JXV Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 I am now the proud owner of a Park Tools PCS 10 bike stand that I have been coveting for some time. Normally, bikes are clamped in these stands by the seat post and sometimes the the seat tube or top tube. Are there any reasons why I should not clamp my bike via my Reverb Stealth dropper? Any precautions? My bike frame is carbon...again...any specific precautions? In the LBS workshops I have often seen extra padding on the clamps - Is that just because they get worn out or do I need to add some extra? Tks.
Paul Ruinaard Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 Carbon doesn't do well with any sort of compression so its a no no to clamp carbon tubes - they are directionally rigid. Hence the clamping of the seat posts. Not sure about your dropper post though - gentle clamping?
Skylark Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 Nope dont clamp on a dropper post, perhaps on the lower half of the dropper if there is space but even then not great. You must be able to clamp a carbon frame if you are careful, perhaps someone that has done it before can give some advice.
David Marshall Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 For the Reverb - not recommended to hang by the saddle but if you have enough of the lower tube above the seatpost clamp you can clamp it there. Carbon round tubes are not a problem if you are careful or on some bikes you can clamp on the rear shock.
TALUS Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 I wrote off a Reverb on this same stand. If you clamp too close to the seat the rigid "? grommet" can break. I never really solved the problem.Great stand. Great dropper. Not a great couple.
GlockG4 Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 Carbon doesn't do well with any sort of compression so its a no no to clamp carbon tubes - they are directionally rigid. Hence the clamping of the seat posts. Not sure about your dropper post though - gentle clamping?You are making me worry. Thuli bikerack clamps?
Paul Ruinaard Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 Ja, just don't clamp too tightly. The clip on racks are even more dangerous. I use a Thule as well. Think of carbon like fiberglass. Eventually if you crush it enough it softens under clamping pressure.
ridin dirty Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 parktool do a dummy seatpost which we use in the shop. get one,Park Tool Internal Seat Tube Clamp - ISC-4 | Competitive ...
cadenceblur Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 In same boat, just acquired this stand as well. Surely one can pull a bit of the post out of the frame?
Butterbean Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 Why not just buy a used cheapie seatpost on the hub and remove the dropper before working on the bike? Bit of a schlep, but at least you can be sure.
TALUS Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 Why not just buy a used cheapie seatpost on the hub and remove the dropper before working on the bike?Bit of a schlep, but at least you can be sure.I REALLY cable tight. Trough the pivots etc. Big pain to remove.
JXV Posted June 26, 2015 Author Posted June 26, 2015 Ja fitting a cheapie seatpost for when I work on the bike is a pain....the Stealth Reverb is internally routed so I would have to disconnect and rebleed the hydraulics each time.Its a TB LTc so the seat tube and top tubes dont have any straight sections near the bike's centre of gravity either....will make a plan somehow...go ask the lbs how they do it. Maybe I don't wanna know ..????
Trackie Posted June 27, 2015 Posted June 27, 2015 I have exactly the same problem - TB with a stealth Reverb, any solutions out there??
JXV Posted June 27, 2015 Author Posted June 27, 2015 Well its not a total disaster. I have one other bike that fits and often work on friend's bikes with more conventional frames. The TB LTc has this complex frame shape and also quite front heavy. Then the top tube kinks down right at the balance point. I can get it to fit without undue pressure. Will post a pic later.
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