Roneblack46 Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Yeah, I think so too. I have not dropped once since running my XX1 chainring and X9 type 2 shortcage with 11-36t combo, and as you know I ride gnarly stuff too. Roneblack46, keep us informed about how that short cage handles the large spread that the 42t has created, it will interesting to know... I am running a medium cage Type 2. However if you go to the One Up Components Facebook page you will see one of the MTB magazines tested the 42T with a short cage (ZEE if I am not mistaken) with no problems during their rides. See the tread One Up Components 42T I have started on my experience with the 42T.
NicoBoshoff Posted February 10, 2014 Author Posted February 10, 2014 Your LBS may not be entirely correct. I started having the same issue after many months problem free. Changed chan and front ring as thought they may be worn. Same issue. sprayed some oil in the clutch (after doing a google check) problem solved. Bit more indepth explanation, the roller bearing in the clutch starts to dry out over time especially once you have been riding in alot of mud as i have been with the KZN weather been so wet while i was on holiday. if you take the little black cap off the "clutch" you'll see a rather large torque key ( 8mm allen key works too as it doesnt have to be very tight) take that of and you can get some lube in there and clean it up a bit, close it up and it should be back to 100%. Basically what happens when it drys out is when the cage moves forward after hitting a bump in the road, it jams for a split second giving the chain sufficient time to fall off. Havent had an issue since i did this. Is that the black cap which says Roller Bearing Clutch on it i.e. to the left of the jockey lock?
Headshot Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 I've also had a few dropped chains with my 1x10 (11-36x34RF ring) I adjusted the Shimano clutch to make it tighter and that helped a bit. Yesterday it happened again after a pedal strike down Vasbyt at Tokai. Very irritating indeed. Maybe time for me to do some chain length checking...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 I've also had a few dropped chains with my 1x10 (11-36x34RF ring) I adjusted the Shimano clutch to make it tighter and that helped a bit. Yesterday it happened again after a pedal strike down Vasbyt at Tokai. Very irritating indeed. Maybe time for me to do some chain length checking... Sounds like i need to adjust mine as well (SRAM type 2) as it's making a bit more of a clatter down the trails now. But I've got a long cage... and I ride like a plonker... so it could just be that!
_Pat_ Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Is that the black cap which says Roller Bearing Clutch on it i.e. to the left of the jockey lock? Heres a link with a step by step. I didnt completely pull it apart just took off the cap and sprayed some lube in there. But will probably overhaul it at some stage. http://bicyclingaustralia.com.au/2013/08/sram-type-2-overhaul?page=show
Martin PJ Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 I use 1x10 on 29 hardtail, the chain does drop off when I pedal backwards after going through the bumpy stuff. I noticed that putting more tension in the derailleur spring made a big difference. On the SRAM X7 and X9 you can pull out the clip at the back of the top jockey wheel and the spring will come loose. Then try to put it back in giving an extra half turn on the big spring tension.
Gandalf Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Your LBS may not be entirely correct. I started having the same issue after many months problem free. Changed chan and front ring as thought they may be worn. Same issue. sprayed some oil in the clutch (after doing a google check) problem solved. Bit more indepth explanation, the roller bearing in the clutch starts to dry out over time especially once you have been riding in alot of mud as i have been with the KZN weather been so wet while i was on holiday. if you take the little black cap off the "clutch" you'll see a rather large torque key ( 8mm allen key works too as it doesnt have to be very tight) take that of and you can get some lube in there and clean it up a bit, close it up and it should be back to 100%. Basically what happens when it drys out is when the cage moves forward after hitting a bump in the road, it jams for a split second giving the chain sufficient time to fall off. Havent had an issue since i did this. Which part is the "clutch"? sorry if im behind on the terminology
_Pat_ Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Which part is the "clutch"? sorry if im behind on the terminology Check the link above, gives a step by step guide.
Gandalf Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 Check the link above, gives a step by step guide. Cool thanks. sorry i didnt refresh the page before i posted
NicoBoshoff Posted February 10, 2014 Author Posted February 10, 2014 Check the link above, gives a step by step guide. This seems rather advanced. Do I need to do the whole cage dis-assembly or can I just open the cap, loosen the 8mm bolt and oil what I see?
shade Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 I've also had a few dropped chains with my 1x10 (11-36x34RF ring) I adjusted the Shimano clutch to make it tighter and that helped a bit. Yesterday it happened again after a pedal strike down Vasbyt at Tokai. Very irritating indeed. Maybe time for me to do some chain length checking... ok, I am running a 30T RaceFace with 11x36 , X9 Type2 . I didnt measure my chain, i put it on the biggest cog, ran it thru the derailer making sure there is just about an " S " figure as the chain runs around the pulleys, and then cut it. Havent dropped a chain yet , did Attakwas and this past weekends RideTheRock in Cederberg which was plenty rocky..In fact Atta i did with the same setup on a Hardtail , and this past weekend it was the same setup on a Spez Epic (just moved everything over)
shade Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 looks similar to this https://cdn.bikehub.co.za/uploads/monthly_02_2014/post-35732-0-60936300-1392017405.jpg
NicoBoshoff Posted February 10, 2014 Author Posted February 10, 2014 ok, I am running a 30T RaceFace with 11x36 , X9 Type2 . I didnt measure my chain, i put it on the biggest cog, ran it thru the derailer making sure there is just about an " S " figure as the chain runs around the pulleys, and then cut it. Havent dropped a chain yet , did Attakwas and this past weekends RideTheRock in Cederberg which was plenty rocky..In fact Atta i did with the same setup on a Hardtail , and this past weekend it was the same setup on a Spez Epic (just moved everything over) Yeah well if this is anything to go by my chain is way too long. My cage is basically at a right angle (and even slightly angled away from the crank) with the mech when in biggest cog.
NicoBoshoff Posted February 10, 2014 Author Posted February 10, 2014 Ok well i checked the RD and it seems fine. It's quite tight and not making any noises and movement is smooth. When i manage to get an 8mm Allen key I'll open the clutch in any event to give it some attention. I then deflated the shiock and compressed in big cog, routed through the rd. there was minimal overlap, but the rd could still move a bit. So i cut another link, figuring that chances of me bottoming out whilst in biggest cog are zero as I always descend in the small half of my casette. I'll go an see if i can hit some bumpy trail again and see what happens. Hopefully it's fixed now. Btw, how tight should a chain be when not under force? Is some flex fine when Pushing down on the chain?
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted February 10, 2014 Posted February 10, 2014 A little bit of flex is fine, yeah. Not much, but the clutch should be keeping it toight.
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