BB External bearings - The cheap rebuild

[GuyP]

Hi. Did the bearing replacement. All good.

 

 

 

Only problem is the crank won't go though the bearings. I know that the problem is not with the size of the bearings but rather with the crank as it was a struggle to get it out as well. Has this happened to anyone. Any suggestions on how to fix this.

 

p.s. It fits through the bearings fine, but when the plstic caps have been replaced it won't budge.

 

Do the Eldron thing with the hammer

[The Drongo]

Has anyone made note - even mental note of the lifespan of Aerozine BB's vs Shimano?

 

Although the Aerozine are far more maintenance friendly. they fail far quicker in my exp.

 

Am sure this has something to do with low grade steel etc, but at half the price of Shimano, and half the life of Shimano - you might as well buy Shimano and pedal longer.

[The Drongo]

The ID of the bearing is smaller by .5

 

<img src="https://cdn.bikehub.co.za/uploads2/20090218_133656_DSC02733.JPG" border="0" />

 

100% correct there dirtrider. Which is why you can't run Raceface BB with Shimano and visa versa

[The Drongo]

The test subject . I got no idea what make the purple thing is but it has the same properties as the Race Face and XTR .

 

<img src="https://cdn.bikehub.co.za/uploads2/20090218_134324_DSC02726.JPG" border="0" />

 

The purple/red/pink thing - AEROZINE

 

Crap bearings, but much easier to get the dust seal off, clean and re-pack.

[Bat-ass]

Enduro is the way to go... and cheap too...

Agreed... did some in december, cost R165. my only concern is, you now no longer have that plastic top hat seal between the metal crank shaft and bearing. The shaft runs on the bearing itself, hope the bearing donesnt cause any wear on the shaft?

[The Drongo]

Agreed... did some in december, cost R165. my only concern is, you now no longer have that plastic top hat seal between the metal crank shaft and bearing. The shaft runs on the bearing itself, hope the bearing donesnt cause any wear on the shaft?

 

Not a good idea there bat-ass.

I have a feeling that it is ultimately going to cost you a lot more than a NEW BB.

[Johan Bornman]

Not a good idea there bat-ass.

I have a feeling that it is ultimately going to cost you a lot more than a NEW BB.

 

On the contrary. The shaft does a nice semi-press fit into the bearing and produces no wear. All rotation happens in the bearing, not on the shaft. I've removed several of these after the bearings were kaput and noticed no wear on the crank shaft at all.

 

This really is the way to go to bring those maintenance costs down. Even if you buy the tool from Race Face or Enduro, you'll still save and would have broken even on the first replacement.

 

I have still not come across a single downside of this conversion other than some BB cups are not compatible. A little bit of dumpster diving should produce a compatible set in no time.

[The Drongo]

On the contrary. The shaft does a nice semi-press fit into the bearing and produces no wear. All rotation happens in the bearing, not on the shaft. I've removed several of these after the bearings were kaput and noticed no wear on the crank shaft at all.

 

This really is the way to go to bring those maintenance costs down. Even if you buy the tool from Race Face or Enduro, you'll still save and would have broken even on the first replacement.

 

I have still not come across a single downside of this conversion other than some BB cups are not compatible. A little bit of dumpster diving should produce a compatible set in no time.

 

I do agree in some respects.

As long as maintenance is carried out.

If not the metal to metal contact of bearing on shaft will start to pit and corrode the crank shaft. (as it does in pumps, although admittedly far less water present)

This, of course, will cost a bit more to replace than a BB.

As a slight aside. Has anyone been able to find replacement size bearings for the Aerozine anodised ali. derallieur pulleys?

My 2c worth.

[kosmonooit]

I need to replace bearing in the Hope BB that has the Truvativ GXP reducers in the non-drive side

 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/120/26899.Jpg

 

Could I find a replacement bearing that removes the necessity of using this adapter, ie same OD but ID of the Adapter? Who would that compare with the bearing on the drive side of a Truvativ GXP BB?

 

Cheers.

[Zeps]

I have had 1 'full' and 1 'half' (drive side only) Truvativ GXP MTB BB as well as a Raceface BB 'refurbished' and they are working a treat - at 185 za ronds for a full set it's a bargain and all

[_im_from_earth]

I need to replace bearing in the Hope BB that has the Truvativ GXP reducers in the non-drive side

 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/120/26899.Jpg

 

Could I find a replacement bearing that removes the necessity of using this adapter, ie same OD but ID of the Adapter? Who would that compare with the bearing on the drive side of a Truvativ GXP BB?

 

Cheers.

 

Unfortunately not. The MR27367 bearings are what Enduro use as replacements in all Shimano, Truvativ, FSA and RaceFace applications, and adue to the SRAM/ Truvativ design it required a smaller ID on the non-drive side.

 

I have a few video's posted on Replacing bearings in Shimano, SRAM and Truvativ Outboard Bottom Brackets using the Enduro BRT-001 Outboard BB Tool Set and Enduro Outboard BB Kits.

 

Ciao

[Rydogg]

Yes you do. If you going to do the rebuild you might as well buy the tool and then you never have to worry about removing the cups again as you will have the tool.

 

I used a my oil filter removing tool...

[wayno]

Awesome Info everyone. wish i had looked at this post a week earlier. just replace my bb.

At least I know for next time

[marshace]

Awesome post.

 

Did mine but have one question and a bit of advise:

 

Replacement bearings are marginally wider than the ones that camoe out of my Deore BB.

Has anyone found this as well or do I have wrong bearings (6805)

 

The plastic inserts lifted out, has a small lip which needs to be filed/smoothed off otherwise they squeese closed and you have hard time pushing the cranck through. This means that the other side could move out a bit when cranck is pushed in but can be easily tapped back into position.

 

With the bearings being slightly wider, I now cannot get that litle locking gate thingy to go down before tightening bolts. Take it the hole does not line up now. Not sure its a big deal as with bolts torqued it should be fine.

What to do ????

BB had doule spacer rings on drive side and I could remove one of them.

Any suggestions ???

 

Also found that bearings can range in price from R 14.00 to up to R 90.00. The latter is supose to be stainless steel or what ever but will try cheapies and replace more regularly

 

Help and comments will be appreciated.

 

Thx

 

Eric

[Eldron]

If anyone wants to renew their BB and has two left thumbs then I would recommend this BB:

 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38620

 

I love Shimano but their mtb BB's are shyte! I've had the Token BB (in bling gold of course) for about 7 months and so far no worries in wet or dry. Good buy in my books.

[Johan Bornman]

If anyone wants to renew their BB and has two left thumbs then I would recommend this BB:

 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38620

 

I love Shimano but their mtb BB's are shyte! I've had the Token BB (in bling gold of course) for about 7 months and so far no worries in wet or dry. Good buy in my books.

 

That's an excellent price for a BB. However, I don't see any fundemental differences between that and the similar prodcuts from Shimano, SRAM, FSA etc. The bearing would be the same and the seal (ha ha) is that same plastic cap that goes on the outside of the bearing. Could it be that you've just been lucky for the last 7 months?

 

I think the external BB is the worst thing Shimano has perpetrated in a long time. And that includes some very evil stuff they've done - their crappy brake pads, the new XT/XTR hubs and Biopace.