Selecting the right "tools for the job" - what type of bike should I buy?

[Mojoman]

By the way, as a matter of interest, what criteria do YOU use when buying a new mountain bike or upgrading your current one? On what do you base your selection?

On how much money I have available!

[Enticement]

On how much money I have available!

 

That is ultimately true, but what if you can, for the same price you can afford, get a dual suspension or hard tail, 6' or 4' travel, 26er or 29er, better components or better frame, racing geometry or trail bike? How do you make your selection?

[Escapee..]

[Enticement]

 

???

[DR ◣◢]

 

Brilliant!

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

???

 

the reference was to your scare-mongering and over-complication of the whole bike choice scenario.

 

Buy what works for you.

 

If you race XCO, then a 29er HT would suit you, unless you prefer the feel of a 650b (yes, it is possible to prefer how a bike feels!)

If Marathon / Cross Country - 26DS / 29HT / 29DS with an emphasis on 29DS. Again, if you're racing. If you're wanting to have fun, or do more than just long distance monotony, go for the 26 DS. It will be more versatile than the 29 HT & DS.

If playing on the trails / weekend warrior - 29 long travel DS / 26 long travel DS. Easy. More emphasis on the 26er due to low availability of LT 29ers. Also 26" long travel hardtail as an option if you're looking for a "pure" experience.

If All Mountain - 26" 140mm plus DS.

If Freeride - 26" 160 - 180mm DS

If downhill - 26" Downhill machine.

 

As for RS vs Fox vs XFusion etc

 

X Fusion will be more value for money vs RS

RS is more value for money than Fox

Fox is moer expensive for the same performance as you get with RS & X Fusion

 

Wheels

 

Lighter is better

Stronger is best

Always go for a set that is stronger than you think it needs to be

Most bearing systems are the same, except in the case of Shimano's old cup n cone variety which needs constant attention

 

Brakes

 

Personal preference really, but Clarks / Tektro SUCK!

Avid need to be bled properly (ie: with patience) whereas Hope / Shimano / Formula just WORK.

For DH / Aggresive trail - get 4 piston calipers on the front.

 

Bars

 

Wider = more control

Narrower = more twitchy (less confidence inspiring)

 

Stem

 

Shorter = more control

Longer = more twitchy (as above)

 

Rotor rings - maximizing pedal stroke efficiency but too expensive to warrant purchase for the majority of cyclists out there, and more to the point, not worth it unless you're following a tailored training plan that includes pedalling analysis and modification at the highest level. IOW - not worth it for Joe Average.

 

Nipples - always brass. Aluminium ones corrode over time

 

Dropper posts - becoming a necessity as we all get more technically proficient and realize that a saddle up the arse is the easiest way for concentration to lapse.

 

AND EDIT: Internal Gearing as a valid choice for everyone!? WHAAAAAT? The last time I looked it only came standard on some commuter bikes (inner city specific uni-taskers) in the form of Rohloff hubs and SOME DH bikes in the form of the Hammerschmidt system. It's heavy, ungainly and cannot reliably be shifted under load. Which effectively removes it from any equation until the guys develop a gearbox that WILL work under power - which still has to happen, btw. Unless they guys want a bike solely for commuting. In which case I'd recommend a single speed due to the low maintenance and ease of use.

 

 

Seriously guy, it's all there. It's all HERE on this forum. Stop trying to charge people for your version of "advice" when it is nothing more than a sugar-coated info-fest.

 

bottom line - people buy bikes that they LIKE. And what works for THEM. You'll never sell me a 100mm travel 29er DS or HT, because it's not what I WANT.

 

And yes - people are swayed by looks. We live in a material world where appearance is a big thing.

Edited August 13, 2012 by cptmayhem

[Robrider]

