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SRAM is proud to announce the acquisition of the entire range of road and mountain pedals, cleats, and all related patents of TIME Sport from Rossignol Group. The companies completed the transaction on February 18, 2021. Click here to view the article

Press Release: Meet Rival eTAP AXS Experience a better bike ride. SRAM Rival eTap AXS features the technology modern riders demand—intuitive wireless shifting, innovative gearing, integrated power measurement, AXS connectivity, and refined hydraulic disc brakes. It’s low on complexity, but rich with features. Click here to view the article

SRAM GX Eagle is getting the AXS treatment which brings the simplicity of wireless to the brand's popular GX Eagle lineup. Get the details in the press release and video from SRAM below. Click here to view the article

Although there are more reviews and articles written about SRAM RED eTap than any other product in SRAM’s history, there are many features unique to eTap that are still relatively unknown. In this article, SRAM reviews 11 of these features to give greater insight into eTap’s capabilities. Click here to view the article

Hi All, When i bought a new bike a while ago that came with Eagle, I did not get a chain gap adjustment tool with it, as one would get if you buy a new SRAM Eagle derailleur. I was told by the shop that since it's OEM on my bike, they also did not get one so they can't supply me with one. Does anyone know where I can buy one? I've asked around locally but have not found anyone with a spare they are willing to sell...and if I import one the shipping costs will actually be higher than the tool itself so I also don't want to go down that route...?

Good morning Over the weekend, the shifter lever on my SRAM Force 10 speed snapped off. Please see image. Can this be repaired? Or would it be easier and cheaper to buy new shifters? Any ideas as to where I could get a replacement would be greatly appreciated. Or should I be looking at an upgrade to a new 11 speed groupset? Thanks in advance.

Taken off a Trainerroad thread Looks interesting, especially for those who seem keen on 1x for the road Here is what you would need. Sram Shifters from Dirk. (90 Euros for the modified guts so maybe a little more for the guts and brake levers) Sram 1x Rear derailleur (Long Cage: CX1, Rival1, Apex1) (anywhere from $50-$150) Sram XDR Driver (Sram’s freehub for their newer AXS stuff) (around $70) Sram Force AXS 12 speed 10-33 or 10-36 cassette (around $175) Fouriers Extender or other extender. (around $40) Sram AXS chain or other Sram/KMC 12 speed chain (yes you can use a non AXS chain on AXS cassettes) $30

In review of 2016, Iwan Kemp looks at the best bikes and gear that he rode last year. Click here to view the article

ShockWiz is a suspension tuning system for air-sprung mountain bikes that combines high-tech hardware with an intuitive smartphone app. Click here to view the article

I am in a unique position in having the difficult task of choosing between the three*... Di2 is awesome when it works, but if it doesn't, you're stuffed. Perfect shifts day in, day out. It does also have a weight disadvantage. Practically maintenance free apart from charging the battery and lubing the chain. Force22 is light in comparison but settling in will occur and adjustment will be required. Cables and housings will need to be changed every so often. Edit: Athena EPS has emerged as an option now too. Middle ground between the two groupo's and is Electronic... And more importantly, it's Campy.

Hi All, Im not sure if I should start a new topic, but the other ones have so many replies it makes it very hard to see what to do (like 150 pages of replies). In short I'm looking for a bike suitable for Enduro style riding. So far I have the following down to consider: Specialized Enduro 29" Santa Cruz Bronson C X01 spec Santa Cruz Nomad C X01 spec Pyga 140 - X01 Groupset, 160mm Pike RC3 up front, SRAM RS Guide brakes (180mm front /160mm rear) (XT group set also an option for a few grand less) Giant Trance Advanced Yeti SB66/SB95/SB75 all options - just waiting for the Yeti dealer to get me quotes Any thing else you guys know of that we can get here (Im not keen on importing, I would like to have one of my local bike shops supporting and being able to maintain the bike)

