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the buying a road bike dilemma


rudi-h

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Posted

I ride a road bike with disc brakes and absolutely love it. I wouldn't buy another bike without them.

 

I wouldn't say that they have any more stopping power than my previous calliper brakes, but they are just so smooth and modulated. Almost effortless. One finger operation and just super super slick. I feel absolutely zero vibration through the frame at any speed.

 

Also not sure how true it is, but I've been told by someone very much in the know, that Specialized won't be building road bikes with rim brakes after this year. Not sure if that only applies to the higher end bikes, or throughout the range.

Posted

I ride a road bike with disc brakes and absolutely love it. I wouldn't buy another bike without them.

 

I wouldn't say that they have any more stopping power than my previous calliper brakes, but they are just so smooth and modulated. Almost effortless. One finger operation and just super super slick. I feel absolutely zero vibration through the frame at any speed.

 

Also not sure how true it is, but I've been told by someone very much in the know, that Specialized won't be building road bikes with rim brakes after this year. Not sure if that only applies to the higher end bikes, or throughout the range.

 

Thanks.  Would you mind sharing here or with a PM where you bought your bike, spec, how much you paid etc.  Whether its a good decision or a bad one, I'm set on having disc brakes on my next road bike, but really don't have a clue where to start to find it and how much I should expect to fork out extra to get it.

Posted

Thanks.  Would you mind sharing here or with a PM where you bought your bike, spec, how much you paid etc.  Whether its a good decision or a bad one, I'm set on having disc brakes on my next road bike, but really don't have a clue where to start to find it and how much I should expect to fork out extra to get it.

When I got my new road bike last year I looked at disc brakes, and it was a LOT more.

Can't remember exact prices, on all the options, but I know one wheelset option was almost R48,000.00 alone (no that is not a typo ;) ) - granted there were cheaper options, but still way more than most rim brake options.

Posted

I have a Disc CX bike and I agree with most of the comments. For 95% of the populace you will not notice a marked difference between rim and disc brakes in terms of performance.

 

However you will notice a marked increase in complexity of building and running wheelsets that will fit your bike (as observed).

 

Also the availability of shifters with integrated hydraulics is very limited and they are stupid expensive at the moment.

 

The whole field is maturing quickly and its like the first MTB discs that came out which we look at with horror 10 years later.

 

If you want a general purpose bike you can do what i did - source a Chinese carbon CX frame which is disc compatible. They are not expensive and work well. Fit a 105 groupset and you will have yourself something that can be adapted to discs later on as well as run wider tyres and wheels.

 

The whole build (and i didn't skimp) was about R 30k brand new with carbon rims and 105 groupset.

 

It works very well as a road bike with skinny tyres if that is what you want, it is also future proofed if discs become the norm and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg for the latest tech.

 

And you can put fat tyres on and gravel grind as well.

 

Also think carefully about carbon rims - they are often more hassle than they are worth and a good set of carbon clinchers are over 15k. They dont save that much weight and are much more finicky to deal with. I have gone back to ally rims. Another technology that is maturing

Posted

I have a Disc CX bike and I agree with most of the comments. For 95% of the populace you will not notice a marked difference between rim and disc brakes in terms of performance.

 

However you will notice a marked increase in complexity of building and running wheelsets that will fit your bike (as observed).

 

Also the availability of shifters with integrated hydraulics is very limited and they are stupid expensive at the moment.

 

The whole field is maturing quickly and its like the first MTB discs that came out which we look at with horror 10 years later.

 

If you want a general purpose bike you can do what i did - source a Chinese carbon CX frame which is disc compatible. They are not expensive and work well. Fit a 105 groupset and you will have yourself something that can be adapted to discs later on as well as run wider tyres and wheels.

 

The whole build (and i didn't skimp) was about R 30k brand new with carbon rims and 105 groupset.

 

It works very well as a road bike with skinny tyres if that is what you want, it is also future proofed if discs become the norm and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg for the latest tech.

 

And you can put fat tyres on and gravel grind as well.

 

Also think carefully about carbon rims - they are often more hassle than they are worth and a good set of carbon clinchers are over 15k. They dont save that much weight and are much more finicky to deal with. I have gone back to ally rims. Another technology that is maturing

That's a great post, thanks.

Posted

I would wait until disks are the accepted norm before committing to them. This point is usually indicated by the manufacturers incorporating it into their more affordable ranges eg 105/Rival/Veloce etc. by then the tech is also refined and reliable.

