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Posted (edited)

More importantly, you spent R35k on a drivetrain, but still run Alu stem and bar???  Sies man!

 

^_^

 

haha, yup, further upgrades may be on the horizon. I was actually going to get the Pro Di2 handlebar and stem, which routes the Di2 wires internally through the bar and stem. But apparently there is some problem with the stem and it keeps slipping. A problem with some new technology on that piece of equipment to allow for the battery to be housed down the stemfork if necessary.

 

Also, with the Pro handlebar and stem, you forego the neat chainbreaker and chainlink in the stem system that Specialised has developed. I am not sure that I am prepared to let go of that little piece of genius.

 

But as I said, weight is less of an issue for me. I want clean, crisp, reliable and relatively maintenance-free shifting - I can actually feel that value-add. 

Edited by GrantRH
Posted

I am running the Di2 on a 1x 11 and must say, totally stoked so-far.  Definitely one of the best investments I have made into my cycling equipment and my MTBike machine.

 

Interesting that you went 1x11. What was your reason not to go 2x11, given synchroshifting?

Posted

What I do not understand; is when I should up to a race with battery powered motor connected to my drive chain, suddenly I'm a "cheat" and was asked to leave???

Posted

What I do not understand; is when I should up to a race with battery powered motor connected to my drive chain, suddenly I'm a "cheat" and was asked to leave???

One word....downtube...put it in there

Posted

I would have thought for MTB a complete wireless system should have been developed from the word go, as that's the biggest weakness off road, one little branch snags your wire and its cut in half and you single speed home.

 

I guess that will be 2.0, just sad they did not do it from the start.

I dont like the idea of wireless.....separate small batteries for each component with no option for in-ride charging Rather standardise on an in-frame battery mount with internally routed cables that terminate at standard weatherproof sockets at the FD, RD and headtube areas.

 

The FD location can be used to connect rear shock too, the head tube socket could also manage a connection to front shocks and the RD position also connects the hub generator.....

Posted

Those electric wires look pretty robust. More likely that they will be pulled out the socket if snagged on something. In which event, dismount, plug back in, remount, ride.

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