As the topic says Due to various reasons i don't know what Km's my cassette has and before i shell out 3K for a new one, i just want to make sure. For information sakes Sram Xx Got the bike as a demo, my frame was cracked Did Joberg2c on it, so i have done 1000km on the bike the bike looked brand new when i dot it, so did the drive train What bothers me is, the Bike mechanic (at Joberg2c) says they are toast Help would be welcome

I have realised that since Sani, my rear hub bearings are grinding and have pretty much seized. I have decided to fix this myself since I pretty much do everything else on the bike without hassle but the hubs have me stumped. Firstly, I have never done a hub bearing so I am not too sure how to go about it. Secondly, It is a Sram X9 rear hub and there is no info on it online besides an exploded view on the Sram website. I haven't been able to find any videos on YouTube, not have I found a tutorial on the interwebs. I have disassembled the hub to a point but cannot get any further. I cannot seem to remove the black nut pictured below. Can anyone give me some pointers, or better yet, a tutorial on how to remove X9 hub bearings. Thanks!

Anyone know if you can you get replacement 11t cassette cogs on their own, either SRAM or Shimano is fine and the price thereof. My chain slips on the 11t under power when in the small 26t ring up front , 2x10. I don't typically cross chain like that but every now and then in some situations I'll gear down onto the 11t and then I really need it and it slips, had a few sketchy situations. Tried a 11t from a spare new cassette and that solved the problem but now I need a spare 11t cog to replace it.

Have a Xx 2x 10, 26-39 set up up front and 11-36 rear my question is can i use Sram Xo rear casette as a replacement with 1091R chain plus use Xo chain rings i will like to eep the same gearing BTW I have always had Shimano set up so this Sram thing is rather new to me welcome input please

Momsen AL829 comes out standard with a Sram XO Carbon 39/26 crank and chainring combination (2x10). The big chainring however is starting to show excessive wear and tear. It is now at such a level that the moment extra power is applied (as in hill climbs or sprinting) the chain will climb off onto granny (big spin but going nowhere). To the experts, please recommend a suitable replacement chainring that is a bit more hardy. I am even considering maybe going bigger (42-44).....maybe someting like a red anodized Race Face narrow-wide. Help asb die ou ballie........

An interesting read: Shimano’s Shifting Philosophy We were given a fresh explanation of Shimano’s drivetrain philosophy at the launch, which actually made sense. Shimano divides all available gear ratios into two groups: “Driving gears” and “Challenge gears.” Driving gears, in the case of a two-by or three-by transmission, are in the middle range of the cassette when the rider is in the big chainring. Challenge gears are for the steepest climbs, when the rider is forced to select the smaller chainrings and to use the larger three cogs of the cassette. In the case of a one-by drivetrain, Driving gears are the first eight cogs on the right-side of the cassette. Shimano professes that the smooth, 10-RPM jumps between shifts generated by its Rhythm Step, 11 by 40-tooth cassette, optimize the efficiency of the driving gears that we use most often for both climbing and pedaling on the flats. While the closer gear ratios of Shimano’s XTR cassette provide smaller steps between most of the gearing range, they cannot attain the higher top and bottom gears of SRAM’s XX1 10 by 42 cassette. To achieve a competitive spread, Shimano “strongly suggests” that XTR customers choose its two-chainring option. Before you whip out your calculators, the closest comparison that a Shimano XTR M9000 two-by drivetrain has to SRAM’s one-by is: Shimano 28 x 38-tooth chainrings, two-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 28/40 = 1.42:1 ratio. Highest gear 38/11 = 1:3.45 ratio. (22 gear selections) SRAM 30-tooth chainring, one-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 30/42 = 1.4:1 ratio. Highest gear 30/10 = 1:3 ratio. (11 gear selections) What the above chart demonstrates is how Shimano’s close-ratio two-by option provides a nearly identical gearing spread when compared to a SRAM XX1 one-by drivetrain. By switching to a 28-tooth chainring, the SRAM one-by drivetrain can also match Shimano’s 26 by 36 option, but Shimano also offers a third, 26 by 36 option for its two-by crankset that provides XTR customers a lower granny gear than SRAM can match (Shimano: Lowest gear 24/40 = 1.66:1 vs SRAM: Lowest gear 28/42 – 1.5:1). The bottom line is that Shimano’s choice for trail gearing is a two-by transmission, and it competes directly with SRAM’s one-by offerings. The customer’s choice is: “Do I want 22 shifts and a front derailleur, or do I want 11 shifts and no front derailleur?” What about Shimano’s One-By XTR Option? One-by customers can choose XTR chainrings between 30 and 36 teeth, but the narrower gearing spread of the 11 x 40, eleven-speed cassette means that riders may need to keep a couple of chainrings in their toolbox to match their gearing to the task at hand. Calculating out Shimano XTR’s lowest-available, 30-tooth-chainring option fetches a low gear of 1.33:1 and a high of 1: 2.73. Compare those figures with the options from SRAM and Shimano that we covered earlier in this segment, and they indicate that hills will be harder to climb, or you will probably be spun out on the flats. Shimano’s one-by gearing options are clearly intended for racers and stronger riders who will probably choose the biggest chainring that they can comfortably push and then suffer with whatever low gear is left when the big climbs arrive. What this says, and its from Shimano themselves, is that their "One-By XTR " option is not anywhere near what SRAM can offer. The 10 x 42 option with SRAM makes more sense vs 11 x 40 from Shimano....unless you like suffering!! this tells me that SRAM is the only option for a single chainring as their spread is better. Shimano still needs two up front or you buy extra Chain rings to swop out if the ride is challenging

