SilverRider Posted February 28, 2014 Posted February 28, 2014 At the back of the Parktool Big Blue Book of Bicycle repair and maintenance there use to be a table listing torque settings for the different parts. Have to add that my book is 8 or 9 years old though. Caerus 1
fanievb Posted February 28, 2014 Posted February 28, 2014 http://www.parktool.com/uploads/files/blog/torque.pdf
V12man Posted February 28, 2014 Posted February 28, 2014 I'm sure that must cost a small fortune though. In saying that, in the box the Birzman wrench came in it says it was tested & calibrated. Let's hope it wasn't tested on a Monday or Friday  Just test it against a known good one - but like I say - good tool shops have torque testers that you can do a quick check on - usually free... Norbar was not wildly expensive - more than a birzman, but not insanely so - compared to the cost of stripping a stud... cheap... compared to blowing up a race motor.... practically free... Besides - it was less than the snap on POS.... Caerus 1
NotSoBigBen Posted February 28, 2014 Posted February 28, 2014 Pretty nifty little tool this  the nerd 1
SwissVan Posted February 28, 2014 Posted February 28, 2014 Pffft.....my right wrist was calibrated to 40 in lbs when I did my apprenticeship and has not let me down yet. BarHugger and Caerus 2
Caerus Posted February 28, 2014 Author Posted February 28, 2014 Pretty nifty little tool this  I only saw something similar after buying the whole wrench, great for on the trail repairs May look at getting one anyway.
Pusher Posted February 28, 2014 Posted February 28, 2014 When in doubt use 4 or 5nm... Most manufacturers post the torque specs in their maintenance/specification documents - google will help you find them. PS - please check your torque wrench is ACCURATE before using it - better tool shops will have a tester in house - in Jhb, The Toolshop has one.Also remember to loosen the bolt by half a turn or so and then tighten it.
Pusher Posted February 28, 2014 Posted February 28, 2014 Pretty nifty little tool this  The new ones come with three or four different allen key/torque key head sizes.
Josh0 Posted February 28, 2014 Posted February 28, 2014 Pretty nifty little tool this   Hi NSBB What tool is that? Where did you get it from?
Dirtbreath Posted February 28, 2014 Posted February 28, 2014 Also remember to loosen the bolt by half a turn or so and then tighten it. Why is that?
Pusher Posted February 28, 2014 Posted February 28, 2014 (edited) Why is that? Smaller increments can often lead to incorrect readings. For example, it’s almost always a bad idea to take a bolt that has already been tightened to 65 ft-lbs and take it to 70. This is true, and if you find yourself in this situation, you should loosen the bolt and then retighten it to 70 ft-lbs. A bolt that has already been tightened will usually have a breaking point (the amount of pressure that’s required to get it moving again) that’s higher than the amount that it has originally been torqued. So, for a bolt that has already been tightened to 65 ft-lbs, the force required to get it moving again could be 5 ft-lbs or more on top of the original 65. Read more: http://www.circletra...l#ixzz2uerRXS8q Edited February 28, 2014 by Pusher
Dirtbreath Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Smaller increments can often lead to incorrect readings. For example, it’s almost always a bad idea to take a bolt that has already been tightened to 65 ft-lbs and take it to 70. This is true, and if you find yourself in this situation, you should loosen the bolt and then retighten it to 70 ft-lbs. A bolt that has already been tightened will usually have a breaking point (the amount of pressure that’s required to get it moving again) that’s higher than the amount that it has originally been torqued. So, for a bolt that has already been tightened to 65 ft-lbs, the force required to get it moving again could be 5 ft-lbs or more on top of the original 65. Read more: http://www.circletra...l#ixzz2uerRXS8q Good article but I'm not sure why you'd loosen the bolt a half turn and retighten it. If it's torqued correctly, it should be fine. Unless you want to retighten then yes.
Pusher Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Good article but I'm not sure why you'd loosen the bolt a half turn and retighten it. If it's torqued correctly, it should be fine. Unless you want to retighten then yes.I check all my pivot bolts on a monthly basis-so yes re-tightening them. Lost one or two on the trail before and can be expensive and sometimes difficult to replace.
Dirtbreath Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 I check all my pivot bolts on a monthly basis-so yes re-tightening them. Lost one or two on the trail before and can be expensive and sometimes difficult to replace. I use Loc-tite. The blue one that doesnt set and can be retightened.
DubbelBuys Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 ALWAYS leave your torque wrench in a relaxed state after using it ( 'under' the lowest mark) V12man and Cellar 2
V12man Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Good article but I'm not sure why you'd loosen the bolt a half turn and retighten it. If it's torqued correctly, it should be fine. Unless you want to retighten then yes. There is an element of sticktion involved in torqueing things - BUT - the most important think to know on a torque spec is if it is given as oiled or dry.... torqueing something up to a dry spec if it is oiled/lubricated is a sure fire way to break something.... and if you do it in reverse, it will probably loosen itself quite quickly.... I have a table somewhere if someone is interested, I could find it, scan and post it up.
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