rickus grobled Posted June 4, 2015 Share What is the cheapest way to upgrade from 3x10 to 1x10 ? Ryno. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest notmyname Posted June 10, 2015 Share What is the cheapest way to upgrade from 3x10 to 1x10 ?I just did this exercise so here's my take. I had a deore 3x10 crank which I was desperate to upgrade. I bought a pre loved slx 2x10 crank on this hub. Then from CWC I ordered a XT 10 speed chain and XT 10 speed Cassette. (11/36) From rapide' I ordered the 1x10 bundle(42t range extender, 32t NW chain ring and new bolts) kalbo designs supplied the 16t sprocket. Ezpz. http://www.cwcycles.co.za/ http://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-1-x-10-bundle-with-bolts/ http://www.kalbo.co.za/productsRCS.html Edited June 10, 2015 by Small Fry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryno. Posted June 11, 2015 Share What is the cheapest way to upgrade from 3x10 to 1x10 ?Sell your Front Derailleur and shifters with chainrings and buy a Kalbo NW chainring R450 +spacers R69 rickus grobled 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bianchi boet Posted June 21, 2015 Share Playing around with more than one bike at a time. I have had a white Silverback Oakland for quite a while now. It is in very good condition (read never really seen singletrack yet) and so I have been upgrading it. I have fitted a 9 speed XT cassette and 9 speed XT rear derailleur with XT shifters, all parts bought on the Hub. My question though: it seems the 8 speed chain is compatible with the 9 speed casette! There is no fouling issues at all! Anybody else experienced thus as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmobile Posted June 25, 2015 Share Okay so does anyone run a 11speed chain on a 10speed cassette or is that a no go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted June 25, 2015 Share Okay so does anyone run a 11speed chain on a 10speed cassette or is that a no go?Apparently perfectly acceptable, no problem whatsoever just not the other way, ie 10sp chain on 11sp cass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mar Posted July 4, 2015 Share My gears keeping on 'skipping' on 2/3/4. It also change up or down immediately.It's bloody annoying, as soon as I want to put down some power, it jumps. Any help would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted July 4, 2015 Share My gears keeping on 'skipping' on 2/3/4. It also change up or down immediately.It's bloody annoying, as soon as I want to put down some power, it jumps. Any help would be appreciated.Is that the small cogs on the cass? Probably the chain and/or cass is worn out, get the wallet out. I find my 11t cog wears out faster than the rest but you can buy replacements for that so I just drop that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky DQ Posted July 4, 2015 Share Yes i have read the whole thread. My question is what is an average mileage for a Chain or Gear and Chain? That comment of around 3000 seems a bit low.Frail we are talking MTB here. Not Road. Road l get 10k + MTB 1.5k if I do not look after it and about 3k max of I do. (swapping chains and cleaning after every ride etc.) On 2 x 10 or 3 x 10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawnvan Posted July 27, 2015 Share Ok guys So since reading J Borman's pdf "bible" on chains / lubing etc, i have religeously only used a mineral oil on my bike chains (only road bikes), and never any wax based lubes. However, recent sturdies by Friction Facts have shown that normal parrafin wax (ie cheapo candles) is the most efficient lube in terms of saving chain friction watts. You may have seen some of the TDF pro teams (Incl Qubeka - http://cdn.velonews.competitor.com/files/2015/07/20150712-20150712-DSC_4977.jpg)now using this on their chains for time trials. All you do is melt wax under low heat until liquid, dip the chain in and remount. The chain stays clean (dirt doesn't stick) and is super efficient, far more so than other lubes, oil or wax-based. Apparently it lasts 500-600km and then needs to be reapplied Anyone tried this? Thoughts? Experiences? (Note I appreciate that it may not be as good as normal oil for chain longevity, but for once off / speacial races and TTs where you need to save every Watt you can it may be worth it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divernick Posted August 5, 2015 Share Just a note on something that I've tried and works. I bought a NOS frame on the cheap and built her up with parts I had lying about. The interesting part is that I'm using 9-speed Tiagra shifters with a 10-speed 105 crank and RD on a 