 

 

 

Hydraulic Rival disc brakes are already here.

 

 

 

sram_rival_hrd_1000x1000.jpg?itok=a6Gcpb

Posted

 

 

If you want a general purpose bike you can do what i did - source a Chinese carbon CX frame which is disc compatible. They are not expensive and work well. Fit a 105 groupset and you will have yourself something that can be adapted to discs later on as well as run wider tyres and wheels.

 

The whole build (and i didn't skimp) was about R 30k brand new with carbon rims and 105 groupset.

 

 

 

Or, buy a conventional 10 speed Sram Red drive-chain and shifters/levers dirt cheap because everyone is "upgrading" to 11 speed and use TRP (or Hope) Cable to Hydraulic brakes.

 

You will end up with a Champagne groupo for beer money.....

Posted

Or, buy a conventional 10 speed Sram Red drive-chain and shifters/levers dirt cheap because everyone is "upgrading" to 11 speed and use TRP (or Hope) Cable to Hydraulic brakes.

 

You will end up with a Champagne groupo for beer money.....

Agreed,

 

This is what I am running for my disc brakes. Works fine

Posted

Thanks.  Would you mind sharing here or with a PM where you bought your bike, spec, how much you paid etc.  Whether its a good decision or a bad one, I'm set on having disc brakes on my next road bike, but really don't have a clue where to start to find it and how much I should expect to fork out extra to get it.

The bike is a Specialized Tarmac Sworks. Best decision ever, absolutely love it!

 

Let's just say the cost was "reasonable"...my wife is sometimes on the Hub

Posted

I have a Disc CX bike and I agree with most of the comments. For 95% of the populace you will not notice a marked difference between rim and disc brakes in terms of performance.

 

However you will notice a marked increase in complexity of building and running wheelsets that will fit your bike (as observed).

 

Also the availability of shifters with integrated hydraulics is very limited and they are stupid expensive at the moment.

 

The whole field is maturing quickly and its like the first MTB discs that came out which we look at with horror 10 years later.

 

If you want a general purpose bike you can do what i did - source a Chinese carbon CX frame which is disc compatible. They are not expensive and work well. Fit a 105 groupset and you will have yourself something that can be adapted to discs later on as well as run wider tyres and wheels.

 

The whole build (and i didn't skimp) was about R 30k brand new with carbon rims and 105 groupset.

 

It works very well as a road bike with skinny tyres if that is what you want, it is also future proofed if discs become the norm and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg for the latest tech.

 

And you can put fat tyres on and gravel grind as well.

 

Also think carefully about carbon rims - they are often more hassle than they are worth and a good set of carbon clinchers are over 15k. They dont save that much weight and are much more finicky to deal with. I have gone back to ally rims. Another technology that is maturing

 

Thanks for the feedback.  A Cyclocross bike was one of my options.  Is there a significant difference in terms of frame geometry between an CX bike and a conventional road bike?  Is a road bike significantly faster or more aero, or is it only slightly wider fork and chainstays to make space for a fatter wheels?

 

Reason I'm asking, I've noticed before when my riding buddy bought a tri-bike that the slight change in geometry between his tri-bike and roadbike was significant enough that I could hardly stay in his slipstream.  I then did a tri-conversion and straight after the conversion we were riding alongside each other again.  Just worried that I'll fork out that type of money on a bike just to be slower than I am with my current cheapy bike.

Posted

Thanks for the feedback.  A Cyclocross bike was one of my options.  Is there a significant difference in terms of frame geometry between an CX bike and a conventional road bike?  Is a road bike significantly faster or more aero, or is it only slightly wider fork and chainstays to make space for a fatter wheels?

 

Reason I'm asking, I've noticed before when my riding buddy bought a tri-bike that the slight change in geometry between his tri-bike and roadbike was significant enough that I could hardly stay in his slipstream.  I then did a tri-conversion and straight after the conversion we were riding alongside each other again.  Just worried that I'll fork out that type of money on a bike just to be slower than I am with my current cheapy bike.

The CX bike can be exactly the same as a road bike or it can be significantly more off road oriented. Depending on how you build it, which is essentially related to gearing i.e. crank rings, rim widths and weights and strengths (determined by what you expect to ride) and tyre widths you run (CX goes up to 42mm), you will significantly change the amount of rolling resistance on it and consequently the speed of the bike on pure road rides.

