rickus grobled Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 I recently had my headset serviced and had all the bearings replaced, but when I hold my front brake and push the bars forward it moves forward and backward separate from the frame??
Sepia Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 Not sure what you mean but it sounds like the headset needs tightening? New bearings need to be seated properly.
velomonatiCT Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 your headset hasn't been tightened correctly (or your bearings haven't been assembled correctly ) take it back to who did it and get them to sort it out don't ride the bike like that !
mtbride Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 Common mistake people make is to tighten the small stem bolts before the big one on top ... Loosen all, tighten the top bolt 1st (not too tight, just tight enough to stop play), then tighten the small stem bolts. Not sure if this is your issue, but it's common for people to get this wrong.
Guest notmyname Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 Common mistake people make is to tighten the small stem bolts before the big one on top ... Loosen all, tighten the top nut 1st (not too tight, just tight enough to stop play), then tighten the small stem bolts. Not sure if this is your issue, but it's a common for people to get this wrong.This was my exact thought. Remember to torque the bolts to the factory recommended setting.
JXV Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 This was my exact thought. Remember to torque the bolts to the factory recommended setting.The top bolt really does not need to be tightened much at all. Almost no torque...just enough to take up the freeplay that is bugging you...then tighten the stem clamp bolts ...... assuming it is a conventional type bike. It is common for the new bearings to settle a little into their cups once the rider's weight comes onto them. After setting it do a short test ride of a few 100 metres with occasional braking then check and re-adjust if required. The shop should have done this for you.
Skylark Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 The top bolt really does not need to be tightened much at all. Almost no torque...just enough to take up the freeplay that is bugging you...then tighten the stem clamp bolts ...... assuming it is a conventional type bike. It is common for the new bearings to settle a little into their cups once the rider's weight comes onto them. After setting it do a short test ride of a few 100 metres with occasional braking then check and re-adjust if required. The shop should have done this for you.Can you tighten up the top bolt once the free play is set and the stems main side bolts are torqued? That's what I do, just as a protection in case the main stem bolts loosen/lose the plot etc, seems to work fine can't see any reason against it?
David Marshall Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 Can also be movement on the brake caliper/disc or even worn bushings in the fork.
JXV Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 Can you tighten up the top bolt once the free play is set and the stems main side bolts are torqued? That's what I do, just as a protection in case the main stem bolts loosen/lose the plot etc, seems to work fine can't see any reason against it?Manufacturers typically give a torque spec for this and it is very low (often printed on the headset cap). Tightening up the top bolt after the clamp bolts....with vibration and use will eventually result in excess preload being applied to the headset bearings and has more potential to do harm than good IMO. Best to stick with specified torque figures and if you don't have a torque wrench or a 'feel' for the correct torque then take it to your lbs. When I got a torque wrench small enough for bike parts I realised that I had been overtightening things for years in spite of thinking I had a good 'feel' for mechanical stuff after decades of doing my own car repairs. With the price of bikes and parts these days rivalling car repair costs - rather get it right 1st time
dirtypot Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 Can you tighten up the top bolt once the free play is set and the stems main side bolts are torqued? That's what I do, just as a protection in case the main stem bolts loosen/lose the plot etc, seems to work fine can't see any reason against it? Doing that serves no function. It won't tighten the stem / fork any more, and you'll just be putting unnecessary stress on the star nut inside the steerer. Even if that bolt came out completely you'd most likely still be fine as the whole assembly is held tight by the stem. That bolt is just for tuning before you tighten the stem on.
Skylark Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 You guys use pipes on your spanners?!! [emoji12] I don't tighten it that tight or even close to that tight. But considering if the main stem to steerer bolts go south or come loose that top cap and bolt is all that's there as a backup. Those star nuts do not pull out easily, I've taken one out before, won't try that again.
droo Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 You guys use pipes on your spanners?!! [emoji12] I don't tighten it that tight or even close to that tight. But considering if the main stem to steerer bolts go south or come loose that top cap and bolt is all that's there as a backup. Those star nuts do not pull out easily, I've taken one out before, won't try that again. If your stem comes loose that topcap will help exactly sod all. It's there to preload bearings. The end. Tighten it as much as you like, but know that I (and others) will be judging you.
DR ◣◢ Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 You guys use pipes on your spanners?!! [emoji12] I don't tighten it that tight or even close to that tight. But considering if the main stem to steerer bolts go south or come loose that top cap and bolt is all that's there as a backup. Those star nuts do not pull out easily, I've taken one out before, won't try that again.No matter how tight you make that top cap it's going to help at if the stem bolts come loose. The bars will turn and the wheel won't. It will be epic. Also, the chance of both bolts failing is 0.
Skylark Posted July 7, 2015 Posted July 7, 2015 Ok I see the point, if the stem bolts loosen or the stem cracks at the steerer then the over tightened top cap will just add more preload and will provide little if any backup of any kind. All ways happy to learn, thanks chaps.
Kaalvoet Thysie Posted August 26, 2015 Posted August 26, 2015 I need some help on this topic as well There was a lot of play in my headset, so I tightened the bolt in the top cap. But there is a scratching sound when I turn when I tighten it enough that the play goes away. When I loosen it till the sound goes away there is play in the headset again... Am I just a noob and doing it wrong or did I break something by being a noob and doing it wrong?
Robhobbers Posted August 26, 2015 Posted August 26, 2015 I recently had my headset serviced and had all the bearings replaced, but when I hold my front brake and push the bars forward it moves forward and backward separate from the frame??Could be that your bushings in the lowers of your fork are worn , allowing a little play around the stanchions. Happened to me , thought it was my headset bearings turned out to be warn stanchions.
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