An interesting read: Shimano’s Shifting Philosophy We were given a fresh explanation of Shimano’s drivetrain philosophy at the launch, which actually made sense. Shimano divides all available gear ratios into two groups: “Driving gears” and “Challenge gears.” Driving gears, in the case of a two-by or three-by transmission, are in the middle range of the cassette when the rider is in the big chainring. Challenge gears are for the steepest climbs, when the rider is forced to select the smaller chainrings and to use the larger three cogs of the cassette. In the case of a one-by drivetrain, Driving gears are the first eight cogs on the right-side of the cassette. Shimano professes that the smooth, 10-RPM jumps between shifts generated by its Rhythm Step, 11 by 40-tooth cassette, optimize the efficiency of the driving gears that we use most often for both climbing and pedaling on the flats. While the closer gear ratios of Shimano’s XTR cassette provide smaller steps between most of the gearing range, they cannot attain the higher top and bottom gears of SRAM’s XX1 10 by 42 cassette. To achieve a competitive spread, Shimano “strongly suggests” that XTR customers choose its two-chainring option. Before you whip out your calculators, the closest comparison that a Shimano XTR M9000 two-by drivetrain has to SRAM’s one-by is: Shimano 28 x 38-tooth chainrings, two-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 28/40 = 1.42:1 ratio. Highest gear 38/11 = 1:3.45 ratio. (22 gear selections) SRAM 30-tooth chainring, one-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 30/42 = 1.4:1 ratio. Highest gear 30/10 = 1:3 ratio. (11 gear selections) What the above chart demonstrates is how Shimano’s close-ratio two-by option provides a nearly identical gearing spread when compared to a SRAM XX1 one-by drivetrain. By switching to a 28-tooth chainring, the SRAM one-by drivetrain can also match Shimano’s 26 by 36 option, but Shimano also offers a third, 26 by 36 option for its two-by crankset that provides XTR customers a lower granny gear than SRAM can match (Shimano: Lowest gear 24/40 = 1.66:1 vs SRAM: Lowest gear 28/42 – 1.5:1). The bottom line is that Shimano’s choice for trail gearing is a two-by transmission, and it competes directly with SRAM’s one-by offerings. The customer’s choice is: “Do I want 22 shifts and a front derailleur, or do I want 11 shifts and no front derailleur?” What about Shimano’s One-By XTR Option? One-by customers can choose XTR chainrings between 30 and 36 teeth, but the narrower gearing spread of the 11 x 40, eleven-speed cassette means that riders may need to keep a couple of chainrings in their toolbox to match their gearing to the task at hand. Calculating out Shimano XTR’s lowest-available, 30-tooth-chainring option fetches a low gear of 1.33:1 and a high of 1: 2.73. Compare those figures with the options from SRAM and Shimano that we covered earlier in this segment, and they indicate that hills will be harder to climb, or you will probably be spun out on the flats. Shimano’s one-by gearing options are clearly intended for racers and stronger riders who will probably choose the biggest chainring that they can comfortably push and then suffer with whatever low gear is left when the big climbs arrive. What this says, and its from Shimano themselves, is that their "One-By XTR " option is not anywhere near what SRAM can offer. The 10 x 42 option with SRAM makes more sense vs 11 x 40 from Shimano....unless you like suffering!! this tells me that SRAM is the only option for a single chainring as their spread is better. Shimano still needs two up front or you buy extra Chain rings to swop out if the ride is challenging

