The Saint

K well here goes, but some of these suggestions are just plain laughable. Carry a BB gun yes let's do that bit impractical - do you carry a BB Gun? If so please send us a photo of this thing strapped to your back and your instructions on loading whilst riding - please don't go so far as to tell me that you ride with it loaded and ready to shoot. Throw ball bearings, I quote "ball barings + car traveling at 80 = shotgun infront of the car and 1 stuffed radiator." OR ONE DEAD DRIVER unless you throw like Jonty Rhodes. or safer, chuck your water bottle at their windscreen - and just how is this safer? Use spark plugs - mmmm another interesting concept considering that porcelain breaks glass with considerable ease. Used by you local smash and grabber at your nearest robot. After packing all this junk do you guys actually have space in your pockets for food? Come on people I have heard of silly season but this is just ridiculous. In the interests of self preservation maybe just getting off the road is the sane thing to do when you see a car bearing down on you.

More than likely just a cable adjustment needed - can happen with new bikes as the cables stretch and sometimes just general wear and tear. Pretty much a 5 minute fix. Read up about rear derailer adjustment and do it yourself. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html - read here it even has pictures

Yup here is a pic of my baby...some nice views have been Jupiter, Saturn, Orion Nebula, Large Megallanic Cloud and Eta Carinae - to name a few some awesome star clusters too. ~Hijack OFF~

I have an Orion 10" Dob - my wife calls it the Canon

Give this a read My link

Check your setup

Kinda like trying to buy a new car and everyone is telling you that theirs is the best. Not sure how much you want to spend but probably at the moment some of the best value for money bikes you can get in entry level are Merida and Scott. Having said that I suggest you take someone along with you who knows a thing or two about bikes and then go do your shopping Hope this helps

I'm a cat lover and still found that funny - there really is no harm intended lighten up a bit.

Wasn't there a lady not so long ago prosecuted for animal abuse for doing this. If I remember correctly she rode her bike and had the dog on a leash running next to her.

e=mc2

Gravity is a bitch - your seat will gradually get lower over time, every now and then you need to lift it a bit.

$145 almost as big a rip off as a Power Balance Band

Your LBS is correct - it does take a few days to adjust to the changes

Pick me pick me

Thanks guys you gave me a great idea. I got one of those degree adjustable stems from the LBS (Cajees Boksburg - good guys gave me one to try out). I can now lift the bars and flatten out the tri bar section thereby lifting the pads

This world really is going to shite if you can't ask a simple question anymore without having to first consult your lawyer to find out if you have to correct wording - this is a stupid thread close it down and move on.

Errr surprising as you have the formula wrong - its .883 Anyways read this article it gives you a few different methods My link

Yup racer as I stated there is no fixed formula as we are all built differently, The Lemond formula puts me way to low on the bike - my knees almost hit me in the chin Also the Lemond formula states I should ride a 57 Frame and that is way way to big form me - Lemond has also been known to talk a lot of shite from time to time Just the 109% seems to "fit" most people - remember the measurement is from the TOP of the saddle and not the saddle rail. I suppose the most accurate way to measure would be to put the calculator away and get a goniometer which measures joint angles.

Caerus there are a few different formulas around to calculate seat height - most bike shops I know use the 109% formula as it seems to generally be within the correct range and "fits" most people. It will work for both MTB and Road but as I said it gives you a very good idea of where your saddle should be, you will still need to adjust afterward to get it just right. There is no hard and fast rule to calculating saddle height as we are all built differently. For instance the same person would sit lower on a TT bike than they would on a Road bike and slightly higher on a MTB than a Rod Bike - hence the finer adjustments after the initial setup. Hope this helps

Hi Woolie I posted this a few days ago Closest way to calculate your seat height is the following. Measure your inseam - push the tape into the bone between your hol and your nuts and down to the floor (no shoes on)Get someone to help you with this to get an accurate measurement. Take the measurement multiply by 109% and then minus your crank arm length (Cranks are normally 172.5mm in length so less 17.25cm) That will give you a measurement as close a dammit from the TOP of your saddle to the middle of the BB. From there it is mm adjustments to get your seat height correct. Hope this helps

I have done my setup myself but it has taken some time to get it right. I am still having to do some tweaks here and there after about 12 hours of actual riding. If you have the time and knowledge I say do it yourself, if you want a quick fix go see someone with your cheque book in hand.

Fees do your pads then attach to the outer bar - the bar which holds the break levers?

Can someone please help. I have a TT6000 like the one posted in the first picture. As you can see the pads on which my elbows rest are almost on the same level as the TT bar. I want to raise these pads much like the pads in the second picture. Can I do this with the current bars on the bike and also what do I need to buy in order to do this? In short I want to get my elbows higher. Hope I have been clear enough

I got myself a TT bike, but also have never done this event before so am keen to see responses.

Cajees Boksburg gets a from me, great bunch of guys and will be my LBS for a long long long time to come.