boemelaar_bob Posted April 2, 2016 Posted April 2, 2016 Hi guys. How will fitting 100mm travel forks onto a frame setup for (comes standard with) 120mm forks affect the feel of the bike and my ride? Cheers ????????????????
Ryanpmb Posted April 2, 2016 Posted April 2, 2016 Missing the 20mm is a bit of a sweeping statement. When I moved from my 150mm 456 to my rigid Niner I didn't miss the travel. It's a different ride. A personal preference. What you're prepared for. That said - if your frame is designed around a 120mm fork you will be changing the intended geometry that the bike design is based on. You will sharpen the HA and SA and lower the BB height. Steering will potentially become twitchy and bike will more than likely not ride as intended. What is the reasoning/ thinking behind adjusting the suspension?
boemelaar_bob Posted April 2, 2016 Author Posted April 2, 2016 Missing the 20mm is a bit of a sweeping statement. When I moved from my 150mm 456 to my rigid Niner I didn't miss the travel. It's a different ride. A personal preference. What you're prepared for. That said - if your frame is designed around a 120mm fork you will be changing the intended geometry that the bike design is based on. You will sharpen the HA and SA and lower the BB height. Steering will potentially become twitchy and bike will more than likely not ride as intended. What is the reasoning/ thinking behind adjusting the suspension?Thank you for the explanation. The reason for the change is that I bought a frame to build up and don't have a 120mm fork. Apparently a 120mm fork with a 1 1/8" straight steerer and 15mm TA is very difficult to come by. I'll keep looking though... Looks like 120mm is the way to go.
Myth Posted April 2, 2016 Posted April 2, 2016 Depending on the wheels you have you may be able to convert the front wheel to 9mm axle? If that's a possibility for you there are a few Manitou forks on CRC that can work...
PeterF Posted April 2, 2016 Posted April 2, 2016 Thank you for the explanation. The reason for the change is that I bought a frame to build up and don't have a 120mm fork. Apparently a 120mm fork with a 1 1/8" straight steerer and 15mm TA is very difficult to come by. I'll keep looking though... Looks like 120mm is the way to go. Even though some frames have a straight head tube they may be able to take a tapered fork with the correct headset. Here is a picture of my Turner's straight head tube and the fork has a tapered steerer.
boemelaar_bob Posted April 2, 2016 Author Posted April 2, 2016 Even though some frames have a straight head tube they may be able to take a tapered fork with the correct headset. Here is a picture of my Turner's straight head tube and the fork has a tapered steerer. IMG_0993.JPGThank you Peter That is very interesting! I did some research on doing exactly that. All the info I found said not to do it... Do you have an idea of what size straight headsets work with what size tapered forks?
BaGearA Posted April 2, 2016 Posted April 2, 2016 Thank you Peter That is very interesting! I did some research on doing exactly that. All the info I found said not to do it... Do you have an idea of what size straight headsets work with what size tapered forks?Hope have a whole range of headsets just to fit forks and headsets that don't match , But it's Hope so you are going to feel it in the wallet
Jewbacca Posted April 2, 2016 Posted April 2, 2016 I think the big one is the 44mm ID of the head tube. You need that to be able to run an external cup and bearing. I am not sure if they have worked out the 40mm one properly? A heap of steel bikes are sold with this as a standard, so it is definitely not 'frowned upon' or ill advised. My old SIR9 has the old 1 1/8th standard headset with external bearings so there is definitely no fix there, but the 44mm ID oversize allows an internal top bearing and external bottom bearing. Good luck. I saw a decent headset built just for this on Chainreactioncycles for a little over R300.. worth a look at.
PeterF Posted April 2, 2016 Posted April 2, 2016 I think the big one is the 44mm ID of the head tube. You need that to be able to run an external cup and bearing. I am not sure if they have worked out the 40mm one properly? A heap of steel bikes are sold with this as a standard, so it is definitely not 'frowned upon' or ill advised. My old SIR9 has the old 1 1/8th standard headset with external bearings so there is definitely no fix there, but the 44mm ID oversize allows an internal top bearing and external bottom bearing. Good luck. I saw a decent headset built just for this on Chainreactioncycles for a little over R300.. worth a look at.Yes, my Turner has exactly that a 44mm ID. Rob if you are in P.E i suggest that you take the frame to Cyclo Pro and speak to Andrew. He will be able to give you the best advice regarding your options.
Ryanpmb Posted April 2, 2016 Posted April 2, 2016 Even though some frames have a straight head tube they may be able to take a tapered fork with the correct headset. Here is a picture of my Turner's straight head tube and the fork has a tapered steerer. IMG_0993.JPGWhether the head tube is straight or not isn't the factor. It's the ID of the head tube. This coupled with some headset trickery can accept a tapered steerer, although it will tend to raise the bike, BB height, HA etc etc...
PeterF Posted April 2, 2016 Posted April 2, 2016 Whether the head tube is straight or not isn't the factor. It's the ID of the head tube. This coupled with some headset trickery can accept a tapered steerer, although it will tend to raise the bike, BB height, HA etc etc...100% correct. That is why I said it may be able to take a tapered steerer and not it will be able to.
Matchstix Posted April 2, 2016 Posted April 2, 2016 As far as I know Mr Schurter rides with a 100mm fork in a 120mm travel spark. But then again it's Nino
boemelaar_bob Posted April 3, 2016 Author Posted April 3, 2016 Thanks for the advice guys Okay, So I am no bike mechanic so please check if i have understood you correctly... ID (internal diameter)?? a 44.0mm is 1 1/8 Zero Stack or integrated headset with internal bearings. The headset I have is a 1-1/8" zero stack headset with means that it is slightly larger than a external bearing headset 1-1/8" (44mm) to accommodate the internal bearings.
droo Posted April 4, 2016 Posted April 4, 2016 Zerostack is semi-integrated, and will be able to take the headset you need to run a fork with a tapered steerer. The SHIS code you're looking for is EC44/40. The integrated headset is a different animal and can't be converted.
boemelaar_bob Posted April 4, 2016 Author Posted April 4, 2016 Zerostack is semi-integrated, and will be able to take the headset you need to run a fork with a tapered steerer. The SHIS code you're looking for is EC44/40. The integrated headset is a different animal and can't be converted. So let me get this straight: a tapered steerer is the preferred steerer to use in this headset?
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