the reference was to your scare-mongering and over-complication of the whole bike choice scenario. Buy what works for you. If you race XCO, then a 29er HT would suit you, unless you prefer the feel of a 650b (yes, it is possible to prefer how a bike feels!) If Marathon / Cross Country - 26DS / 29HT / 29DS with an emphasis on 29DS. Again, if you're racing. If you're wanting to have fun, or do more than just long distance monotony, go for the 26 DS. It will be more versatile than the 29 HT & DS. If playing on the trails / weekend warrior - 29 long travel DS / 26 long travel DS. Easy. More emphasis on the 26er due to low availability of LT 29ers. Also 26" long travel hardtail as an option if you're looking for a "pure" experience. If All Mountain - 26" 140mm plus DS. If Freeride - 26" 160 - 180mm DS If downhill - 26" Downhill machine. As for RS vs Fox vs XFusion etc X Fusion will be more value for money vs RS RS is more value for money than Fox Fox is moer expensive for the same performance as you get with RS & X Fusion Wheels Lighter is better Stronger is best Always go for a set that is stronger than you think it needs to be Most bearing systems are the same, except in the case of Shimano's old cup n cone variety which needs constant attention Brakes Personal preference really, but Clarks / Tektro SUCK! Avid need to be bled properly (ie: with patience) whereas Hope / Shimano / Formula just WORK. For DH / Aggresive trail - get 4 piston calipers on the front. Bars Wider = more control Narrower = more twitchy (less confidence inspiring) Stem Shorter = more control Longer = more twitchy (as above) Rotor rings - maximizing pedal stroke efficiency but too expensive to warrant purchase for the majority of cyclists out there, and more to the point, not worth it unless you're following a tailored training plan that includes pedalling analysis and modification at the highest level. IOW - not worth it for Joe Average. Nipples - always brass. Aluminium ones corrode over time Dropper posts - becoming a necessity as we all get more technically proficient and realize that a saddle up the arse is the easiest way for concentration to lapse. Seriously guy, it's all there. It's all HERE on this forum. Stop trying to charge people for your version of "advice" when it is nothing more than a sugar-coated info-fest. bottom line - people buy bikes that they LIKE. And what works for THEM. You'll never sell me a 100mm travel 29er DS or HT, because it's not what I WANT. And yes - people are swayed by looks. We live in a material world where appearance is a big thing.

 

Post of the year

[Grebel]

That is ultimately true, but what if you can, for the same price you can afford, get a dual suspension or hard tail, 6' or 4' travel, 26er or 29er, better components or better frame, racing geometry or trail bike? How do you make your selection?

 

Perhaps you could add to your services. People in general need to feel that they are getting value for money. After the right tool for the job has been selected, what about accessories? Helmets for example. Bell vs Giro? Saddle Bag vs Camelbak for carrying tools? What hydration pack? Should I ride flats or clips? Flat bar vs riser bar? Bar ends on a riser bar or not? What are the best socks for MTB? Why limit yourself to MTB? Expand your field of expertise to road as well! Should I shave my legs or not? Tools in a saddle bag or in a bottle (Maybe even carry them in my jersey pockets)? Can I wear my Camelbak on my road bike?

 

The opportunities are endless! There must be countless unmade decisions out there balancing on a knife edge just waiting to be made that need your help. I just wish you were around 7 years ago when I bought my bike. I had a choice between a BMX, a hybrid and a HT 26" MTB. I sometime lie in bed wondering if I had made the right decision and whether I shouldn't have taken that hybrid......

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

I sometime lie in bed wondering if I had made the right decision and whether I shouldn't have taken that hybrid......

 

 

HAHAHA!!! It would have been SO out of place at Giba. The BMX would have made sense if Q'burgh & Lahee park BMX tracks were still okay and in a good state, but the MTB was the one to go for.

 

Now - That will be R 349.95 please. I also accept beer.

[Grebel]

HAHAHA!!! It would have been SO out of place at Giba. The BMX would have made sense if Q'burgh & Lahee park BMX tracks were still okay and in a good state, but the MTB was the one to go for.

 

Now - That will be R 349.95 please. I also accept beer.

 

Would you mind running a tab?

 

I reckon with a bit of instruction, I could have manualled that hybrid....

[scotty]

LoL, but there is reason in the thread, certain bikes suit a certain style of riding and rider. Every day we see a newbie posting a question on what bike to buy with various suggestions. All the magazines have regular tests, the latest Tread has gone where no other mag has and included 26 vs 27.5 vs 29 debate with the pro's and cons.

Edited August 13, 2012 by scotty

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Would you mind running a tab?

 

I reckon with a bit of instruction, I could have manualled that hybrid....

 

LOL. *could have.

 

But yeah, I had a hybrid when I was in London. Commuting every day on a 53*11. Damn, that was good work! And yes, I did manual it when I needed to...

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

LoL, but there is reason in the thread, certain bikes suit a certain style of riding and rider. Every day we see a newbie posting a question on what bike to buy with various suggestions. All the magazines have regular tests, the latest Tread has gone where no other mag has and included 26 vs 27.5 vs 29 debate with the pro's and cons.

