Giant Maestro suspension bearing sizes

[HugovdMerwe]

I am disgusted with the price of so-called "suspension service kits" from the bicycle manufacturers. These are just industrial bearings which are readily available, much cheaper and sometimes even of better quality. I thus post some bearing sizes here for anybody's perusal:

 

To replace all the bearings on a Giant Anthem Maestro suspension you need the following bearings:

U-Link chainstay pivot: ID=15mm OD=28mm width=7mm, bearing number 6902 (2 off required)

Lower shock eyelet: 15/24 w=5 bearing nr 6802 (4 off)

Rock arm frame pivot: 10/22 w=6 bearing nr 6900 (2 off)

Rock arm seat stay pivot: 10/19 w=7 bearing nr 63800 (2 off)

 

Make sure you get "sealed and lubricated" bearings, which is indicated by some letters after the number, depending on the bearing manufacturer. For example, a bearing from the manufacturer NSK will be denoted 6902DD.

[MTBeer]

most bearing brands use .RSR or ZR as a suffix behind the number

 

6802.2RSR will be 2 rubber seals

6802.2ZR will be 2 metallic sheilds

[wonduhboy]

I am disgusted with the price of so-called "suspension service kits" from the bicycle manufacturers. These are just industrial bearings which are readily available, much cheaper and sometimes even of better quality. I thus post some bearing sizes here for anybody's perusal:

 

To replace all the bearings on a Giant Anthem Maestro suspension you need the following bearings:

U-Link chainstay pivot: ID=15mm OD=28mm width=7mm, bearing number 6902 (2 off required)

Lower shock eyelet: 15/24 w=5 bearing nr 6802 (4 off)

Rock arm frame pivot: 10/22 w=6 bearing nr 6900 (2 off)

Rock arm seat stay pivot: 10/19 w=7 bearing nr 63800 (2 off)

 

Make sure you get "sealed and lubricated" bearings, which is indicated by some letters after the number, depending on the bearing manufacturer. For example, a bearing from the manufacturer NSK will be denoted 6902DD.

You, Sir, are a scholar and a gentleman!

Was looking for this info.

 

Now, if someone wants to post a vid of how to change these, I will be eternally grateful!

[madbradd]

Are suspension bearings not special "angular" bearings that are designed to work while only moving within a small range? This may be a "marketing" thing but the logic makes sense.

 

An industrial bearing normally runs on a spinning shaft - hub, motor etc where you have prolonged motion in a certain direction (many revolutions), where a suspension bearing rotates backward and forward on the same spot continually (rotating less than a quarter of a revolution each time)

 

So to me the argument that a specific bearing makes sense, but whether or not it is really that different, I don't know.

 

By the way, what did that set of bearings cost and from who? I also have an Anthem and would definitely replace pivots more often if I could afford to!

[rickus grobled]

Would like to know as well!

[Wolfie1]

Are suspension bearings not special "angular" bearings that are designed to work while only moving within a small range? This may be a "marketing" thing but the logic makes sense.

 

An industrial bearing normally runs on a spinning shaft - hub, motor etc where you have prolonged motion in a certain direction (many revolutions), where a suspension bearing rotates backward and forward on the same spot continually (rotating less than a quarter of a revolution each time)

 

So to me the argument that a specific bearing makes sense, but whether or not it is really that different, I don't know.

 

By the way, what did that set of bearings cost and from who? I also have an Anthem and would definitely replace pivots more often if I could afford to!

 

At the price these so called angular contact bearings are going for you can replace those normal bearings 3 times for the same price.

 

My argument! Been riding normal standard industrial bearings for a number of years and could not feel any difference in flex or movement in the frame.

 

Unless you have a rockey mountain element....then you are screwed!! 

Angular contact bushes made only by them

 

My 2c

[MTBeer]

Are suspension bearings not special "angular" bearings that are designed to work while only moving within a small range? This may be a "marketing" thing but the logic makes sense.

 

An industrial bearing normally runs on a spinning shaft - hub, motor etc where you have prolonged motion in a certain direction (many revolutions), where a suspension bearing rotates backward and forward on the same spot continually (rotating less than a quarter of a revolution each time)

 

So to me the argument that a specific bearing makes sense, but whether or not it is really that different, I don't know.

 

By the way, what did that set of bearings cost and from who? I also have an Anthem and would definitely replace pivots more often if I could afford to!

The bearings are standard. Just had mine done and the bearing numbers are on the invoice.

[madbradd]

Good to know that they're standard. Going to do my own next time for sure!

 

Any manufacturer's to recommend? and suppliers in JHB? and where to get tools to remove old ones and insert new ones? I suppose it's easier (and possibly cheaper) to fit new ones than maintain them.

[droo]

The bearings you're looking for are full complement, not angular contact. They have more balls so distribute the loads better, and are better for oscillating applications where the bearing only uses a small range of motion.

 

You can use standard bearings, but they won't last as long.

 

There are some bikes that use angular contact bearings, Santa Cruz and Intense being among them, but this needs a different axle configuration.

[Mawbs]

Good to know that they're standard. Going to do my own next time for sure!

 

Any manufacturer's to recommend? and suppliers in JHB? and where to get tools to remove old ones and insert new ones? I suppose it's easier (and possibly cheaper) to fit new ones than maintain them.

