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mon-goose

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so I'm still looking for an inexpensive secondhand rifle silencer 1x14 thread for a 270 caliber. Anyone have something lying around please let me know.

 

Thanks

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so I had some fun last night doing my first loads.

 

Brass: 270 PMP cases

Powder Somchem S361

Primers CCI 250 magnum rifle primers

 

Did a load of 20 nosler 140 grain rounds. Did 4 different powder loads ranging from 56 grains to 59. 5 bullets at each load totaling 20 rounds

 

Did a load of 30 peregrine 120 grain rounds. Did 5 different powder loads ranging from 56 grain to 61 grains, also 5 of each totaling 30 rounds

 

In total only 30 rounds

 

Have a few cases left over and have a 100 sierra 90 grain bullets that I'll load soon. Was quite fun but need a better scale and powder dispenser

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Hi mongoose

 

You'll be doing this next (I know you know this stuff, but just for fun I'll post it anyway):

 

Testing

Correct testing procedure is even more essential with rifle ammunition, otherwise your groupings won’t tell you much.

Firstly, the rifle must be in good order, clean, all screws tight and the barrel bedded or floated correctly.  The telescope must be fitted properly with all screws tight and the trigger must not be too heavy or inconsistent. It only takes a few minutes to check these things, but it can save you endless hours of frustration. Do it BEFORE you start testing! A quality telescope is essential. A telescope of higher magnification makes for better groups than a lower magnification, simply because it allows you to see better and aim at a smaller point. If you use a variable power telescope, dial up to the higher magnification for testing and test all groups at the same power. Testing should be done over a sturdy bench with a good rest. Two or three bank-bags full of sand under the front end, and one under the back end of the stock, work well, but a real bench-rest is best. The rest must never touch the barrel and must not be made of a hard substance. Do not try to shoot over what looks like a handy piece of wood or rock, as your results will tell you almost nothing! Diamond-shaped targets work best for telescoped rifles because it is easier to align the crosshair of the telescope consistently on a diamond-shaped bull’s-eye than on a round or square one.

I avoid very cold or windy days on the shooting range. You and your bullets don’t want to be blown around by a gale-force wind and you don’t want to shiver from the cold and have a numb trigger finger. Hot days with a mirage running on the range also make for poor accuracy. As always, good ear protection is important. I also wear a padded shooting jacket, especially when shooting something with a bit of kick. Flinching because of the noise or recoil will ruin everything that you are trying to achieve. All groups are shot at the same 100 meter distance. Before starting to fire your first group, fire at least one fouling shot to get rid of any slight oil residue left in the barrel (which, of course, you have already cleaned by running a dry patch through it). The first shot from a cold barrel, is notorious for going a bit wild, so there is good reason for excluding it from your test groups. It is also important to let the rifle cool down for a few minutes between shots and even more between groups. A hot barrel can sometimes change the point of impact enough to produce wandering groups. A lot of hunters believe that a thin-barrelled hunting rifle is best tested by firing three-shot groups because in the field they will hardly ever fire more than three shots in rapid succession. I prefer to have perfectly bedded rifle and do my testing with five-shot groups because I get more reliable test data that way. Afterwards, remember to write the load details on the target before you leave the shooting range. If you are anything like me, you will surely have them mixed up by the time you get home!

For the more serious reloader, a good chronograph is a very useful tool. It is used to measure the velocity of the bullet and can, to a large degree, indicate how consistent a batch of loads is (and how good the accuracy potential is). Some gun clubs have chronographs available for the use of their members and I feel that it is a great idea to test your load over one, even if it is only for the record. The beginner could perhaps test his final load over a borrowed chronograph. Measuring velocities can be an important safety measure in the sense that it can demonstrate whether your load conforms to the published data in the ballistic tables of your reloading manual. Velocities that are significantly higher than recommended, mostly mean only one thing: that pressures are also too high!

As far as accuracy goes, what is good and what is not? This, again, depends entirely on your rifle and the intended use of your ammunition. Serious target shooters aim to achieve groups smaller than 12,5 mm (1/2 inch) at 100 meters but few run-of-the-mill rifles can do this consistently. For hunting rifles, I am quite happy with groups of about 25 mm (1 inch) at 100 meters. My normal hunting is done in flat open country where shots are often between 150 and 200 meters. If most of your hunting is done in bushveld conditions, where shots are unlikely to be over 100 meters, then even a 75 mm (3 inch) group will be sufficient. The caliber rifle also plays a role as some are inherently more accurate than others. For example, a .303 Br that groups inside 50 mm at 100 meters is considered good, but for a .222 this is not too great. Most of the commonly used hunting calibers such as the .243, .270, 7mm and .30-06, can group around 25 mm unless the rifle itself is inaccurate.

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1.Start with groups AFTER you fouled the barrel. (shooting the oil residue out of the barrel)

2. Wait for the barrel to cool down after every shot. A few minutes. Better groups, longer barrel life

3. Try to sit in the exact position for every shot. Be comfortable.

4. Keep the targets. To not only compare group sizes, but also shapes. (ie to detect stringing)

5. Write it down. DOPE.

6. Also note the cartridge OAL (ie jump of bullets) Some bullets/rifles are jump sensitive.

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Every so often, check that a free floating barrel is still free floating. Wooden stocks warp, dirt, dust, oil, grime builds up in there and sooner or later the barrel will touch and your accuracy will go erratic. Simply slip a note between the barrel and the stock. A R10 works just as well as a R100. It should slide freely along the whole length of the barrel. If not, disassemble, clean, re-assemble, check again.

So you bragging then?

Reminds me of the joke where a guy asks a group of people what animal is on the R200 note and everyone keeps quite. Then asks what animal is on a R10 note and everyone takes out their wallets and answers.

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So you bragging then?

Reminds me of the joke where a guy asks a group of people what animal is on the R200 note and everyone keeps quite. Then asks what animal is on a R10 note and everyone takes out their wallets and answers.

:D I had to borrow a note from my wife to check 

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8x57 rimmed, 20ga and 22 Hornet

One should have expected a 9.3mm IF it is a German Drilling. I suspect German since US and Britain would most likely not go for 8mm.

Forget the origin of the photo now but seem to remember it was a Czech bespoke build
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