 

Aero wise the bike is slightly bigger and heavier probably with a more relaxed geometry. As a result it is less aero.

 

It depends what you want to do. a CX bike is like having an SUV in day to day driving - you have made some compromises and wont beat the kids in a robot to robot dice but when they get to the speed humps they are sweating that their front bibs will catch. The compromises are there but are marginal. If you build it with 28mm road going tires you are styling - uber comfort ride on the road.

 

Most of the CX folks want to gravel grind though - that is where the bike is really unique - you can't do that on you aero deep section rimmed road bikes....

 

Having said that - I was riding my normal road bike - a Colnago C40, on Saturday and compared to my CX bike which i rode the day before over a similar distance the road bike is appreciably faster - however it was not really scientific as a comparison.

 

The areas where I saw the difference is on the rolling resistance of a 35 mm set of hybrid CX tyres (conti) versus a set of 25mm Tyres (Conti Road tyres) and in the top speed in that my CX bike has MTB gearing (36 cluster) with a CX crank so i haven't got as much top end. On the Colnago road bike my top speeds were higher.

 

So yes you will not have the advantages of all the best features of a pure road bike, but as I said it depends what you want to do and where you aspire to ride. As a pure road race bike it is not the best idea if you want every advantage you can get.

Posted

I had this same dilemma not 2 weeks ago.

 

Had a choice between two cannondale's a 2015 Caad10 105 with callipers and a 2016 CaadX 105 cyclocross (disc)

 

I was lucky enough to ride both for a good 45 min off the shop floor, (Evans Cycles UK is really cool in that sense)

 

I'm from a MTB background and this is my first road bike so most likely not the most reliable judge.

 

I ended taking the cyclocross bike, Can use it on the gravel roads when back in SA

 

In terms of braking, I couldn't really tell much difference to be honest.

 

From a MTB point of view the rotors are quite small on the road bikes (140mm back and 160mm front), also the cable discs are not as good as the hydraulic (limited due to most shifters combinations being cable operated). 

 

I must say though I've used the bike on some long steep descents and a lack of braking hasn't been a problem

 

Another point to consider is wheel options, at the moment very few manufactures are making disc road wheels. There are basically 2 groups, cheaper entry level wheels and top range (no middle class at this point in time, however this may or may not change?)

 

The general feeling from most of the shops I spoke to over here in the UK was that there would be a change over to disc in the nearish future (whether this was them trying to sell more bikes is anyone's guess)

 

if you go for a cyclocross with discs for mostly road use, look carefully at the wheels, some of them are wider rimed to take the 32mm cross tyres with narrowest tyres being 25 - 28mm in some cases

 

In terms of bikes with discs you could look at the new Cannondale Caad12 105 its unfortunately not carbon, but reviews so far look really good.

post-13613-0-99668500-1459183069_thumb.jpg

Posted

I've been wanting a disc equipped road bike for the past 4 years now, note that I also started cycling 4 years ago :P

 

I have had my MTB, 2 road bikes and a CX bike in attempt to satisfy my desires, but at the end of the day I still wanted a roadie with discs. Why? Because I love them, so so much. The main reason being consistent and dependable braking all year round - I can't count on my two hands how many times I have ridden my roadies down Chapman's Peak, Suikerbossie and Smitswinkel in the rain and I would be squeezing those road levers with a deathgrip for only just enough brakes to slow me down. Not a problem on my MTB though, the discs really do their job well.

 

So like you, I have been waiting for discs on roadies to surface, but they just aren't? Not in bike shops anyways. This has pushed me to go ahead with a handbuilt steel frame that is both disc ready and futureproof. I have had several bumps in the road to date, I'll try keep this short:

 

a. Brake and axle standards

b. Wheelsets

c. Tyres

d. Framesets

 

 

a. Brake and axle standards

 

Disc brake standards have not settled at all, and in the latest news it seems that it will be something like this:

 

- Front: flat-mount disc with 12x100mm thru axle

- Rear: flat-mount disc with 12x142mm thu axle

 

I have seen a handful of disc roadies in the past year, and they are all post-mount and have QR wheels. I can't help that think those bikes will be obsolete in the next year or two when industry standards settle because post-mount is not backwards compatible with the flat mount standard - there is a flat-mount to post mount brake adapter, but not the other way around. So with a post-mount brake QR  frameset, you won't be able to upgrade to the latest iteration of disc groupsets.

