Hairy Posted February 7, 2014 Posted February 7, 2014 Do the right thing and get your wife a 120/140mm fork
NicoBoshoff Posted February 7, 2014 Posted February 7, 2014 Do the right thing and get your wife a 120/140mm fork Only if you're buying Long term I'll upgrade to a 120mm fork if I can find one for a fair price. For now this will be fine as a XC/Trail machine to do the odd Enduro race on. The foundations are laid for a great bike.
LazyTrailRider Posted February 7, 2014 Posted February 7, 2014 My wife's new ride (Trance X1). Only running 100mm Fox up front but she's tiny and the 120mm RP23 at the back is plenty. Full XT drivetrain (2x10) with SLX shifting, Elixer 4 stopping, Mavic Crossmax SL SSC wheels on mavic hubs, Specialized cockpit (60mm stem 720mm bars). Nice ride! Ilze approves.
hayleyearth Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 My wife's new ride (Trance X1). Only running 100mm Fox up front but she's tiny and the 120mm RP23 at the back is plenty. How much travel you use go nothing to do with your size I would have appreciated it if my hubby would have given me gifts like those
hayleyearth Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Spent quite a bit of quality time this weekend with my Monster.After this ride we went home and we started the strip party. Yesterday even the cassette was stripped and cleaned properly. The BB can go no futher! (It did about 3000km - I did stip and clean somewhere in the middle of that time though).Now to go put it all back - changes will incl leaving off the chainguide and chainring, adding NW and putting new cranks on.
DR ◣◢ Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Spent quite a bit of quality time this weekend with my Monster.After this ride we went home and we started the strip party. Yesterday even the cassette was stripped and cleaned properly. The BB can go no futher! (It did about 3000km - I did stip and clean somewhere in the middle of that time though).Now to go put it all back - changes will incl leaving off the chainguide and chainring, adding NW and putting new cranks on. I might be interested in the chainguide if you decide to get rid of it.
ThePubSA Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Spent quite a bit of quality time this weekend with my Monster.After this ride we went home and we started the strip party. Yesterday even the cassette was stripped and cleaned properly. The BB can go no futher! (It did about 3000km - I did stip and clean somewhere in the middle of that time though).Now to go put it all back - changes will incl leaving off the chainguide and chainring, adding NW and putting new cranks on.Run your front brake cable on the inside
hayleyearth Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Run your front brake cable on the inside The inside of what? The rear brake cable?It actually is attached to it, looks like it is standing far off, but it isnt. I could have made it shorter, but a few times now after crazy falls where the bars were spinned around and cables were pulled tight I was glad I didnt. Also when taking the bars off when packing the bike in a box (for fluing) the cables are the right length. If it was shorter I wouldnt have been able to put the bars on the top tube. But yes, it doesnt look 100%
Iwan Kemp Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 The inside of what? The rear brake cable?Inside of your fork lower. Killer looking bike, btw.
Flowta Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 The inside of what? The rear brake cable?It actually is attached to it, looks like it is standing far off, but it isnt. I could have made it shorter, but a few times now after crazy falls where the bars were spinned around and cables were pulled tight I was glad I didnt. Also when taking the bars off when packing the bike in a box (for fluing) the cables are the right length. If it was shorter I wouldnt have been able to put the bars on the top tube. But yes, it doesnt look 100% Front Brake cable, run on the inside of the fork
DR ◣◢ Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Front Brake cable, run on the inside of the fork Rear should run inside the frame also. That is one rock smash away from a very bad accident.
hayleyearth Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Inside of your fork lower. Killer looking bike, btw. Front Brake cable, run on the inside of the fork I am always scared of that...Ill do it and then send you guys a pic of the clearance.Someone please send me a pic of where exactly it should go in, cause there is no space for that next to the fat tyres!
hayleyearth Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Rear should run inside the frame also. That is one rock smash away from a very bad accident. Oh no....if I hot a rock there I must stop riding all together. This also will make wheel removal more of a pain for me.
Iwan Kemp Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 I am always scared of that...Ill do it and then send you guys a pic of the clearance.Someone please send me a pic of where exactly it should go in, cause there is no space for that next to the fat tyres! Will take one tonight to post. With the angle of the house guide it pulls the house away from the tyre. Just make sure there is no slack in it from the calliper to the guide.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Like this,,,, Or this...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Oh and if you do it properly, there's zero chance of rubbing or interference with the wheel removal. And trust me - you CAN hit a rock there! Even if you just lean it up against something and it snags. Bubye hose. bubye back brake. It's far better to route it inside the frame.
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