mazambaan

Someone can probably do it better than me and add more detail but the dog Johan Borman spake thus "thou shalt not measure chain using the devils invention chain checker but verily use the humble tape measure".

Very good interview with Alan and he did keep a cool head after committing a few thoughtless errors; pushing on off piste (easy to do - I know this). I don't know that area but do know that you can get lost very, very quickly. In Lesotho there are so many ridges, mountains and valleys that it is easy to lose track and there is always something in between what looks like an easy walk. The bushveld is obviously different, no high ground, meandering tracks and, to many of "us", featureless, no water and very hot. Without local guides I, and a few of us, would have been in deep trouble in N Namibia/Angola. A jaunt in the Namib dunes makes one keep the guide very firmly in sight all the time. What to carry; not flares I think; they expire and not sure what rubbing and rattling in an mrb bag would do to them. I always have a space blanket (I have spent a few nights with one in Lesotho; it doesn't help as much as one would like ☺️ but better than nothing), one energy bar minimum, CD for a mirror, will check for a lighter (I usually have one) and a few other things (thermal top and light rain jacket if in Lesotho). There have been threads with good lists and the adventure racers rule but they are not mere mortals. What you do have, guard with your life. Great advice on the mapping apps etc for a phone and Garmin InReach is calling but expensive and I am not taking the risks I used to.

Good news and very well spotted from the air. Garmin InReach is calling me.

Getting off topic here but on those old big single two strokes 500's, hard running was best done with a bit of choke for more fuel otherwise the thing would give a few warning pings then pick up or just seize. Never happened to me but others. I always though running expensive oil (Bel Ray) at exactly what was specified helped; more oil is not your friend surprisingly, to me anyway.

Maybe RS Components but keep a firm grip on your credit card; bad things have been known to happen when perusing their website.

A reboot of the system and, on the downhills anyway, lets you forget how old you are for too short a time!

The IOL version. https://www.iol.co.za/news/crime-and-courts/porsche-driver-was-travelling-at-130kmh-in-a-80kmh-zone-when-he-struck-cyclist-andre-piehl-report-5751de92-288a-4b4a-b1f4-abed7c05c0a4

Seems to me like an open and shut, lock the cell door case BUT lawyers!

Thanks, last I heard they were very expensive but I am keen on Tubliss but will look at this fat rubber again. A puncture in some areas while riding alone makes me twitchy such that I run overly high pressures and the bikes skitter and bounce around.

You bastid; I googled that now I am lusting; just a little. How big a jump is it to 1mm metal cutting say?

I am from afar but think this is where PPA should put their weight behind doing something (more?) for cyclist safety

Point taken - I only have dirt bikes that do not get washed that often anyway and a scuff here and there would not really be noticeable; when it's rained my bikes have just stayed outside - it will catch me one day. But I notice in AdvRider trip reports that covers get used quite a bit.

Eish Hairy; very brave to leave it open - maybe a bike cover like Itchy Boots etc have?

My perception is that this is on the increase, everywhere (along with all crime I know) but it's expensive and traumatic. Maybe this, like on a Toyota, is needed if cycling in these parts of CT (or anywhere?). I understand that such a unit costs around R650, BUT, if you want decent battery life, will only update every few hours.

Maybe try get hold of the local Woodworker's Club or Guild; Google should find it. I know they have done something like this before but I don't have any contact details sorry.

From experience you do have to be a bit careful in mixed soil with some denser layers, pebbles etc as, if you are running it near full power it can jerk out of control and possibly give you a klap. Additions in such conditions are to pilot hole with a smaller auger (75mm diameter) and to have a pipe frame to guide and control it, for deeper holes, a chain block on top of the frame to pull it out if it gets stuck (be careful where you attach the chain - to the auger is best otherwise you can pull the motor to pieces). Hardly needed for fence posts up to 1.8m I guess.

I know it may not come to anything but lay a charge with SAPS. Compile as much detail as you can for them.

I see the interwebs tell be that there is a velcro joining calf brace that can be used to protect the battery connections. There are also guys who have changed the Giant connectors to waterproof ones (IP60?). I use a bit of switch cleaner on the contacts..

Good idea for sure and you cannot lose the battery off the bike on the rack (I know about this; R15 000 later) but, did you cover the battery contacts or not travel on gravel or dusty roads?

Just for interest I have a Giant Trance E+, 500Wh battery. On a recent ride through the core of Baviaans, about 80km, started with full charge, battery at 93% according to app, used only the lowest mode (one light out of five) and that was set at 50% of that option (you can go down to 25%). Ran out of battery about 2km from Kudu Khaya, i.e more or less 78km. BUT, guys with a 625Wh battery on a Giant and a 500Wh on a Scott made it relatively easily.

Lucky the ride was saved and cool to see the Buff; again. BUT what is it with WP forks and seals; or is it just them? If I don't bleed my forks (Husky 701 & 501) religiously after a ride they can start to weep. Park the bike a bit funny and the oil goes onto the front brake pads; oh, oh moment incoming.

A couple of SAffers doing well, Green won, Teasedale up there as was Young and Kleynhans I think.

Good Friday forumming all round I say. I have no problem with low balling, although I don't do it generally. My Hub experience has been good and only one left me bemused; the opposite of low balling. I saw some pedals at a good price, offered the asking price and was told after a day or so that someone else offered more; just a bit too much I thought and backed off. Chinese auction, no harm, no foul.

I like your sander nest Patches but why such thick ply? Leftover maybe? Something like 9mm should be enough I reckon.

Nice thread; farming can be more of a lifestyle than money spinner and, if you play it right (and EWC, CGT etc etc) doesn't derail you, the asset can fund retirement. I have a farm and keep finger on pulse but do not farm myself as the place is too small to sustain me, I don't have the energy or risk profile, although I dabble. As I see it the agriculture industry has some broad cycles; specialisation and geographically. What I see currently is grain crops (maize, wheat, sunflower etc etc) extending (Ukraine effect), dairy not doing badly and some things like avos, macs etc very promising but berries, fruit and other nuts a bit risky; climate and Transnet. Stock farming has a theft issue as noted but can be reasonable. Input costs have rocketed; fertiliser, fuel, insurance, labour and electricity (when you have it and generators are pricey). Cane may be on the wane (sic) and timber is vulnerable to fire etc and has a long cycle but they are tariff protected. Geographically Zambia seems popular now but it has been Botswana, Congo, Russia, Georgia, Zim etc. Finally, you have to be skilled, sharp and instinctive. Farming operations are becoming bigger and bigger, consolidating so smaller guys must have alternative income and all think outside the box; one guy makes good money flipping farms.