An interesting read: Shimano’s Shifting Philosophy We were given a fresh explanation of Shimano’s drivetrain philosophy at the launch, which actually made sense. Shimano divides all available gear ratios into two groups: “Driving gears” and “Challenge gears.” Driving gears, in the case of a two-by or three-by transmission, are in the middle range of the cassette when the rider is in the big chainring. Challenge gears are for the steepest climbs, when the rider is forced to select the smaller chainrings and to use the larger three cogs of the cassette. In the case of a one-by drivetrain, Driving gears are the first eight cogs on the right-side of the cassette. Shimano professes that the smooth, 10-RPM jumps between shifts generated by its Rhythm Step, 11 by 40-tooth cassette, optimize the efficiency of the driving gears that we use most often for both climbing and pedaling on the flats. While the closer gear ratios of Shimano’s XTR cassette provide smaller steps between most of the gearing range, they cannot attain the higher top and bottom gears of SRAM’s XX1 10 by 42 cassette. To achieve a competitive spread, Shimano “strongly suggests” that XTR customers choose its two-chainring option. Before you whip out your calculators, the closest comparison that a Shimano XTR M9000 two-by drivetrain has to SRAM’s one-by is: Shimano 28 x 38-tooth chainrings, two-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 28/40 = 1.42:1 ratio. Highest gear 38/11 = 1:3.45 ratio. (22 gear selections) SRAM 30-tooth chainring, one-by drivetrain: Lowest gear 30/42 = 1.4:1 ratio. Highest gear 30/10 = 1:3 ratio. (11 gear selections) What the above chart demonstrates is how Shimano’s close-ratio two-by option provides a nearly identical gearing spread when compared to a SRAM XX1 one-by drivetrain. By switching to a 28-tooth chainring, the SRAM one-by drivetrain can also match Shimano’s 26 by 36 option, but Shimano also offers a third, 26 by 36 option for its two-by crankset that provides XTR customers a lower granny gear than SRAM can match (Shimano: Lowest gear 24/40 = 1.66:1 vs SRAM: Lowest gear 28/42 – 1.5:1). The bottom line is that Shimano’s choice for trail gearing is a two-by transmission, and it competes directly with SRAM’s one-by offerings. The customer’s choice is: “Do I want 22 shifts and a front derailleur, or do I want 11 shifts and no front derailleur?” What about Shimano’s One-By XTR Option? One-by customers can choose XTR chainrings between 30 and 36 teeth, but the narrower gearing spread of the 11 x 40, eleven-speed cassette means that riders may need to keep a couple of chainrings in their toolbox to match their gearing to the task at hand. Calculating out Shimano XTR’s lowest-available, 30-tooth-chainring option fetches a low gear of 1.33:1 and a high of 1: 2.73. Compare those figures with the options from SRAM and Shimano that we covered earlier in this segment, and they indicate that hills will be harder to climb, or you will probably be spun out on the flats. Shimano’s one-by gearing options are clearly intended for racers and stronger riders who will probably choose the biggest chainring that they can comfortably push and then suffer with whatever low gear is left when the big climbs arrive. What this says, and its from Shimano themselves, is that their "One-By XTR " option is not anywhere near what SRAM can offer. The 10 x 42 option with SRAM makes more sense vs 11 x 40 from Shimano....unless you like suffering!! this tells me that SRAM is the only option for a single chainring as their spread is better. Shimano still needs two up front or you buy extra Chain rings to swop out if the ride is challenging

