Cyclo Posted July 9, 2014 Share Hey guys, I bought not long ago an off-road bike (Titan) and from day one I got my noisy disk brakes ( Tektro ) I sent it 3 times to the shop and every time they were saying that "nothing wrong with the bike...now is fixed" and after the first km. of riding starts again. It is not the cheapest bike though. Ten grand I think is a good amount of money for which you have to get a proper machine. Now, I can't spend more time and petrol to deal with "mechanics", so I am trying to get an advise from someone from the forum before I go and spend money on new brake pads without knowing what actually would've worked best. I will appreciate your help.Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest notmyname Posted July 9, 2014 Share Oil the pads..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest notmyname Posted July 9, 2014 Share No, hold on. *** idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko35s Posted July 9, 2014 Share Honestly some brakes are just noisy, as long as they stop you okay just leave it for now. They may quieten down a little when they bed in more. ChUkKy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclo Posted July 9, 2014 Share No, hold on. *** idea. Ah no man, I just oiled them...and they got so quite...and smooth... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChUkKy Posted July 9, 2014 Share Try loosening the caliper, once loose, hold the lever in and tighten the caliper bolts again... maybe its not aligned properly. I have also found that a hub that has a little bit of lateral play on it can be a cause of a howling brake at the rear, check if there is not any lateral play on the wheel. You said they are tektro so that rules out Avid, those are hond naai and not an upgrade. fanievb and worriesnot 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclo Posted July 9, 2014 Share Thanks man, they actually did get quieter lately but still irritating enough. I probably need to try different pads after they finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclo Posted July 9, 2014 Share Try loosening the caliper, once loose, hold the lever in and tighten the caliper bolts again... maybe its not aligned properly. I have also found that a hub that has a little bit of lateral play on it can be a cause of a howling brake at the rear, check if there is not any lateral play on the wheel. You said they are tektro so that rules out Avid, those are hond naai and not an upgrade. I will try this. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Travis. Posted July 9, 2014 Share Sand paper the discs and the pads. Soufflé and fanievb 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fanievb Posted July 9, 2014 Share Sand paper the discs and the pads. What he saidgoogle glazed disc brakes and watch a few youtube vids Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKaiser Posted July 9, 2014 Share Before you sand the disks, check if there is any grease/oil on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted July 9, 2014 Share Do a forum search. This has been covered several million times. If you still don't find anything, report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
River Rat Posted July 9, 2014 Share Take off the wheel, take out the pads. Get a can of Q20 with a long thin nozzle. Spray oil into the opening around the brake pistons. That will allow the pistons to retract and release contact with the brake pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YUMEYA Posted July 9, 2014 Share try resin pads if you haven't already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheV Posted July 9, 2014 Share Couple of things can cause noisy brakes, common issue with new bikes, especially the entry level brake sets and rotors.  Brakes have to be run in. But before you do that you have to get the basics right first. Firstly take out the pads and ensure pistons are pushed in evenly and flush on both sides. If they are not flush/equally set you won't get them to move in concert. Be careful not to pull the brake lever too much without the pads/rotor installed otherwise the pistons will pop out. But sometimes it helps oiling the pistons by braking them out and dabbing some brake fluid around them, pushing them back in/out till the move together. Install pads, and try to align caliper as perfectly centered as possible, taking into account the alignment is aimed at having both pads making contact at the same time on the rotor when braking. After you can spin the wheel freely without pad contact, and also get both pads to engage at the same time, as as close balance as you can get, then you have to make a couple of high speed straight line tar road brakes by going fast, braking slowly and increasing breaking force until total stop. Do a couple of runs breaking back only, then front only, then both front/back, easing into braking power to seat pads and rotors. After than you can check alignments again, maybe have to another couple of braking sessions.  Not many shop mechanics will spend this amount if time getting brakes run in and set up for you. It's a personal investment.  Be very careful when you clean your bike to never contaminate the pads or rotors, use isopropyl alcohol to clean rotors and pads. Soufflé 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheV Posted July 9, 2014 Share Post from phone, sorry for grammar, spelling, ranting, too difficult to edit, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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