Capricorn

Hey CWC: you do MTB DH equipment as well? easton, Hope etc? i'm looking for a Hope 2 Pro 32h 20mm front hub. PM me a quote if possible.

jeeepers. in mocams??? but Yang: you have to go tell us how.

anyone care to rep pappa bear? dealt with Matchstix: thumbsup from me. Darnilj: errrm...nah. he's oritey. Recognized his mistake and fixed it presto. props.

mechanically fitting it to the bike is very straightforward . Setting up the indexing can be quite tricky. Sometimes the manual is a bit vague, and doing it on the stand is simply not an option. I did it on the floor once, but had to use two hands and a foot.. not cool.

i've read about using the LARGE-LARGE circuit, but then add 2 chain links for the correct length, instead of one. The latter somehow sounds more correct though. For rear suspended bikes, it changes a bit due to what they call chain-stay growth. Mr Brown didnt cover that in his link.

it's not the same from a heat transfer perspective. On the road, you get cooled by your movement through the air. indoors, unless you have a fan, you start heating up a lot quicker for comparable expenditure of effort.

out of the ordinary tubesets are making quite the statements these days. take the GT Fury as an example. I would imagine those are made from two half shells that were cast, and then seam welded to make up what looks like a monocoque-like frame. Makes bikes look more organic-like if you know what i mean. Luv it when builders think out of the box. NB: i checked the GT Fury, and it is a monocque frame, but made of carbon fiber. Not sure how they constructed those complicated tubesets without some sort of symmetrical seam line, but still very aweesome bike frame.

thing is: the intoxicated one doesn't get a payout from their insurance company, but you still will. What happens in the background is the insurance turns around and claims everything from her personally. I hope you whipped out your mobile phone and went snap happy on the accident scene. and most definitely try a Road accident claim.Capricorn2009-05-13 13:04:09

it's not IBM anymore. IBM sold the rights to the chinese holding company Lenovo, and if reviews are to be believed, then they are making very good products. Every brand have their rotten apples. But if outright market share is used as the yardstick, then Dell takes the cake. HP will however, disagree

if sandblasting cant be done, and i have my doubts that you cant get away with a spray-on filler to remove the slight roughness sandblasting results in, then try a steel-friendly chemical cleaner. I say steel-friendly, as some chemicals leech the carbon out of the steel's crystal structure, making it artificially brittle. This of course happens over time, so a wax on wax off approach might not result in any brittleness. The guys in the paint removal business are supposed to know the pro's and con's of each method, so consult with them. But nothing wrong with some elbow grease and a long weekend holding a piece of sandpaper

I would have to hazard a guess which says No. Old steel might not be a of the exotic/near-aircraft grade steels/aluminums they use today, thus them being more prone to very obvious corrosion, which will require some work removing. Keep in mind, that stressed portions of a piece of metal acts as an accelerant wrt corrosion. That's why, on items that have been pressed to form a shape, such as car bonnets and bootlids, the corrosion in older models of cars tended to occur at these bent sections, all because of the stresses incurred during the shaping process. Similarly, your bike's welds and sharply curved portions might be stressed if not properly heat treated to relieve these stresses. On older steel frames, this more than likely the case. So leaving exposed steel surfaces to even air, much less more aggressive conditions such as outside in varying temperature and rain, those stressed areas will start corroding the fastest. Note: stresses also occur over time in parts of the frame that are not that obvious. Check elsewhere on Thehub for some thread which clearly shows a Cannondale almost shearing off mid way thru one of its tubes. Cannondale calls it 'normal' fatigue failure. (frankly, i would luv to simulate that particular frame using some finite element analysis software to determine if that area is prone to fatigue, and compare it to frames from competing manufacturers. Might point to a design failure on behalf of Cannondale) So corrosion can be accelerated almost anywhere depending on where residual stresses are highest. I would recommend slapping on some primer on steel frames as soon as possible after removing it's protective layers of paint.Capricorn2009-05-13 04:09:06

sandblasting wont be an issue really: just protect any threaded portions. Also, aluminium does 'rust', but not in the sense that the word rust conveys. It forms a very thin oxidised layer that actually protects the aluminum underneath, so there is no real danger of huge amounts of material loss as one expects when mild steel or iron oxidises. As long as it's not exposed to the elements, you can leave the primer off: choice is yours really.

