Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

It's already trickled down - my XT RD has it.

 

Shadow is the generic name for low profile Shimano RD.

Shadow+ refers to the low profile cammed RD.

 

Edit: 2013 SLX has a cam.

Deore also has it

  • Replies 355
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Deore also has it

 

Trickle down confirmed :-)

 

It's a great system - much quieter and less paint removal on the chainstays! Flip the switch and the wheel comes off easy like.

Posted

It's already trickled down - my XT RD has it.

 

Shadow is the generic name for low profile Shimano RD.

Shadow+ refers to the low profile cammed RD.

 

There's almost an entire range of Shadow + ("Clutch") Shimano RD's...

 

In descending order...

 

http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/news_and_info/news/shimano_xtr_shadow.image.-Article-Single-image.dash.350.349.jpeg

 

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51JNXt7CFXL._SY300_.jpg

 

http://www.biketiresdirect.com/productimages/images450/shxdr3-1.jpg

 

http://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/2013-Shimano-Zee-shadow-plus-rear-derailleur01.jpg

 

http://www.tnc-hamburg.com/TNC-Shop/images/product_images/info_images/24360_0_Schaltwerk_Shimano_SLX_RDM675GS_Shadow_Plus.jpg

 

and the latest one to receive the "trickle down"...

 

http://www.ride.ch/site/images/stories/news-produkte/2013/Bildschirmfoto_2013-03-01_um_20.22.42.png

 

Saint and Zee only come in Shadow + options.

 

As for the "lock forward" feature... I have a Saint and that doesn't have it. Only an engage/disengage switch for the clutch. Don't know about the XTR though

Posted

Here's a pic of the SRAM Type 2 "locking open" for easy chain handling

 

http://factoryjackson.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/X0-Type-2-Mech-05-620x445.jpg

Posted (edited)

There's almost an entire range of Shadow + ("Clutch") Shimano RD's...

 

In descending order...

 

 

 

and the latest one to receive the "trickle down"...

 

 

 

Saint and Zee only come in Shadow + options.

 

As for the "lock forward" feature... I have a Saint and that doesn't have it. Only an engage/disengage switch for the clutch. Don't know about the XTR though

 

On a completely different note - man I love the gold bling on the XTR/Saint.

 

One of my dream builds is a chinese frame with zero branding and a combo of saint/xtr components and lots of gold Loaded bits for a black and gold uberbike.

 

Sadly this bike is about 7th on the list of dream bikes!

 

Too many dreams and/or not enough money....

Edited by Eldron
Posted

On a completely different note - man I love the gold bling on the XTR/Saint.

 

One of my dream builds is a chinese frame with zero branding and a combo of saint/xtr components and lots of gold Loaded bits for a black and gold uberbike.

 

Sadly this bike is about 7th on the list of dream bikes!

 

Too many dreams and/or not enough money....

 

Then the Yumeya upgrades to the previous XTR model might just do it for you...

 

20090709_071722_shimano_yumeya.jpg

Posted

Stop it evil man. Begone with you!!!!!!

 

http://www.sicklines.com/news-images/hope-tech-x2-gold.jpg

 

http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb7225259/p4pb7225259.jpg

 

MUAWAHAHAHAHA! :devil:

Posted

Is a valid point ! As it seems to be the new trend and everyone rushing off to buy the necessary parts and expect it to work by just slapping it on the bike... without bothering to research or read up on the correct setup.

 

As Eldron alluded to, would you service your car with new spark plugs and expect it to run good if you just put them in, or would you first read up on what the spark plug gap should be and adjust the plugs accordingly before putting in the car?

 

Same should be for the clutch RD, NW chainring and chain length adjusted accoringly to your bike and setup.

 

There is something to be said for correct chain lenght on any bike, whether 1x10, 2x10 or 3x10

 

For some peolpe, like myself, we have no idea on how the adjustment to chain length should be calculated.

My MO is buy new chain, count old chain links, measure out new ones and cut to size.

Ho would the chain length differ going from a 3x10 to a 1x 10 setup if you don't mind helping?

Posted

Is a valid point ! As it seems to be the new trend and everyone rushing off to buy the necessary parts and expect it to work by just slapping it on the bike... without bothering to research or read up on the correct setup.

 

As Eldron alluded to, would you service your car with new spark plugs and expect it to run good if you just put them in, or would you first read up on what the spark plug gap should be and adjust the plugs accordingly before putting in the car?

 

Same should be for the clutch RD, NW chainring and chain length adjusted accoringly to your bike and setup.

 

There is something to be said for correct chain lenght on any bike, whether 1x10, 2x10 or 3x10

 

Its amazing how people rush off and make comments without first looking up the basics - eg the meaning of "sarcasm". :whistling:

 

Serioulsy though you are right, just the way you said it was a tad rude and condescending. As Eldron was saying, (sarcastically) how many of us know how to service our cars, fix our PC's and so on ....

Posted (edited)

For some peolpe, like myself, we have no idea on how the adjustment to chain length should be calculated.

My MO is buy new chain, count old chain links, measure out new ones and cut to size.

Ho would the chain length differ going from a 3x10 to a 1x 10 setup if you don't mind helping?

 

Here a simple explanation on the Sheldon Brown website, look under chain length. http://sheldonbrown....ment.html#chain although there are many other articles that you can read if you google chain lengh calculation.

 

Basically if you are using your old chain, then you are going from say a 2x10 to 1x10 and your biggest chainring has gone from 38/39 to 34 or even 32, then you will have to shorten the chain to suit the new setup. Similarly if as you say, buy a new chain and shorten to same length as old chain then the new chain will be too long for the new 1x10 set-up as the old chain length is for a 2x10.

 

If you don't adjust the chain length and just chainge the front chainring and remove the FD and shifter, then you will likely get chain drop and maybe even shifting problems.

 

I trust this helps.

 

I see the matter of chain length was discussed on page 11, which you can have a look at

Edited by shaper
Posted

 

 

Here a simple explanation on the Sheldon Brown website, look under chain length. http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain although there are many other articles that you can read if you google chain lengh calculation.

 

Basically if you are using your old chain, then you are going from say a 2x10 to 1x10 and your biggest chainring has gone from 38/39 to 34 or even 32, then you will have to shorten the chain to suit the new setup. Similarly if as you say, buy a new chain and shorten to same length as old chain then the new chain will be too long for the new 1x10 set-up as the old chain length is for a 2x10.

 

If you don't adjust the chain length and just chainge the front chainring and remove the FD and shifter, then you will likely get chain drop and maybe even shifting problems.

 

I trust this helps.

 

Yeah. And on my bike, with 170mm rear suspension, on a 1x10 setup an single 34t ring and 11-36 on the back, the correct chain length was the length it came in.

 

Not all bikes are the same, but the chain overlap should be consistent across the same groupsets.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout