JXV

Ok got it sorted now.....forgot to switch the app off in the background before retrying.....

I still can't access the forums via Tapatalk. Android Lollipop on S5. Have uninstalled and re-installed tapatalk etc no joy. Any advice?

If they keep changing up or down under power the RD pivots may be worn. If you are powering and the RD tries to change, the chain can slip when it shifts. Make sure the RD hanger is not bent and the RD pivots are not loose, then set RD adjustment. Maybe also lube the RD (and wipe off excess) and consider a new cable. If the gear teeth are slipping under power, but staying in the same gear, this is a separate problem caused by worn gears and/or chain. It can also appear when you fit a new chain to worn gears. The cure is a new cassette if you can't find replacements for the worn gears.

Just put your 3x10 in the middle ring or big ring as you prefer and stop using the front shifter.... It's Free On my 2x10 29er I bought a 34t NW, a 42T extender and a 16T to replace the 15t and 17t on my existing XT cassette. Got all the stuff from Kalbo for under R1.5k and it included spacer washers which were needed to sort the chainline. I also needed to get some longer chainring bolts but if you are on 3x10 you will already have these (they hold your middle and big ring on the crank) and you may not need the spacers. You should be able to fit the NW chainring on the middle position of your 3x crank but I have not converted a 3x before....dunno if there are issues. You will need a cassette where the smaller rings can be separated, so you can toss out the 15t and 17t and replace with a 16t....on some of the lower priced cassettes the smaller rings are pinned together so budget for an XT cassette if your 15t and 17t cannot be separated.

I get this too. Deleted the old account from tapatalk and searched for "bikehub"...no go. It finds the old site but can't log in. Logged out of Tapatalk, rebooted phone, logged in again....still not working

Was a lot more 10 years back when I got mine. For R400 dont even hesitate. If possible get 1 stop and 2 stop soft grad filters and make sure the adapter ring will fit your lens Soft grads have a more gradual transition that suits more applications. Hard grad is limited to well defined (straight line) transitions like ocean horizons.

Is what I use. Modern equivalent of the now deceased Cokin brand. Not the best but good enough. Be very careful as the plastic filters are easily scratched.

Roger is quite efficient on LR. I attended one of his courses. I prefer my grad filters and getting it all done when the shutter is pressed.

I'm a Nikon guy so my Canon advice is dubious. To get light trails with flash usually you set trailing shutter flash control and use ambient light to generate a blurred image leading to the sharp (flash lit) image at the end. This needs longish shutter speeds and fixed ISO. The camera calculates the light received during initial exposure so it knows how much flash to add at end. In some exposure modes this may not work. If you have Auto ISO or red-eye reduction enabled it may deselect the trailing shutter flash option. Read the manual regarding trailing shutter flash....it will outline any restrictions. I don't think it is a Canon/Sigma issue but it could be.

Lightroom has just about all you'll need for photo editing. No need to go the extra mile for full PS

eish - that's a whole R200k of camera and lens he is clowning with there!

This pic lacks a compelling main subject or area of interest. Those mountain peaks in layers of haze on the left centre look interesting so it would help to zoom in on those a bit. leaving some of the sky and some of the foreground yellow flowers. you can throw most of the right hand third of the pic away....and the dark strip at the bottom. modern dslrs have so many pixels that you can probably just crop the existing image to emphasize the area of interest and still have enough pixels for a decent quality image. Try the rule of thirds with horizons next time. Choose to shoot for the sky or the foreground and position your horizon lower or higher in the pic - just not dead centre - this way it tends to look more attractive to the average person. Of course rules of thumb are made to be broken and typically when shooting landscapes with foreground reflections on water (e.g. over a mirror calm lake) then central horizon can be useful 'cos it adds symmettry.

Custom purple decals on that Fox 36 and the rims would round it off nicely

Both have 6 moving pivots if you include the shock mounting eyes.

Also interested....looking for a build project....will contact u later

Done. Tks [emoji106]

SRAM 1x with 10-42 cassette = 420% rangeShimano 1x with 11-42 = 382% 2x10 XT with 11-36 cassette and 38-24 up front = 518%. It gives 2 lower granny ratios and at least 1 higher top end ratio The new M8000 XT 2x11 has a 11-40 cassette but only 10t difference on the chainrings as standard. This offers 503% but with more gears so the steps are smaller. I'm sure a 12t or even 14t combo could be made to work with the long cage RD...this would take the range up to 570% getting close to 3x systems.

Yes. mine is 34 Factory FIT CTD with trail adjust and Kashima coat Quite a mouthful

The 2014 version Factory CTD on my bike IS a very viable trail fork - just not best of breed. When I bought my bike early last year the Pike sadly wasn't available on it at that stage ( TB LTc ). Still very happy with it but the 2 main issues for me are the weight and the lack of adjustments in the range where I want them. The small bump plushness issue is very minor to me as it just gets better and better the faster you go - when I really need it to work on rough stuff at pace, it works well.

Ja rightly or wrongly many reviewers are comparing the new Fox 34 forks to the Pike which has been the benchmark since it came out. I ride the older 34 and must say it is not all that plush for small bump and low speed but it has impressed me at higher speeds. I ride it mostly in the softest setting on Trail or fully open (Descend) so I think the CTD system offers adjustability in the wrong places.... The new fork has self adjusting air negative instead of coil negative spring....this will improve the fit to riders of differing weights as a coil negative is really only optimum for one weight...will improve 'butteriness'[emoji48] CTD has now become Firm/Med/Open and all the compression adjustment is in the Open range now - this should be a lot more versatile than the old Trail-adjust dial....and somewhat similar to Pike RCT3 controls. It is also around 200g lighter than before - most welcome.

Agree about the 32mm forks....especially with long travel...but 1x10/1x11 is not for everyone. Been riding XT converted to 1x10 with a 42t expander and 34t NW for about 8 months now: It works well and I like it on prepared trails. It is light, simple and quiet. Don't like it on unprepared trail, high altitudes and longer rides with lemgths of road in them because : Spin out at speed, bigger gaps from 13t to 16t to 19t, less granny when its real steep. Will be going back to 2x10 shortly for a re-think. Bear in mind the Hub concentrates all the serious enthusiasts who are most likely fitter and stronger on average than the mass of average cyclists who hold the buying power.....so our collective enthusiasm for 1x drivetrains may not actually be the best solution for the bulk of cyclists.

Raptor 22 there other reviews of this new fork that mention similar improvements in the feel and riding experience. Not sure why you are taking Iwan on about his review. Your 'butter' comment borders on sarcasm and the latest one suggests that the reviewer wrote the review without actually riding the fork.

Converting 2x10 XT to 1x10 XT saves about 400g.

You can buy a One-up 45t. It would go nicely with the 11-40 cassette

Love the BSK and the backlit cheetah.