 

Yeah, exactly why I posted my diatribe. It's a lot simpler than it sounds. What riding will I do most of the time. Right. That means my options are x, y, and z. But I do this, so that rules out y. Now, which one of x & z do I prefer?

[Grebel]

What is this Dugast? I thought it was what you got from mixing Ducurry with Dubeer...

[Enticement]

the reference was to your scare-mongering and over-complication of the whole bike choice scenario. Buy what works for you. If you race XCO, then a 29er HT would suit you, unless you prefer the feel of a 650b (yes, it is possible to prefer how a bike feels!) If Marathon / Cross Country - 26DS / 29HT / 29DS with an emphasis on 29DS. Again, if you're racing. If you're wanting to have fun, or do more than just long distance monotony, go for the 26 DS. It will be more versatile than the 29 HT & DS. If playing on the trails / weekend warrior - 29 long travel DS / 26 long travel DS. Easy. More emphasis on the 26er due to low availability of LT 29ers. Also 26" long travel hardtail as an option if you're looking for a "pure" experience. If All Mountain - 26" 140mm plus DS. If Freeride - 26" 160 - 180mm DS If downhill - 26" Downhill machine. As for RS vs Fox vs XFusion etc X Fusion will be more value for money vs RS RS is more value for money than Fox Fox is moer expensive for the same performance as you get with RS & X Fusion Wheels Lighter is better Stronger is best Always go for a set that is stronger than you think it needs to be Most bearing systems are the same, except in the case of Shimano's old cup n cone variety which needs constant attention Brakes Personal preference really, but Clarks / Tektro SUCK! Avid need to be bled properly (ie: with patience) whereas Hope / Shimano / Formula just WORK. For DH / Aggresive trail - get 4 piston calipers on the front. Bars Wider = more control Narrower = more twitchy (less confidence inspiring) Stem Shorter = more control Longer = more twitchy (as above) Rotor rings - maximizing pedal stroke efficiency but too expensive to warrant purchase for the majority of cyclists out there, and more to the point, not worth it unless you're following a tailored training plan that includes pedalling analysis and modification at the highest level. IOW - not worth it for Joe Average. Nipples - always brass. Aluminium ones corrode over time Dropper posts - becoming a necessity as we all get more technically proficient and realize that a saddle up the arse is the easiest way for concentration to lapse. AND EDIT: Internal Gearing as a valid choice for everyone!? WHAAAAAT? The last time I looked it only came standard on some commuter bikes (inner city specific uni-taskers) in the form of Rohloff hubs and SOME DH bikes in the form of the Hammerschmidt system. It's heavy, ungainly and cannot reliably be shifted under load. Which effectively removes it from any equation until the guys develop a gearbox that WILL work under power - which still has to happen, btw. Unless they guys want a bike solely for commuting. In which case I'd recommend a single speed due to the low maintenance and ease of use. Seriously guy, it's all there. It's all HERE on this forum. Stop trying to charge people for your version of "advice" when it is nothing more than a sugar-coated info-fest. bottom line - people buy bikes that they LIKE. And what works for THEM. You'll never sell me a 100mm travel 29er DS or HT, because it's not what I WANT. And yes - people are swayed by looks. We live in a material world where appearance is a big thing.

 

Thanks for simplifying with your version - from your response it seems pretty much a black-and-white issue! As for some of your advice: I'm glad I don't have to send my clients to you. Maybe you should try my "sugar-coated info fest" for experiencing the value of real advice, not preconceived personal ideas !

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Thanks for simplifying with your version - from your response it seems pretty much a black-and-white issue! As for some of your advice: I'm glad I don't have to send my clients to you. Maybe you should try my "sugar-coated info fest" for experiencing the value of real advice, not preconceived personal ideas !

 

Thanks, buddy. I live on your expectations and recognition. Really, I do.

 

And yes, it is pretty much a black and white issue. Would you recommend a 170mm 26" Dual susser to a guy who is looking at getting into racing on the local XC circuit? Would you recommend a 100mm 29er hardtail to someone who is just looking at pottering around the trails or looking for a machine that can take the punishment that a hard day on the trails with 4ft drops would give?

 

Would you recommend a rohloff hub to Burry? Would you recommend that I get a bio-pace crank or an indoor trainer that has full power meter functionality?

 

As for blurred lines - they only exist when folks like you sit on them and rub them out in the hope of getting clients to run to you saying that they don't know what bike out of a Scale 950 or Anthem X0 or Flash 1 to get. Or if they should rather use their money to buy something that will do the job of standing up to the punishment that Tokai / Giba / Jonkers could give.