 

you dont need special tools. just a long bolt some correct sized washers and use a socket set and you can do it yourself

[madbradd]

The bearings you're looking for are full complement, not angular contact. They have more balls so distribute the loads better, and are better for oscillating applications where the bearing only uses a small range of motion.

 

You can use standard bearings, but they won't last as long.

 

There are some bikes that use angular contact bearings, Santa Cruz and Intense being among them, but this needs a different axle configuration.

 

Also great information! Thanks Droo.

 

Would rollers then be better than balls as well?

[droo]

Also great information! Thanks Droo.

 

Would rollers then be better than balls as well?

 

Probably, but you'll battle to get them in the necessary sizes.

[Capricorn]

Also great information! Thanks Droo.

 

Would rollers then be better than balls as well?

it depends. ball bearings are the simplest and most efficient because of the small contact points between the balls and the races. It's also this contact point that can cause overloading leading to ball or race damage. (Pressure = Force/Area)

A roller bearing has a contact line, so it distributes the applied over a relatively wider area. Wider = bigger and thus heavier. Also, the line of contact means higher friction with the races.

 

So to say roller bearings would be better than ball bearings is very much dependent upon application. On a bicycle, i'd say no. Ball bearings win hands down.

In fact, if they used a bushing, that was ridiculously low wearing and even more ridiculously slippery, i'd use that over a roller bearing any day.

[dirtypot]

I am disgusted with the price of so-called "suspension service kits" from the bicycle manufacturers. These are just industrial bearings which are readily available, much cheaper and sometimes even of better quality. I thus post some bearing sizes here for anybody's perusal:

 

To replace all the bearings on a Giant Anthem Maestro suspension you need the following bearings:

U-Link chainstay pivot: ID=15mm OD=28mm width=7mm, bearing number 6902 (2 off required)

Lower shock eyelet: 15/24 w=5 bearing nr 6802 (4 off)

Rock arm frame pivot: 10/22 w=6 bearing nr 6900 (2 off)

Rock arm seat stay pivot: 10/19 w=7 bearing nr 63800 (2 off)

 

Make sure you get "sealed and lubricated" bearings, which is indicated by some letters after the number, depending on the bearing manufacturer. For example, a bearing from the manufacturer NSK will be denoted 6902DD.

 

 

This information is not hidden away though...  Clean the dirt from the side of your old bearing and you'll see the bearing number clearly on the side (if your eyesight is 20/20).  You don't even need to take it out to see.

 

You can do the job yourself on an Anthem, but if you've not done it before I guarantee that you'll scratch the frame/swingarm and stuff up at least one of the bearings   

[JXV]

I am disgusted with the price of so-called "suspension service kits" from the bicycle manufacturers. These are just industrial bearings which are readily available, much cheaper and sometimes even of better quality. I thus post some bearing sizes here for anybody's perusal:

 

To replace all the bearings on a Giant Anthem Maestro suspension you need the following bearings:

U-Link chainstay pivot: ID=15mm OD=28mm width=7mm, bearing number 6902 (2 off required)

Lower shock eyelet: 15/24 w=5 bearing nr 6802 (4 off)

Rock arm frame pivot: 10/22 w=6 bearing nr 6900 (2 off)

Rock arm seat stay pivot: 10/19 w=7 bearing nr 63800 (2 off)

 

Make sure you get "sealed and lubricated" bearings, which is indicated by some letters after the number, depending on the bearing manufacturer. For example, a bearing from the manufacturer NSK will be denoted 6902DD.

Yes and beware the real cheapy stuff. Quality brands like Timken, NSK, SKF, FAG and BMG are OK. Be careful as there are genuine looking knock-offs of these brands floating around.

 

In reality the Enduro bearing kits sold in bike shops may last longer as they often specify full-complement bearings for partially rotating pivot bearings. Such bearings have higher radial load capacity due to more balls in the race as result of either no spacer or a spacer with smaller gaps. Prices are crazy though when you buy via a supplier like Enduro who sells low volumes through multiple middlemen who eventually supply your LBS......

 

Some will advise to add extra grease when fitting pivot bearings but this runs the risk of damaging seals and allowing dirt in faster .... you choose.

 

Stainless Steel bearings offer more resistance against moisture as do ceramics but these are usually much more pricey..

 

And if you gonna DIY it get the right tools. Plz don't hammer in a bearing by bashing the inner race to seat the outer. This crossloads the balls and creates dents in the races....and drastically shortens life.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[madbradd]

it depends. ball bearings are the simplest and most efficient because of the small contact points between the balls and the races. It's also this contact point that can cause overloading leading to ball or race damage. (Pressure = Force/Area)

A roller bearing has a contact line, so it distributes the applied over a relatively wider area. Wider = bigger and thus heavier. Also, the line of contact means higher friction with the races.

 

So to say roller bearings would be better than ball bearings is very much dependent upon application. On a bicycle, i'd say no. Roller bearings win hands down.

In fact, if they used a bushing, that was ridiculously low wearing and even more ridiculously slippery, i'd use that over a roller bearing any day.

 

Not sure if I'm reading that right.... "Are roller bearings better; No; Roller Bearings are better".

 

My understanding on the bushing is that the "stiction" is the main deterrent - ie force required to start the movement. Though some might say this would be a built in "Brain" function