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Wyatt Earp

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The working from home Mk2 map scanner, now with counterweight after some failings of the Mk1 became suddenly evident ????

post-41145-0-21151400-1585833572_thumb.jpg

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The working from home Mk2 map scanner, now with counterweight after some failings of the Mk1 became suddenly evident ????

9a3b12bc-bf62-4582-b606-e4d5078ec713.jpg

Paste the map to a glass door ... use a normal tripod.

 

 

Longer lens for less distortion ...

 

 

Use natural. Flash light is a pain for this ...

 

 

Came in handy to "scan" very old A0 drawings....

Edited by ChrisF
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Paste the map to a glass door ... use a normal tripod.

 

 

Longer lens for less distortion ...

 

 

Use natural. Flash light is a pain for this ...

 

 

Came in handy to "scan" very old A0 drawings....

 

Or back light. 

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Paste the map to a glass door ... use a normal tripod.

 

 

Longer lens for less distortion ...

 

 

Use natural. Flash light is a pain for this ...

 

 

Came in handy to "scan" very old A0 drawings....

Thanks for the feedback, its a mixed bag though, for more modern papers flash is a nightmare due to reflection and using a window as a light table works pretty well.  The older amonia print maps though often have blotching either from light exposure or chemical decay and this can really obscure detail with a back light, especially if they have pencil crayon colouring on them, so I have to mix and match.

 

Any gurus have suggestions for zoom with the least distortion on a CMOS size sensor?

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Theoretically the longer the (within reason) lens the less the distortion. 

 

Assuming you have a half-decent camera body and lens something like Lightroom will recognise the lens and can automatically correct distortion, vignetting etc. If Lightroom (or similar) doesn't recognise your camera/lens then you can adjust manually. 

 

If you have more than one flash then have them face backward onto a light featureless wall. This will send soft and mostly highlight-free light back to the map (assuming you shoot the map on a vertical surface). 

 

Nasa uses plain DSLRs to 'scan' their medium-format negatives and positives (rather than an actual scanner). Of course maps require much higher ceilings ...  :w00t:

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Thanks for the feedback, its a mixed bag though, for more modern papers flash is a nightmare due to reflection and using a window as a light table works pretty well. The older amonia print maps though often have blotching either from light exposure or chemical decay and this can really obscure detail with a back light, especially if they have pencil crayon colouring on them, so I have to mix and match.

 

Any gurus have suggestions for zoom with the least distortion on a CMOS size sensor?

I was working with poor quality paper copies of 40 year old blue prints ... and a couple of fold marks to make it more interesting ....

 

Flash glared ...

 

Back light did not work ...

 

Ended up using "clear day light" at an angle to provide uniform exposure.

 

 

Masking tape at the top and bottom to iron out most of the folds ....

 

I was about 5m away, as far as the layout allowed.

 

 

Photos in RAW format, then significant work in Lightroom to bring out the fine detail in the poor copies, without making the drawing too dark ... I wanted a clean WHITE background.

 

 

Final step was to convert to pdf format.

 

 

First one was trial and error ... and redo ... and redo. Once I had the recipe it was very quick to do a pile of drawings.

 

 

 

As you rightly say ... no one recipe for the different types of paper or print types.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nice shot Tank. Who's the strong Auntie and what prototype is that?

That is Nadine Rieder from Germany, sponsored by Rotwild bikes.

 

We got news that the Epic was being cannened on the Friday night, so Nadine and myself thought to rather keep ourselves busy than to sit and sulk too much.

 

Got her into one of the local XC races at Rheebokskloof last minute on Saturday! She kicked ass, took the lead from the gun and had about a 5min gap at in the end.

 

Fun day... not knowing at the time that was my last shoot... for a while to come it seems, especially with sport events.

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A bit of drone photography 

love having the time to play around 

I never thought I would like this kind of shot, but sheesh there is something magic about it.

 

EDIT:

 

What kind of drone, software used for development etc.

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