that I don't have to deal with latex leg hairs as a result of fixing other people's punctures. I've been having more luck with the glycol based sealants (which can be washed out), and they're often cheaper too - Ryder or Sludge for R50 a bottle/2 wheels works just fine, and lasts a good 3 months before topping up.

I wouldn't shim the handlebar - chances are you will feel the bar moving in the stem clamp while riding. There's a lot of force that goes through that clamp.

CWC had GP5000TL on special for R1800 a pair last year - but looks like they're out now. Cycle Lab has them at R999 (if you buy 2) Product Details| CycleLab They have been pretty good although I would like it if they lasted more than a year's riding - seems to be about their life.

thicker socks? seriously, the pedal seems like a likely culprit.

If (hypothetically) you spot some hot hookup on TINDR do you open with 'Are you still single'..

That drive belt is wild. And a shaft-drive on the cranks Why does it have no brakes though? seems like a back pedal brake at maybe 45kph wouldn't be a great idea. Edit - If I had one of these I would want to ride it in a lone ranger mask and a cape and use it to take the local Strava KOMS 🤣

Very difficult to find the Hydraulic/disk options at the moment. I bought from my lbs a month ago or so and it was their last set of any range. Ebay is worth a go - takes a few weeks, but has always been reliable. Also look at Di2 options. Often better availability than the manual choices.

I have found that if you start your ride with the Garmin in your back pocket, and then move it up to the handlebars while riding then you can gain free distance. You can also do this on your favourite segment to improve your time. The benefits are maximised if you use an out front mount. Marginal Gains. 👽 EDIT: if you want free vertical m's then you should mount the GPS on your shoe 💯

Where do I find a 27.2-to-31.6 seatpost shim? happy to buy I am wanting to try an elastomer insert seatpost on a gravel build

headset bearings are angular contact bearings - you won't find them from a non-cycling source. i.e. it's your LBS or nothing.. You might have some luck trying a bike shop with a big store room - e.g. Westdene or Northcliff in Joburg who might be able to find you some old stock in the store room.

I have heaps of spacers - good chance I'll have it if you can measure it up

They don't call it Pudding Man..

Now go downhill?

In their defense at least they used ALL CAPS. I think that makes it universally understandable ????