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Posted

Hi Guys,

 

I currently ride with a 11-25 cassette and want to buy another cassette for my other wheels. I find with 11-25 im always at the top end (easy) gear. So I want to get a 12-27 or perhaps a 12-29 even. This is to help with my climbing and keeping my cadence up a bit.

 

How big of a jump is it? do two extra teeth make any diff or should i go straight to 29?

 

Any help from experience will be appreciated

Posted

Do you have standard cranks? if so why not look at getting compact cranks?

 

Yeah i have a STD crank. previous bike had a compact crank - perhaps that is the way to go?

Posted

Changing the cassette will be much cheaper than changing cranks.

 

Using a 27 will make a slight difference, but try to work your way back to a 25 or even a 23 as soon as possible.

 

The group isn't going to wait while you spin up the hills in your 27....

Posted

Also bear in mind if it is Shimano, you can combine the two cassettes ie make a 11-27, so you don't lose the benefit of the 11 on the flats.

 

Once again, the group won't wait while you are spinning in your 12 on the flats while they are cruising on an 11

Posted

Changing the cassette will be much cheaper than changing cranks.

 

Using a 27 will make a slight difference, but try to work your way back to a 25 or even a 23 as soon as possible.

 

The group isn't going to wait while you spin up the hills in your 27....

 

It will be cheaper but given what the OP asked I think compact might be the better option, the 2 extra teeth wont make that much of a difference whereas the compact cranks will make a significant change to gearing.

 

As for the group waiting, its not to say he's going to be slower just because he's riding a higher cadence, take Froome Dog for example, he spins like a mad man on the climbs and no one waits for him. ;)

Posted

It will be cheaper but given what the OP asked I think compact might be the better option, the 2 extra teeth wont make that much of a difference whereas the compact cranks will make a significant change to gearing.

 

As for the group waiting, its not to say he's going to be slower just because he's riding a higher cadence, take Froome Dog for example, he spins like a mad man on the climbs and no one waits for him. ;)

 

Very true. It depends a lot on riding style.

Posted

so i have a 12 and 26 or 27 not sure but on the argus got dropped on the downhill, are you saying i can swop the 12 for 11 without having to change the whole casette?

Posted

I went from 11-28 to 12-23 and nearly died. Don't find the tint gear too important as you don't actually ride in it all that often. The big one, however, makes a massive difference. 28 is perfect for me on the hills, and my 105 cassettes next gear down is a 26, so can stand and climb on that and sit on the 28 when things get tired. And on super steep gradients its a perfect gear too. I ride a standard crank too.

 

Just my two cents. My heavy ass wouldn't survive on a 25 on the hills around here in bedfordview!

Posted

I changed from a 11-28 to a 12-27 cassette. It doesn't matter what cassette you have at the back if you don't have the cadence to keep it moving. My top cadence is 168, I can't maintain this for long but long enough to get in your slip and stay there downhill or straight.

 

I don't know of many people non-elite riders who can power a 53 crank with a 11 ring at the back on the flats at 100 cadence.

 

Better to work on your leg speed than worrying about a 11 ring.

 

My 2 cents.

Posted

There aren’t too many amateur cyclists that can efficiently turn a 53/11 and get more speed (not power) than if they were using a 53/12, couple that with the fact that most of our races in SA are relatively flat when compared to say Europe so you’re not going to have massive downhills where you’ll run out of gears with a 53/12 and someone with a 53/11 is going to ride you off, you’ll also not be faster on a flat because of the 11 unless you’re Greipel! I’d say 99% of amateur cyclists don’t need anything more than a 53/12 and someone looking for higher gears on the back is a prime candidate for compacts.

 

I ride compact cranks and race licensed vets, the only time I’m out the back is when I haven’t trained, even on rides like Panorama which have some of the biggest downhills on our calendar I’m able to hold the bunch albeit at a very high cadence.

Posted

I think the only time you need a 27 is when the grade goes steeper than say 7-8%. How often would that be? With the relatively flat races in SA, you won't need it. And then in training, you forced to push the 25. More strength gained.

Posted

There aren’t too many amateur cyclists that can efficiently turn a 53/11 and get more speed (not power) than if they were using a 53/12, couple that with the fact that most of our races in SA are relatively flat when compared to say Europe so you’re not going to have massive downhills where you’ll run out of gears with a 53/12 and someone with a 53/11 is going to ride you off, you’ll also not be faster on a flat because of the 11 unless you’re Greipel! I’d say 99% of amateur cyclists don’t need anything more than a 53/12 and someone looking for higher gears on the back is a prime candidate for compacts.

 

I ride compact cranks and race licensed vets, the only time I’m out the back is when I haven’t trained, even on rides like Panorama which have some of the biggest downhills on our calendar I’m able to hold the bunch albeit at a very high cadence.

 

thanks i will stick to what i have then

Posted

I recently switched to a compact not out of choice though and the hardest adjustment has been finding the sweet spot when on a 34 chainring. On the same climbs though where I was using a 39/25 im using a 34/19 or 21. I do find though that I switch more to the big ring now when on flats where in the past I was comfortable staying onthe 39/12. Work out your current ratios compared to what your new ratios would be. It is cheaper though to switch cassettes.

 

Gear ratio is: chainring teeth divided by cassette teeth multiplied by wheel size

Example: 39/25 x 27.5 (700c) = 42.9 inch ratio.

Posted

I recently switched to a compact not out of choice though and the hardest adjustment has been finding the sweet spot when on a 34 chainring. On the same climbs though where I was using a 39/25 im using a 34/19 or 21. I do find though that I switch more to the big ring now when on flats where in the past I was comfortable staying onthe 39/12. Work out your current ratios compared to what your new ratios would be. It is cheaper though to switch cassettes.

 

Gear ratio is: chainring teeth divided by cassette teeth multiplied by wheel size

Example: 39/25 x 27.5 (700c) = 42.9 inch ratio.

 

or just download the gearing app for Android or iPhone :D

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