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1x11 or not


JeremyCPT

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Posted

Yebo, no gaps with my XT 1x11 11-42 and Oval 32 up front.

Honestly switching to 1x was awesome and I'll never go back...

e-Thirteen is releasing a 9-44 cassette soon I believe as well, but then you may notice some gaps.

On my old 1x10 I did notice some gaps, but only if I concentrated :P Otherwise no mission there either.

fixed. 9-44 or 9-42.

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Posted

If you're on a 27.5 Anthem then a 34T round or oval ring would be ideal

If you're on a 29er Antem then a 32T round or oval chain ring would be ideal.

 

these combos' would provide identical gearing so for each rev of the crank you will travel the same distance forward

Posted

I've been on a Demo bike for almost 2 weeks now running a 32 - 42/10 combo and loving it. 

 

Range gaps you get use to in a day or so.  I've found the loss at the top end and bottom end was not that big as I was expecting it to be and was able to do all the hills even one killer hill over here on the setup.  The legs did feel it a bit but nothing a HTFU attitude can't fix.  My avg speed on one of the more flat routes here was just as fast as normal as well.

 

I do find that 10t does make a big difference on ones top end so keep that in mind.  Getting a 34 ring fitted this week to see how that goes but belief beside that one killer hill all will be manageable and with some more training even the killer hill should be doable

 

Also dropping the front derailleur drops another mechanical issue you can pick up like I did at W2W getting stuck in the granny up front (24t) until I could get to the water point and fix the damn thing.  Trying to stick to my partner at 24/11 was not fun as it was on a fast section to boot. :cursing:

 

EDIT

Might just mention my transition was from a 3x10 to 1x11 ;)

Posted

I think the biggest question is for each individual to determine if it is indeed an "upgrade" based on his/her riding ability/style/terrain etc...The sad truth is that this whole thing of 1x...is seen as an "upgrade" when in fact it could be detrimental to your ride pleasure. tbh, if I had more than 1 mtb i would toy around with this thing called an "upgrade" We need to identify what we personally need when "upgrading" our steeds.

 

IMHO i think OP's posting questions like "1x11 or not" is an indication that they them self dont know what they need to improve their riding quality/capabilities. So OP, not to flame you  :blush: only you can answer your question. 

Posted

sometime - the weight saving is in the region of 350-500g depending on what shfters and FD you're removing, and the thickness of your cable housing etc. Also - the loss of one of the rings. 

 

Simplicity because you've now just got one shifter instead of 2. Cleanliness on the bars. 

 

Yes, a 2x10 has more range, but so does a 3x10. That has the most range of all. Should we all go back to 3x for range's sake, or all run what we want to run?

 

The guy is looking for answers on which way to go, not derision based on your perceptions of what is acceptable and / or ideal for you. As for the "gaps" - not yet experienced that, tbh. 

 

There are much better places to lose 300 - 400g on a bike than the front mech.

 

If you really want clean bars run rigid single speed - two brake levers that's it, else whether you have one extra cable in addition to the one for the rear mech, the two for the suspension lockouts, plus two brake hoses is really neither here nor there.

 

3 x 10 range is pointless and you know it. Fact is pros and amateurs do debate which 1 x 11 chain ring to run depending on the route. You hear these conversations at races and you can read the countless threads about it here on the Hub.

 

Gaps - there is 6 tooth difference at the low end of 1 x 11 gearing.That's big and noticeable despite any 'spin' to the contrary.

 

Lastly the subject line of the thread was 1 x 11 or not. I'm answering the question from my perspective.

Posted

My previous bikes include an Anthem 29er where 3x10 or 2X10.

I recently bought a Pyga that came with 1X10.

 

The simplicity is cool, but it introduces a whole new world of issues that one never even though of with 2X10. All the debate about which front ring I should be using. Then clusters that cost considerably more and one needs to get the additional large ring on the back to get up some of Cape Town / Stellenbosch'es steepest climbs. Then on the down hill, your mates with 2X11 drop you (on jeep track not single track).

 

It is all cool, but I really believe that 2X10 is just fine and easier.

Posted

There are much better places to lose 300 - 400g on a bike than the front mech.

 

If you really want clean bars run rigid single speed - two brake levers that's it, else whether you have one extra cable in addition to the one for the rear mech, the two for the suspension lockouts, plus two brake hoses is really neither here nor there.

