1x10 conversion advice

[JTK]

32 up front on a 29wheel seems fine to me. On the flat you will almost never spin out. I have a 1x9 setup with a Wolftooth narrow wide up front, no guides and XTR derailer at the back. Early days but no drops and nice spread. Need to get a 11x36 casette though when this one goes. 11x32 is a bit rough at times . If I were to race with this setup I would probably wanted a 34 up front but to be honest I have not yet found I needed more than what the 11 at the back and 32 up front gave me on the flat. tar roads and gravel roads may need some more on the slight downhill areas but I dont ride there All in all a very good balance for me.

[Smurfy]

For most races a 34T is perfect. If it is a flatter race I will go to something like a 36T, or really flat 38T.

Would you do the transkaroo 240km mtb on a 1x11/10 or 2x10? In two minds regarding the change. I converted to 2x10 from a 3x10.

[HBay Cyclist]

Would you do the transkaroo 240km mtb on a 1x11/10 or 2x10? In two minds regarding the change. I converted to 2x10 from a 3x10.

That is a very difficult question, but I will probably never go back to anything other than 1x10. It just is better

In my opinion you can never go wrong with a 34T upfront and I have a 11T-36T at the back.

 

When it really gets steep I push but most other people then also have to push, even guys with a 3x10.

 

Edit: A 1x11 setup for me personally is just to expensive for what you get! That one extra gear in my opinion isn`t worth the R3K or more extra.

[NotSoBigBen]

Would you do the transkaroo 240km mtb on a 1x11/10 or 2x10? In two minds regarding the change. I converted to 2x10 from a 3x10.

 

Don't know the transkaroo but IMHO this is exactly where 1*X drivetrains have their limits for the 'average' Joe .... we don't want to have to change our chainring based on the race we doing (and maybe even get it wrong) so perhaps and again this just my personal opinion it is better to stick with a by 2*X at least?

 

And no comparisons with Susi, Jara and co don't help .....

[Smurfy]

That is a very difficult question, but I will probably never go back to anything other than 1x10. It just is better

In my opinion you can never go wrong with a 34T upfront and I have a 11T-36T at the back.

 

When it really gets steep I push but most other people then also have to push, even guys with a 3x10.

Tx, was wondering about the push. Like you say the others also push.

[milky4130]

Would you do the transkaroo 240km mtb on a 1x11/10 or 2x10? In two minds regarding the change. I converted to 2x10 from a 3x10.

yes although I've never done TB before so don't know how it compares to the 100miler 160km I've done at race pace, btw I run 36t up front & now 42t rear (1x10)

[Smurfy]

36 for training.

Depends on races. Epic 32. Other one day races 34. Attakwas 32. I look at the climbing and decide. Takes about 4.274 Minutes to change the ring.

And do you need to shorten the chain or not.

[Cejay]

We ride a 36 upfront with a 11-36 at the back did change our riding style a bit standing more when going uphill

[Fisan]

So I decided to go the 1x10 route this week...

 

I followed the steps from MBR magazine. Went from a Shimano M552 (3x) setup to a Race Face NW 32T . I already had an SLX 11-36 cassette so did not need to change that. Did not even bother to upgrade rear derailleur to clutch version - for now at least...  Only had to shorten the chain. Simple right?

 

Well there was the issue with the chainline... The chainline was too much towards the higher gears (even though I used the recommended "old" middle ring position). By adding filled spacers between the chainring and crank-tabs (only possible with the old / triple ring bolts), I managed to get a chainline on gear 6 (from the smallest gear) - as recommended by Absolute black. With this position, there is +- 2mm gap left between the 32T Chainring and chainstay - a frame limitation I never even thought of... It works, but I doubt that anything above 34t will fit.

 

I've only had this setup for two days know. I have done some rocky and rooty technical to test the chain retention and so far no problems (expect the familiar chain slapping...) Definitely worth it, but at the same time, not for everyone.

[nickc]

1X10. Probably a 34. That would be my choice.

I am running a 34 up front with a 42t rear, pretty much takes care of everything - closest to the ideal setup one can get I reckon.

[Odinson]

If you're worried about steep climbs with a 1X10, consider getting a range extender sprocket (like a 40T or 42T). It will act as a granny ring and save the embarrassment of dismounting for a climb. 

[Brian Fantana]

In my experience climbing is not that hard with a 1x10 setup because you don't ride full gas on the flats.  Many riders with large chainrings on a 3x10 or 2x10 burn most of their matches trying to ride fast on the flats, and when they reach the mountains, they NEED the easy climbing gear just to survive the climb.

 

Best is to analyse your data and decide what is best for you, your riding style and the routes you ride.

 

Let's look at a very simplified example. If a race has 20km total climbs,20km descents and 20km flats, and you assume the following:

 

Assumptions

 

2 x 10

 

Avg Descents: 40km/h  Time: 30min

Avg Flats: 30km/h  Time: 45min

Avg climb: 14km/h  Time: 85min

 

Total time: 2:40

 

1 x 10

 

Avg Descents: 35km/h  Time: 34min

Avg Flats: 25km/h  Time: 48min

Avg Climb: 16km/h: 75min

 

Total time: 2:37

 

From the above, if you ride 1x10 and can ride the flats slightly slower and the climbs slightly faster, you could be better off or equal at least.

 

In my opinion good race times are not made on the flats pedaling the fastest ratio in the world, a good time is made by climbing at a good and consistent pace.

 

I realised this after I rode the Karoo to Coast on both a single speed and a geared bike (both HT 29er) two years in a row, with similar conditioning and training.  After riding 04:00:45 on the single speed I thought that I will easily go under 4 hours with the geared bike which is 2kg lighter as well.  Rode myself inside out and managed 04:00:05.  Not very scientific I know, but the first thing I saw after I compared the Polar data for the two rides, was that my avg speed while climbing was almost 2km/h faster that on the single speed than what it was on the geared bike.  And even the faster ratios on the flats could not make up for that deficit.

 

There are events where a big ring will be beneficial but those events are of no importance to me.

[Orbit]

So here's my question...

 

I currently own a 26" bike that's got a 3x9 setup that is pretty near the end of its life. I'm also building up a 29" that needs to get a drivetrain. I plan on going 1x10, 11-36 on this bike as this seems to be optimal gearing on a budget.

So I wanted to convert the 3x9 to 1x9, 11-34 as it will save me a bit on new front rings and 9 speed cassettes and chains are crazy cheap these days. I would do this by getting both a 32 and a 34 narrow wide ring and then swap these between bikes depending on the ride route.

 

This whole week I've been riding cascades on the 11-34 in the middle ring only and I've managed fine. So I'm happy going 1x9 on the 26".

 

So I wanted to know if the 2 rings would work if they ran on two different chains intermittently (9 and 10 speed). Would they wear differently and then start causing issues with chain slip etc?

Also would changing from 34 to 32 need a different chain length?

Being able to only buy 2 rings and not 4 would really be a winner and convince me to convert.

 

Anything else I need to take into consideration?

[amasendeinja]

Anyone got any experience running a clutch derailleur but without a NW chainring? Mine is not going to arrive in time for this weekend, so want to run 1x10 with the existing non-NW chainring.

 

Don't really feel like losing my teeth on my stem on a tough climb, if the chain comes off! I would assume though that if that chain would jump off it would be on sketchy descents rather?

 

Any experiences please.