 

http://www.roadbikereview.com/reviews/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/fork-15qr-700x524.jpg

 

http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/bikes-and-gear/bikes/road/zenium-sl--9-of-14--1453464284039-101h0m22i60kq-960-540.jpg

 

http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Rose-Bikes_X-Lite-CW_thru-axle-fork_disc-brake-mount-detail.jpg

 

Next is that a pair of hydraulic road shifters and brakes will, more often than not, cost as much as a complete bike. And again, you don't want to be stuck with something that is available now that will be phased out in the next year or two. Because of this cable discs are great in my opinion:

 

- they allow you to use whatever groupset you want, and are simple nad easy to fix/maintain. Upgrade your groupset(s) at will!

 

- they are also available in the post-mount standard as well as flat mounts now. Check out TRP's Spyre brakes :D

 

http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/news/2013/12/11/1386771872937-1c1z2wt4lo4rs-700-80.jpg

23877_trp_spyre_flat_mount_disc_brake.jp

 

b. Wheelsets

 

No one stocks road disc wheelsets locally, no one. I have been to every single shop around where I stay and there is simply nothing. The best route is likely having a set handbuilt: your choice of hubs (thru axle with QR adapters is a must) laced to Stan's Grail rims. The rims have a nice profile for the road and are tubeless ready, I choose these over carbon rims hands down, not that I won't have a set of carbon wheels ready for race day :P The next alternative is to buy online, Chainreaction Cycles has a fair range of road disc wheelsets available ranging from dirt cheap Mavic Aksium One discs to Fulcrum Racing 5 discs and beyond. However, the most futureproof wheels they have are the Kinesis Racelights which accommodate for all the axle standards you may need and are tubeless compatible.

 

http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/stans-notubes-grail-gravel-road-bike-rims-preview2.jpg

 

 

c. Tyres

 

I want tubeless road tyres, period. I am so done with punctures, granted I haven't had any since riding continental GP 4seasons. Then there is the fear of a tubeless tyre burping when you are bombing down a hill at 90km/h+ or cornering hard, but that is a discussion for another day. Tyre size is a bit more important, do you want to run 25mm, 28mm, 32mm, 35mm or 42mm? I want to run 32mm for myself, but tyre choice limits me to 28mm which is fine.

 

http://photo.velo101.com/2013/grande/tubeless_hutchinson_sector_28.jpg

 

 

d. Framesets

 

If you're like me, you want a bike that can do it all. I want my bike to be able to use any and all of the brake and axle standards, all of the wheels and all of the tyre sizes. I don't want to be stuck with something this is unable to adapt to change. My opinion is that a frameset which can accomodate larger tyres is great, looks abit funny with skinny tyres but does the job perfectly well. I have ridden my CX bike in many road races while my roadies have been out of action and it performs no less than the roadies in the slightest. Some of my best times are all set on that CX actually.

 

If you want you bike to last more than 10 years, think long and hard about your frame in terms of both materials and standards. In shopping around, more than one carbon fork manufacturer has advised that any carbon disc fork should be replaced after 5 years.  Carbon is great, it is gorgeous, light and is a pleasure to ride (and to drool over and caress when you are not riding) but I wouldn't trust my life on it at high speeds on bad roads. I have come downhill at that 90km/h+ on very bad roads and have prayed for my life; my 95kgs on this 1,1kg frameset, at this speed? Will my fork snap on the next bump or will my integrated carbon handlebar-stem give in? I can't deal with those worries anymore, so I'm moving to steel. I have carbon and aluminium bikes at the moment, but steel is better suited for my specific needs. My frameset will be able to accept any axle standard, brake standard and whatever wheels and tyres I put on to it, as to how this will be achieved, it is my little secret for now.

 

This may or may not have been helpful, I may have even ruined everything and over complicated this, but I am quite tired but still wanted to share some of my thoughts. Heading off to dream about my new bike now...

 

http://roadbikeaction.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/StainlessSnobDisc-4.jpg

 

http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/news/2012/09/24/1348580625297-z22k7lrjuksp-960-540.jpg

 

http://theradavist.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Niners-RLT-9-Steel-Disc-Cross-Bike-with-Ultegra-Hydro-19-1335x890.jpg

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