I bought a set of wheels ZTR wheels with Stans hubs, big problem in the hiding was how fast cassette individual teeth destroy a alloy freehub. To slow the wear and save the freehub I have gone out and bought an XT Cassette M771 as it have 2 sets of 3 cogs mounted together and therefore spreading the single gear pressure onto three gears. My concern is will the already damaged freehub now damage the cassette as the mount that holds the three does not have the full foundation of a solid freehub, or are the 5 pivots holding it together strong enough to take the load. I think Sram Cassettes will damage a alloy freehub faster than these Shimano triple mounts

Good day MTB enthusiasts I have noticed an increase in interest among MTBers wanting to go the 1x9/10 route. Myself and a mate have taken the iniative to do some research into manufacturing our own Narrow Wide chain rings locally to try bring the price down and make a little money in the process. Initially, we will only manufacture 104BCD 32T chain rings. These seem to be the most popular. They will be annodized to increase the hardness. The chain rings will be cut out of 7075-T6 Al which is the same aircraft grade alu used for SRAM xx1 chainrings. If all goes well we will start to introduce more variations to the market. (30T, 34T, 36T and so on...). Hopefully some SRAM versions later on as well. If sufficient interest is shown, we will go ahead with an initial order. We are trying our best to get the chain rings onto the market at under R500. Please leave a comment on this thread if you have any questions or send me a PM if you are interested.

Hi. At today mtb my front derailleur decided to only shift between 2 and 3rd. On the dail it shows 1st and 2nd. I noticed that the cable was loose. I titend it, but to no avail. Can somebody help me to reset it?

I am sure everyone has experienced it at one point, something that creeks. I believe my non drive side XO crank has a creek, I have changed the BB 3 times, changed pedals and nothing helps. I am 97KG and when I apply pressure to the non drive side crank at the 9-11 o'clock position it creek and OMG does it irritate me. I have stripped the crank clean and lubed and re built. The other thing It could be is that the crank tightens with a 8MM allen key, while I have a long key there is not much torch to be applied,maybe a good thing, how much torch or NM force should be applied, I don't have a torch wrench to test.

Does anyone have experience with a Rockshox Poploc not releasing? Fork is a Rock Shox Reba 29 RL Air (2012 model). Here's the Motion Control unit model: http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/remote-upgrade-kit-poploc The fork doesn't unlock when pushing the Poploc button. The remote mechanism and cable both move freely. I also removed the Motion Control unit from the fork to check that it's spring was attached top & botton, and that the bottom aluminium disc/value was rotating freely. I testing the spring action without cable attached after reassembling the fork and the action feels correct. Any ideas why it doesn't release with the Poploc? Could the Motion Control unit's spring have weakened? I'm stumped.

So I'm considering to start a new build later this year... However, last time that I bought / built a bike, 3x9 was the standard and you basically only had to choose between LX, XT and XTR based on what your budget would allow, or equivalently X7, X9 or X0 if you were in the SRAM camp. These days there's all the talk about 2X10's, 1X11, Clutch derailleurs etc. I'm a big fan of simplicity, so I'm quite excited about the 1X11 options out there, but from my understanding this is only available on the top end groupsets. Can anybody give a run-own on what options are available out there? i.e. can you purchase a SLX groupset in a 1 X 11 configuration? Can you buy a XT clutch derailleur, or are these options only available on the top end stuff? Reason I'm asking, is I place a higher value on having a good frame, good shock & fork and good wheels whilst caring less about my groupset e.g. being a SLX rather than a XTR, but want to know if I will be compromising my options.