 

3 x 10 range is pointless and you know it. Fact is pros and amateurs do debate which 1 x 11 chain ring to run depending on the route. You hear these conversations at races and you can read the countless threads about it here on the Hub.

 

Gaps - there is 6 tooth difference at the low end of 1 x 11 gearing.That's big and noticeable despite any 'spin' to the contrary.

 

Lastly the subject line of the thread was 1 x 11 or not. I'm answering the question from my perspective.

 

 

I cudn't agree more with your last line in your post!

Posted

There are much better places to lose 300 - 400g on a bike than the front mech.

 

If you really want clean bars run rigid single speed - two brake levers that's it, else whether you have one extra cable in addition to the one for the rear mech, the two for the suspension lockouts, plus two brake hoses is really neither here nor there.

 

Lastly the subject line of the thread was 1 x 11 or not. I'm answering the question from my perspective.

Firstly - the tone at which the comment was delivered could have been far better. 

 

Secondly - not for the same cost, IMO. To save 400g (approx) you'd have to trump huge amounts of cash on any other area in order you to get there. Yes, the addition of the XD driver does take that up to a not inconsiderable level, but it's still cheaper than any other option to save weight.

 

As for the cabling - I don't have lockout cables on my bike, nor do a lot of people. All I have is front/rear brake, dropper and shifter. 4 cables / hoses, which is still a lot cleaner than 5. Even if you do have the lockout remotes, removing one cable from the bars allows you to position the rest of the stuff in a much more efficient way. 

 

3x has more range than 2x. Simple fact. 24/34/42 and 11-36. More top end than a 24/36. Indisputable. Yes, 2x has more range than 1x, but for someone who potentially doesn't need it... 

 

However - last portion of your post - correct. Though as I've said above, the tone could use a bit of work. 

Posted

. The move to a 1x system will save you approximately 450g, so...

 

Is this only the 2x parts taken off, or do you weight the new 1x parts as well and subtract it for taken off?

 

I found on my 1 x 10 conversion, I saved weight by taking off the left shifter ; gear cable ; front derailleur ; and two 2 x 10 XT chain rings front and 15 tooth rear sprocket.

 

But.

 

The 40 tooth (Rapide) rear sprocket was quit on the heavy side  

and add the 16 tooth  rear ; the Wide narrow chain ring up front that is also not that light :blush:

 

My net saving was more in the region of 200 odd grams if my memory serves me correct?

Posted

people question their chain ring selection at stage races because they haven't done the hard work to establish whether they have enough gears or not.

if you do your homework, you'll find that a 32 - 10/42 delivers enough gearing to get up a 25% climb.

 

Problem arises when people under gear themselves.

After speaking to many people who rode Attakwas, I can't see that fears around 1x11 are well founded

Posted

Is this only the 2x parts taken off, or do you weight the new 1x parts as well and subtract it for taken off?

 

I found on my 1 x 10 conversion, I saved weight by taking off the left shifter ; gear cable ; front derailleur ; and two 2 x 10 XT chain rings front and 15 tooth rear sprocket.

 

But.

 

The 40 tooth (Rapide) rear sprocket was quit on the heavy side  

and add the 16 tooth  rear ; the Wide narrow chain ring up front that is also not that light :blush:

 

My net saving was more in the region of 200 odd grams if my memory serves me correct?

 

I never weigh anything, the reason I did/do these things is purely and only 'because I can'  :ph34r:

Posted

Is this only the 2x parts taken off, or do you weight the new 1x parts as well and subtract it for taken off?

 

I found on my 1 x 10 conversion, I saved weight by taking off the left shifter ; gear cable ; front derailleur ; and two 2 x 10 XT chain rings front and 15 tooth rear sprocket.

 

But.

 

The 40 tooth (Rapide) rear sprocket was quit on the heavy side  

and add the 16 tooth  rear ; the Wide narrow chain ring up front that is also not that light :blush:

 

My net saving was more in the region of 200 odd grams if my memory serves me correct?

Yeah, the "expander" rings are heavy bastids. Far heavier than the new 11sp cassettes are, at least.

 

It's essentially the removal of shifter, cable housing, FD & one ring. New rings are often lighter than the stock pressed steel or alu jobbies. I weighed them all on my kitchen scale, and lost 420g or so (can't remember the exact figure) including the new ring. 

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