try actioncycling in the CBD. They've recently landed some Troy Lee Designs body armor. I sourced my TLD Brian Lopes Edition Shin & Knee protection from them for R550. They are supposed to land some Raceface stuff, but that's been delayed a few times. They are located on the corner of the Waterkant & Loop Street in Cape Town. PH: 021 425 6831 Another place to try is Mike Hopkins bikes. They are near the corner of Bree and Wale streets. They stock Thor body armour. It's more for MX, but rest assured it's hardcore protection.

who to shake your crank at then: the clients who complain and whom Remo's must try to accomodate, or Remo's themselves? I cycle till i sweat like all hubbers,but my word, i find other ppl's sweat and stank as horrid as anyone else. Simple case of time and place for everything.

UPDATE...!!!!!!!!!! Got my stuff...!!!!!....had to pay R540 (vat/customs???) on R3300 order from CRC....included were hydraulic Juicy brakes' date=' Mavic wheels and maxxis crossmark tires.....ALL in good order....I ordered last week Thursday and the stuff arrived yesterday at the posy office....dropped in there this morning and..........there it was........Just fitted the wheels and tires and I'm off for a quick spin soon.................!!![/quote'] which delivery service you take? I'm still waiting for my knee pads to leave the UK, if the tracking service is to be believed. ;(

b2b: customs probably pawing your goods deciding how best to afflict your wallet with a bad case The Emptiness

http://www.sacamera.co.za/ http://www.orms.co.za/ Canon EOS 450D or 1000D. R6k - R8k for camera incl stock 18-55mm lens. I'm bit of a canon fan, so hopefully other hubbers inclined to other brands can assist with alternates

Ace post there Climate. I totally agree.

i'm a bit divided: on a single track for DH riders, why in the world would ppl be cycling up? It's plain nutty. On another track not dedicated to DHers, I can understand . But there is a reason why no pedestrians and cyclists are allowed on freeways. Similarly, DH tracks should be dedicated to one way traffic. I would hate to wipe out because I had to 'give way' to some nutty going the wrong way.

i think the codes and the duty status should be summarised and made into a sticky. awesome info there ngala.

i'm pretty sure that medical research has indicated there is some correlation between heart rate, mass and energy usage. and yes, a quick google suggests my hypothesis as correct: Google Books other random linkCapricorn2009-04-27 11:30:34

Heyall My rear hub has a bit of play in it, and I think it's time for a replacement. Recently upgraded to Juicy 5's with 185mm rotors. Now, i've been eyeballing the Shimano saint range, as they are apparently DH/FR specific. Only really read good reviews about this product set. However, IIRC, the brake rotors are meant to be hub-spline mounted, and the rear mech mounted on the thru axle, ie, no longer on a drop out. DT Swiss makes a nice6-bolt rotor to hub-mounted adapter which works very well on Shimano products. But this is turning into a lot of extra components for what was supposed to be rear hub replacement. So my questions to y'all are: If I take the saints, which saint components should i take to ensure compability, yet allowing me to keep my Avid Juicy 5sIf I dont take the Saints, which other hub is recommended for DH?

Q1:a high speed impact could have done it. Check the edges for dents and gashes which might prove the supposition of an impact. Q2: rotors are normally made of steel, which are quite stiff, but not so stiff they become brittle. remember, they going to get quite hot, and should function under severe braking even in cold conditions, and thus be able to withstand relative extremes of temperature. Q3: Adapters tend to be brand specific because of slight differences in mounting holes. However, it wont hurt to check if it fits your juicy brakes. At the end of the day, I would agree with Kranswurm and recommend u simply spend some $$$ and buy a new rotor.

i'm game as well. However, I want a screen dump of the firmware to indicate it is actually 128GB. On Gumtree, they've been advertising 16GB drives that have at least 15GB corrupted. That is: they were fakes. Maybe get us a pic and manufacturers name so we can screen them via a websearch.