patches Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 Long brake hose = bar spins! or in my case... laziness
ThePubSA Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 Long brake hose = bar spins!No front brake = bar spins
DubbelBuys Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 Master NFNF, is this ok? Nevermind the hoses long or short... different strokes for different folks. What hoses are those? I wanted to fit colour hoses on my slx, but couldn't find 'nice' colours
patches Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 Nevermind the hoses long or short... different strokes for different folks. What hoses are those? I wanted to fit colour hoses on my slx, but couldn't find 'nice' colours That's a Goodridge conversion. Higher volume (more fluid) and less flex under pressure. There fore more power and less fade. ...but they look cool too!
DubbelBuys Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 That's a Goodridge conversion. Higher volume (more fluid) and less flex under pressure. There fore more power and less fade. ...but they look cool too! Where can i get those goodridge hoses?
BikeBailing Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 Master NFNF, is this ok? Are airbag sessions still happening?
Hairy Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Church-video-2014.html Bar spins somewhere in this clip
Brian Fantana Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 I'm not the smoothest rider, I am aware of that BUT the wrong stroke length effectively means that the suspension doesn't work. And that doesn't inspire confidence when you are a noob trying to become smoother. OK, last night I did a few checks on my bike before Attakwas. I deflated the shock completely, and with the shock compressed completely, there was a 3mm gap between the FD cable guide and the tyre tread. This was with a WTB Bronson 26x2.3 tyre and a 23mm rim with 21mm inner width. The tyre is about 70% worn down though, and a new one will definitely touch the cable guide (they have huge knobs). But I also fitted a new rear tyre, a Maxxis Ardent 26x2.25 and with the shock completely compressed there is a nice 4mm gap between the guide and the tyre tread. With a wider rim such as a ZTR flow or WTB i23, the gap will be even bigger because the wider rim will pull the tyre flatter, thereby reducing the overall diameter a fraction. So rim and tyre width can solve the problem to a certain extent, not ideal, but a nice work-around solution. Bottom line, the stroke length is incorrect and ideally a shock with 50mm stroke length should be fitted. Regarding the DHX shock, I believe those were designed to give a very linear feel, while the Monarch is more progressive which might also make a difference in our perceptions of the bike.
DubbelBuys Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 CRC Cool thx. Checked a few months ago & they didn't have stock. How would I go about crimping the correct fittings for my brakes?Any special tools needed?
RockCoach Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 OK, last night I did a few checks on my bike before Attakwas. I deflated the shock completely, and with the shock compressed completely, there was a 3mm gap between the FD cable guide and the tyre tread. This was with a WTB Bronson 26x2.3 tyre and a 23mm rim with 21mm inner width. The tyre is about 70% worn down though, and a new one will definitely touch the cable guide (they have huge knobs). But I also fitted a new rear tyre, a Maxxis Ardent 26x2.25 and with the shock completely compressed there is a nice 4mm gap between the guide and the tyre tread. With a wider rim such as a ZTR flow or WTB i23, the gap will be even bigger because the wider rim will pull the tyre flatter, thereby reducing the overall diameter a fraction. So rim and tyre width can solve the problem to a certain extent, not ideal, but a nice work-around solution. Bottom line, the stroke length is incorrect and ideally a shock with 50mm stroke length should be fitted. Regarding the DHX shock, I believe those were designed to give a very linear feel, while the Monarch is more progressive which might also make a difference in our perceptions of the bike. Sidewinder has wide Subrosa rims and WTB Wolverine which is less volume than a Bronson.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 Sidewinder has wide Subrosa rims and WTB Wolverine which is less volume than a Bronson. Dude, those Wolverine 2.2's are FAT. They're the same or bigger than a 2.3 Weirwolf and 2.5 Minion. Smaller knobs, of course, but just as big.
RockCoach Posted January 16, 2014 Author Posted January 16, 2014 Dude, those Wolverine 2.2's are FAT. They're the same or bigger than a 2.3 Weirwolf and 2.5 Minion. Smaller knobs, of course, but just as big. They are quite fat. I know... but smaller than a Bronson. I have just switched from a Bronson to Wolverine at the rear. On a few occasions I have missed the extra volume of the Bronsons.
patches Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 They are quite fat. I know... but smaller than a Bronson. I have just switched from a Bronson to Wolverine at the rear. On a few occasions I have missed the extra volume of the Bronsons. Just get a choob job!
Flowta Posted January 19, 2014 Posted January 19, 2014 I have this GT Force 1.0 up for grabs https://www.bikehub.co.za/classifieds/76230-gt-force-10-medium/
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