Bearing Stuck To Suspension Pivot Bolt

[dev null]

Hubbers

 

I have a problem with on one of my suspension pivot bearings that is stuck to the pivot bolt.  I need to remove it to fit a new bearing, but I can't seem to get to budge.  It is stuck right against the bolt head, so there is now way I can get something in there to pull the bearing off.

 

Any ideas?

 

Would heating it up to get the metal to expand help?

Edited May 15, 2016 by Moridin

[clement]

Yes, either heat up the bearing inner race or if access is difficult try cooling down the bolt.

[David Marshall]

Best is to try and get hold of a small bearing separator as in the pic.  You can also try to fit a nut onto the bolt and try to tap the bolt out while supporting the bearing over the jaws of a vice.  The bolt thread must not protrude above the nut otherwise the bolt will be damaged.  If the bearing collapses and separates, leaving the inner race still stuck to the bolt you can run a small weld onto the race.  The weld must only cover about a 1/4 of the race.  The uneven heating usually allows you to easily remove the race.

[dev null]

Best is to try and get hold of a small bearing separator as in the pic.  You can also try to fit a nut onto the bolt and try to tap the bolt out while supporting the bearing over the jaws of a vice.  The bolt thread must not protrude above the nut otherwise the bolt will be damaged.  If the bearing collapses and separates, leaving the inner race still stuck to the bolt you can run a small weld onto the race.  The weld must only cover about a 1/4 of the race.  The uneven heating usually allows you to easily remove the race.

 

Like using a TIG welder arc to heat up the inner race?

 

I have tried hitting the bolt out while supporting the outer race, which only protrudes about 1/2 a millimeter outside the bolt head.  Would not budge.  Even had the whole thing in penetrating oil to help.

 

Will BMG have such a bearing separator tool?

Edited May 15, 2016 by Moridin

[dev null]

Here is a pic of my problem.

 

 

[RyanD]

Mordin is the bolt a special item. What about replacing bolt and bearing. With tapping, heating and clamping, perhaps cut your loss and replace the bolt whilst you have it all apart, re assemble with copperslip but I think you know that last bit.

[ichnusa]

Tap a carpet / stanley knife blade in from one side, and another from the other.  Once it has shifted a bit, it should move more easily...

[dev null]

Mordin is the bolt a special item. What about replacing bolt and bearing. With tapping, heating and clamping, perhaps cut your loss and replace the bolt whilst you have it all apart, re assemble with copperslip but I think you know that last bit.

 

Yes, a special item, only supplied in a suspension bolt set from BMC, and priced at about 65 quid (about R1200 - R1500 then).

 

https://www.evanscycles.com/bmc-fourstroke-and-supertrail-bolt-kit-00116836

[JXV]

I have an idea the bolt is alloy and the bearing obviously steel. With a little water getting in corrosion may have occurred and the corrosion products build up in the joint making it very difficult to remove.

 

It will be difficult to heat the bolt and bearing differentially but you could try this:

1) heat the bolt and bearing up to around 180 degC in an oven. Grease in the bearing may smoke or burn.

2) remove from the oven using pliers to hold the bearing.

3) touch either the head or end of the bolt to a piece of ice for a few seconds to cool the bolt

4) try to hammer or press the bolt out again

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[Eugene Brown]

If all else fails, use a Dremel tool to cut off the outer race, then the inner race. I'm assuming the bearing is cheaper than that bolt set!

[NicNacDH]

Little jar just enough for the bolt, spray Q20 in and let it soak over night.

May help?

[GreatGusto]

If all else fails, use a Dremel tool to cut off the outer race, then the inner race. I'm assuming the bearing is cheaper than that bolt set!

 

This.  Had exactly the same problem with an alternator once.  Works perfectly if you have patience.

Edited May 15, 2016 by GreatGusto

[V12man]

Clamp the bearing in a vice and tap the bolt out - use a nut to protect the thread end where you hit it

[Eugene Brown]

Looking at the end of the bolt opposite where the bearing is, it looks as though there are 2 ridges worn into the bolt. Can't make a call from that photo, but maybe it needs replacing anyhow

[Eugene Brown]

For the technically correct procedure, machine a hole with a diameter fractionally bigger than the bolt head into a 20mm piece of flat plate. This will clear the head, but still "bite" the bearing outer race's edge. Either press the bolt out, or clamp in a vice to press if out. The shock from hammering may just cause the corrosion/whatever has caused the seize to just bite more, and not budge. Good luck!

[madmarc]

At the risk of damaging the bolt if you not careful. try this.

 

Position the bearing on a hard surface like a vice. Position a cold chisel on the outer race and smack it with a hammer to crack the outer race, once its cracked you should be able to pull the outer race off with the balls, if not, then turn it and smack the opposite side to fracture it in two places. Once the inner race is exposed then do the same procedure. Once you cracked the inner race it will slide off fairly easy.

 

Use safety glasses, bearings like to shatter when you smack and break them. 

 

Removed lots of stick bearings this way - works every time