Mr lee

Why not go with Rapide Rims...really affordable, well made and hold well to abuse (all 116kg's of it minus kit ). They also do 30mm widths!

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/brake-pad-information-2009.html Not really relevant for the topic but a little bit more info for others that may find this post looking for clues on what and why to get what they need

I suppose it also depends on your application... But I for one always prefer to get the pads that were made by the manufacturer...or at least approved by the manufacturer....I am the same with car brake pads! You do not know what short cuts are taken by the aftermarket brand! I suppose there are also failures with the manufacturer but you probably have more recourse with them than with aftermarket. After all, you don't want the pads failing under extreme conditions! The resin G02A pads (aluminium back plate) are going for R150 a set at CWC which is really good for what they are. These are standard issue on the M8000 brake sets and due to the excellent stopping power of the system they are more than adequate for the average user. I swapped the G02A out for the metal finned J04C pads which I got with my wifes SLX M7000 brake set (replaced them with the G02S - steel back plate, more than enough for her light weight ). I only did this cause I wanted the full ICE-Tech compliment due to my weight and now we have a spare set of G02A to take with on race days. The G02A were great, and quiet, before I made the change! The J02A resin finned pads are R290 at CWC which would be a great all-rounder and the fins help with pad life, as was noted above and with the attached pic... G04Ti metal (Titanium backplate) is also not bad at R299! If you not in a major hurry then wait for the next batch of sales at CWC

If you have not looked at them before you will think there is something wrong. Go look at a new bike and you will see the irregular shaped tooth profiles. This is only applicable to 2x and 3x setups as a 1x setup does not need to shift on the chainring so all teeth will have the same or similar profile. As mentioned by Dexter they are mean't to aid with shifting up and down!

And how was it Andrew?

Don't worry about being charged for a guided ride....total rip off and you can ride wherever you want...within reason. You will see loads of cars pull in with bikes, especially at the vacation club!

You can always ride the hill climb from the entrance (the one that travels next to the mono-rail). Keep left as you enter! I did that last year and could not get to the top without stopping....granted I was not that fit at the time though If you ride that a few times over I am sure you will look forward to that cold beer or a dip in any of the pools, especially with the temps these days. We rode around the golf course later in the afternoon after 5 on the golf cart paths and didn't have any problems...almost got lost a few times too . Even saw a lonely elephant up on the mountain slope There are more than enough paths (on and off road) to keep you busy and exploring. As mentioned above though I would not venture out of the grounds for your own safety!

You are like half my weight....might be the reason you haven't had it blow off on you like mine did

You generally want them higher for road to reduce drag and rolling resistance and lower for off-road to help with traction....same as a car BTW at 3.5 bar on tubeless you run the risk of the tyre blowing off the rim when the tyre and air inside warm up....ask me how I know this

Tubed or tubeless? What tyres are you using? Make and model? Either way you would usually run the rear lower than the front as all your weight is biased towards the rear! I am now 116Kg's and run 2.3-2.5 bar rear (2.5 on tar) and between 1.5-1.8 in front. 2.2 rear width and 2.4 front.

Looks great....that chainring looks ssssoooooooooo tiny now!!!!! :lol: Are you using the medium or long caged derailleur? Can't make it out cause of that monster cassette throwing off the proportions a little

Should be ok then... Sorry I just assumed (mother of all F#@k ups ) that you were on the heavier side due to wanting an XL frame

I do like that Scott are sticking with the times now and using wider 25mm rims

How much do you weigh? I was initially going to go for a 2016 Scott spark 960 which had the same or similar rear shock (the fusion). After a bit of research I decided against it as I weighed in at 125Kg's (at the time) and was not confident that it would handle the higher pressure required to handle a heavier rider. I would rather stick with Rockhox or Fox on the rear.....

Got in touch with one of the local Cannondale agents and I have found out that the bikes are tested up to handle 150Kg.....