9-speed cassette with a 10-speed chain. Works like a charm. Edited August 5, 2015 by divernick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted August 24, 2015 Share What is the cheapest way to upgrade from 3x10 to 1x10 ?Just put your 3x10 in the middle ring or big ring as you prefer and stop using the front shifter.... It's Free On my 2x10 29er I bought a 34t NW, a 42T extender and a 16T to replace the 15t and 17t on my existing XT cassette. Got all the stuff from Kalbo for under R1.5k and it included spacer washers which were needed to sort the chainline. I also needed to get some longer chainring bolts but if you are on 3x10 you will already have these (they hold your middle and big ring on the crank) and you may not need the spacers. You should be able to fit the NW chainring on the middle position of your 3x crank butI have not converted a 3x before....dunno if there are issues. You will need a cassette where the smaller rings can be separated, so you can toss out the 15t and 17t and replace with a 16t....on some of the lower priced cassettes the smaller rings are pinned together so budget for an XT cassette if your 15t and 17t cannot be separated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted August 24, 2015 Share My gears keeping on 'skipping' on 2/3/4. It also change up or down immediately.It's bloody annoying, as soon as I want to put down some power, it jumps. Any help would be appreciated. If they keep changing up or down under power the RD pivots may be worn. If you are powering and the RD tries to change, the chain can slip when it shifts. Make sure the RD hanger is not bent and the RD pivots are not loose, then set RD adjustment. Maybe also lube the RD (and wipe off excess) and consider a new cable. If the gear teeth are slipping under power, but staying in the same gear, this is a separate problem caused by worn gears and/or chain. It can also appear when you fit a new chain to worn gears. The cure is a new cassette if you can't find replacements for the worn gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johannrissik Posted August 24, 2015 Share Ok guys So since reading J Borman's pdf "bible" on chains / lubing etc, i have religeously only used a mineral oil on my bike chains (only road bikes), and never any wax based lubes. However, recent sturdies by Friction Facts have shown that normal parrafin wax (ie cheapo candles) is the most efficient lube in terms of saving chain friction watts. You may have seen some of the TDF pro teams (Incl Qubeka - http://cdn.velonews.competitor.com/files/2015/07/20150712-20150712-DSC_4977.jpg)now using this on their chains for time trials. All you do is melt wax under low heat until liquid, dip the chain in and remount. The chain stays clean (dirt doesn't stick) and is super efficient, far more so than other lubes, oil or wax-based. Apparently it lasts 500-600km and then needs to be reapplied Anyone tried this? Thoughts? Experiences? (Note I appreciate that it may not be as good as normal oil for chain longevity, but for once off / speacial races and TTs where you need to save every Watt you can it may be worth it). For a few years I did the "soak the chain in molten wax mix" trick. (Paraffin wax, beeswax, graphite powder) Every week. Chains lasted very well BUT I think it was because the chains were kept very clean and the fact that I was riding on dry gravel roads, not due to the wax (wax is not a lubricant under those conditions). It's an ongoing debate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerfan Posted August 29, 2015 Share Often you will find bad shifting as mentioned here because the cable has been pulled to tight when tightening it to the RD. This throws out your limit screw settings badly. No matter how hard you adjust the cable tension on the barrel adjusters it won't help. Try replacing the cable to start with(this is the cheapest fix and can only help) then only use finger tension when pulling the cable tight at the RD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ans and Sue Posted September 7, 2015 Share I am not very technical minded but have a fair dose of common sense. But that means nothing when dealing with chains, cables, derailleurs etc I had a good old crash yesterday and my shimano rear shifter is kaput. klaar . gedaan. Cable have a kink and so on. I decided just to remove the cable and shifter, since shifter will have to be replaced or repaired. I have a two by ten, which now is a one by ten???? Can I go ahead and mtb until I can replace or fix??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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