Bizkit031 Posted July 4, 2016 Posted July 4, 2016 I've done it and with a SID XX WC 2012 Dual Air so was just a spacer removal. Found 110mm was the best compromise for racing but that's at the sharp end. 120mm was defiantly more fun and stable when hitting rock gardens at speed, climbing was a compromise but only on the really steep stuff where the bike was trying to pop wheelies. For your fork you will need to buy a new 120mm air spring ±R1200. I ride hard and did some enduro's on the bike as well as a few 4m gap jumps and all was fine, I am on the light side at 60kg though. That's why all was fine,60kg says it all you must do the same thing on that bike with a 100kg on it. It's not going to be pretty????
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted July 4, 2016 Posted July 4, 2016 Lol!I think you have missed most of Myles' posts for a while, I doubt he would be recommending MM's though.I always recommend Magic Marys... Every single time. Running Onza Ibex at the moment, and next tyre I'm gonna try is a Maxxis Shorty, if I can find it. But always Magic. Need to fix mine after I managed to pinch it on the rim. TINY gash, just at the lip of the rim. Small enough for the sealant not to seal, and in JUST the wrong place. Go to recommendation - Magic Mary Super Gravity Trailstar.
Two-Stroke Posted July 4, 2016 Author Posted July 4, 2016 That's why all was fine,60kg says it all you must do the same thing on that bike with a 100kg on it. It's not going to be prettySee this kinda comment is concerning. I'm closer to the 100 mark than 60. Not fat or round, just happen to be more of a sturdy build than racing snake skinny. What are you basing your comment on? Realistically, is the headtube likely to fail? The carbon lay-up around the headtube is probably the strongest of the whole frame, far exceeding forces the bike will experience in it's lifetime. My riding style is dirt-roadie type stuff, with weekends spent on the Stellenbosch area's trails. Most air the bike sees is between the small rollers at Coetzenberg, Eden and Gspot, or occasional smaller obstacles on Jonkershoek trails. Drop-off's and big air jumps aren't on my bucket list.
Paul Ruinaard Posted July 4, 2016 Posted July 4, 2016 See this kinda comment is concerning. I'm closer to the 100 mark than 60. Not fat or round, just happen to be more of a sturdy build than racing snake skinny. What are you basing your comment on? Realistically, is the headtube likely to fail? The carbon lay-up around the headtube is probably the strongest of the whole frame, far exceeding forces the bike will experience in it's lifetime. My riding style is dirt-roadie type stuff, with weekends spent on the Stellenbosch area's trails. Most air the bike sees is between the small rollers at Coetzenberg, Eden and Gspot, or occasional smaller obstacles on Jonkershoek trails. Drop-off's and big air jumps aren't on my bucket list.I am 110kgs. Worked fine for me. Carbon is pretty strong..
SCD Posted July 4, 2016 Posted July 4, 2016 I am running a 120 Sid XXWC on my Element. Fork works very nicely, stiff enough for my liking and lots more fun than 100mm. As said before, if your SID is solo air you will need a new airshaft. Droo of Stoke can sort you out or Cape Cycle Systems directly.
intern Posted July 4, 2016 Posted July 4, 2016 I whacked a RockShox Reba RL 120 on my 2012 S-Works 26 incher. Feels a bit different at first, but not a major 'thing', got used to it PDQ.
Two-Stroke Posted July 5, 2016 Author Posted July 5, 2016 Alrighty then, so it's feasible assuming my fork is a SID B model. I'll make a few calls, get some quotes and drop an update here on the outcome. Thanks all for the inputs! Let's hope the SID design isn't too spaghetti like for more travel.
Two-Stroke Posted July 7, 2016 Author Posted July 7, 2016 Some calls made and it seems like mine is a SID B model, and travel can be fairly easily increased to 120mm by installing a longer airpring unit. They're not cheap though! Hoping the extra travel doesn't make the fork too noodley.
Two-Stroke Posted August 16, 2016 Author Posted August 16, 2016 So after doing some more reading, it seems like increasing a SID to 120mm would be a big compromise in terms of sturdiness. At 100mm it's already slightly noodley considering that it's a lightweight design aiming at lightweight racing type riders. How does the Reba compare in stiffness to the SID? Getting mixed reports, some saying that they share the same lowers/materials, and others claiming the Reba to be sturdier. Anyone with some first-hand experience of both?
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted August 16, 2016 Posted August 16, 2016 So after doing some more reading, it seems like increasing a SID to 120mm would be a big compromise in terms of sturdiness. At 100mm it's already slightly noodley considering that it's a lightweight design aiming at lightweight racing type riders. How does the Reba compare in stiffness to the SID? Getting mixed reports, some saying that they share the same lowers/materials, and others claiming the Reba to be sturdier. Anyone with some first-hand experience of both?Much stiffer. The Sid is an out and out race fork. The Reba is not
Mambat Posted August 16, 2016 Posted August 16, 2016 I have an older Reba Dual Air 120mm on my 29er Trance that is super stiff... It does have the 20mm through axle which is something to consider,they are not easy to come by but do make the fork a lot stiffer than the QR version! Good luck!
Two-Stroke Posted August 17, 2016 Author Posted August 17, 2016 Cool, thanks for the replies. Seems like the hunt is evolving to look for a Reba instead.
nox1111 Posted August 25, 2016 Posted August 25, 2016 Cool, thanks for the replies. Seems like the hunt is evolving to look for a Reba instead.http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/za/en/x-fusion-slide-rl2-forks-2016/rp-prod140400 of die http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/za/en/marzocchi-320-lr-forks-15mm-2016/rp-prod128496
Pikey Posted August 25, 2016 Posted August 25, 2016 20mm will effect the climbing . Even though I didn't do it on a spez,I added 20 mm over recommend travel on a tallboy . Was awesome on the downs and sweeping stuff . But as soon as anything pointed up, the front end lifted quicker than a teenage boy about to get it on which made it sketchy and very uncomfortable to ride . Climbing anything never mind rocks was k@k. Needless to say only did one ride. And went back to the max recommend 120. Way better! Handles like it should. Just my thoughts ...but I suppose it depends what you want out of the bike. Oh and emailed Sc in the USA and although they never admitted it they said they don't for see any problems at 130 mm travel. But never said outright it was ok,but they can't . This after I asked about 140/130.
Schnavel Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Reviving an old thread here, but can anyone give some more feedback on the long term reviews of riding an epic with a 120mm fork? I have a 2015 Epic Sworks with a 100mm travel RS1 and considering converting it to 120mm. Anyone done a similar conversion? How much difference does it make?
Odinson Posted July 13, 2018 Posted July 13, 2018 Reviving an old thread here, but can anyone give some more feedback on the long term reviews of riding an epic with a 120mm fork? I have a 2015 Epic Sworks with a 100mm travel RS1 and considering converting it to 120mm. Anyone done a similar conversion? How much difference does it make? It'll be perfectly fine. That extra 20mm will only marginally raise the BB and cockpit. You can even drop a spacer or two if you want to keep the same stack height. The bike will definitely be more forgiving on the downhills.
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