Would love the Scultura and it was on top of my list but sadly the XL is smaller than the 63cm in the Cannondale and Giant

No cause I usually rather prefer to buy new... but if the right second hand one came along in the right size then I would consider it.

Ok sorry for the confusion... Can't seem to figure out how to edit the title ! Anyway from a few other threads I have looked at, it seems that Cannondale and Giant are the best options in terms of sizing. Specialized would also be fine but you not getting value for money on components when compared to the others... Cannondale Caad Optimo Sora - Rims:RS, 24H Front, 28H Rear. Think it rules out this model due to the low rim profile. Cannondale Caad Optimo Tiagra - Rims:RS 3.0, 24H Front, 28H Rear. These rims appear to have a larger profile according to pictures on Cannondale's website! Cannondale Caad 12 Tiagra - Rims:RS 2.0, 24H Front, 28H Rear. These rims appear to have a larger profile according to pictures on Cannondale's website! Giant Contend 1 2018- Rims: Giant SR-3 24H front, 32H rear. Higher spoke count rear could help with my weight! Giant Contend SL 2 2018- Rims: Giant SR-2 24H front, 24H rear. Low rear spoke count may be a problem! The only info I can find on the rims is weight... Another question....which shops in the JHB area keep actual Giant and Cannondale stock that can be viewed? I have tried Cycle lab, Finish Line, Procycles (Benoni)...

I read on here that it is good to rest your bike upside down from time to time to allow the shock oil to seep back into the upper wipers so it does not dry out.... I would not actuate the brake lever when in the upside down position though!

What I find strange is that the shops that sell you your bike never mention the 50hrs shock service once you walk out the door!!! Probably don't want to scare you into walking away from the deal....or rather give you a "shock" when you bring it round for a service ! I am on my second bike and the first time I found out about it was after doing some research on upgrading my current fork...and on here of course. When you buy a new fork, does it not come with the 50hrs service kit in the box? If so why are these kits not supplied with the new bike or at least used on your fork when you bring it in and you are just charged the labour?????? There is usually a plastic bag that is supplied with some goodies in it when the shops receive new bikes in their box...is the service kit in this bag?

Thanks S14 but I was looking at trying to avoid having to lay out additional funds over and above the actual bike. Hoping for a few comments as to what has been used without any issues....

I feel that cyclists need to take it upon themselves to make sure they are visible at all times of the day and not only when it is dark! FOR YOUR OWN SELF PRESERVATION! It is always the drivers fault for not seeing us but we are also in part at fault for expecting drivers to see a small and often dark moving object while trying to concentrate on all the other hazards on 4-16 wheels. I make it a point now to ride with lights on during the day as well now, along with the usual bright clothing....I use the black and darker colours for the bike parks. What really got my attention was when on a morning ride with the better half. She had disappeared into the shadows of a large tree at the side of the road when I looked back to see if she was ok. The sun was so bright that all I could see was the flash of her front light . Motorists would not have seen her either (from the front or back) had she not have had anything to grab their attention! EDIT: spelling mistooks

Just go with the normal fixed tow bar. If you are going to be hitching the bike rack you are probably never going to remove the tow ball....ever, so it is a waste. Depending on the car, fixed is usually around 5K. It also helps protect your bumper if someone is careless enough to give you a nudge! I think you will need to give the make and model of your car for others to comment.

So there are no big guys riding an entry level road bike....!

I am looking at a few entry level road bikes and was wondering if there are any of the larger blokes out there that have purchased an entry level steed (8-15K range) and had any issues with the wheels that came with the bike. Please mention brand, model as well as year specs and your weight I know that staying with a high spoke count is important as well as rim profile but not all brands are supplied with 32 spokes and 30mm+ profile rims ... Most brands use a larger spoke count on the rear wheel as that is where the weigh bias lies but I am not sure if a 24 spoke and 24mm rim profile will handle 117kg's safely. I went through wheel strengths with my MTB but I would like to know that I could purchase a road bike and not have to fork out more Mhoola later on as it will only be used for training (and keeping up with the roadies on morning rides) purposes