Fisan Posted August 22, 2016 Share For WP mountains a 32 front .Gauteng a 34 works well Yup. 32T works pretty well in and around Cpt. Your first few encounters with the really steep hills will be challenging, and you may even feel some regret for going 1x, but that feeling soon disappear as you get used to ratios. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodsmyboy Posted August 22, 2016 Share I was able to keep using the RD. The compromise will be on top end speed and on the granny. However, as i understand it, and knowledgeable hubbers please correct me, the loss in top end speed/climbing on a 1x10 won't me more or less than a 1x11 as this will be determined by the size of the chainring. I was sent a similar table as attached by a fellow hubber as a means to better understand the gearing ratios between cassettes and single/triple combos. My drivetrain was shot so i thought i would try the 1x thing. I went with a 30t chainring and the 11-42 as i'm still festively plump and can't power up the hills with a 34t like some of the ysters around here can. On the 30t you are very close to the ratio of your current granny gear and on the top end you would lose the 3 highest gears. As i mostly use my MTB for offroad riding top end is not that much of an issue for me. Are the hills a bit tougher yes very slightly, but impossible no. Hope i got the gist of it correct. i am still learning as i go but loving every bit of it.Excellent. So, as I am also, as you say: festively plump, recommended is 30t with possibility of changing up to 32t when feeling better at it. Also not too much an yster for these mountains but we will get there. Shot for info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferro Posted August 22, 2016 Share Excellent. So, as I am also, as you say: festively plump, recommended is 30t with possibility of changing up to 32t when feeling better at it. Also not too much an yster for these mountains but we will get there. Shot for info I read somewhere here on Hubland that some places even let you try out the chainrings. I thought if i must choose one to get started rather take the easier climbing chainring for now. I just have to mention, be it 1x10 or if you decide to go 1x11, the sheer joy in the simplicity of the single shifter actually caught me by surpirse. its very lekker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lerouc Posted August 22, 2016 Share I converted a month ago to 1x10 with a 30T on the front. I am fat and have to drag my ass up hills so i also fitted the 42T at the back. I cannot say i climb more difficult than i used to and even did Hansekop last weekend. As soon as my weight has dropped a bit i will get a 32T for the front and then i have the 11speed upgrade kit which is waiting for my current drivetrain to go completely before i switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted August 22, 2016 Share How about these from Kiwi? http://www.rapide.co.za/product/sram-pc-1130-11-speed-chain/ ZAR 460.53 ZAR 323.68That's not bad, still a fair bit more than the R200-250 I've paid for 10sp chains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kk6gan Posted August 23, 2016 Share If you are on any sort of a budget I would recommend the 1 x 10 conversion. If your current cassette is an 11-36t all you need is an expander, I went with a 42t, and to remove the 15t and 17t and replace with a 16t to even the gear changes as well as a narrow wide up front, I went with an oval 32t. If you running 3 x 10 now your derailleur should be a long cage so it will work with this set up. Even if your derailleur does not have a clutch, I have heard plenty of testimony that if your running a decent narrow wide with the correct length chain you should not suffer from chain drops. I stand under correction but the likes of the SLX 11 speed cassette also runs 11-42t so your granny and top speed will remain the same as the 1 x 10 setup above. I would give Evobikes a call and speak to them about the options. Naas and Janos have been top guys whenever I have dealt with them and are very knowledgeable. They even have narrow wide rings available for you to test at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted August 23, 2016 Share I decided to stick to stock 2x10 and rather setup my front derailleur to perfection, it takes some time and a little application of the brain to get the Fd cutouts at the perfect height, the fd parallel to the chainrings and the cable tension spot on but it's doable and once it's done it's set and forget. No noise, I can run the chain in either chainring anywhere on the cassette, also with no noise and I have plenty top end and bottom end ratios, actually I have all of them! And it cost me nothing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reden Posted August 24, 2016 Share personally I did not like the 1x10 conversion with expander and 16t sprocket,The jump between 13-16-19 does not feel comfortable at all.The new Rapide 10 cassette might do the trick. 11-13-15-18...42.Solves the problem of the high gear feeling but in the mean time I went with the Rapide 10s to 11s shifter conversion. Worked well for me.Now I'm on SRAM X1 as the Xo 10s shifter and X( RD are on the Enduro bike with the 11s conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halfdoesyn Posted August 24, 2016 Share I decided to stick to stock 2x10 and rather setup my front derailleur to perfection, it takes some time and a little application of the brain to get the Fd cutouts at the perfect height, the fd parallel to the chainrings and the cable tension spot on but it's doable and once it's done it's set and forget. No noise, I can run the chain in either chainring anywhere on the cassette, also with no noise and I have plenty top end and bottom end ratios, actually I have all of them! And it cost me nothing What ratios are you running on the 2x10? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted August 24, 2016 Share What ratios are you running on the 2x10? If I remember correctly 24t/36t 11-36t Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAAD4 Posted August 24, 2016 Share Rod I went from 3x9 to 1x10 with Rapide parts and it's been lekker. I also decided on 10, as I'm not a fan of using Vaseline before I have to buy consumables. Heck with SRAM Eagle out, soon we'll be buying 11 speed parts cheep cheep on the Hub. Hell I could even afford to go XTR second hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halfdoesyn Posted August 24, 2016 Share If I remember correctly 24t/36t 11-36tI've always wondered if it's worth taking an entry level 3x9 bike to something like a 2x10 if the drivetrain eventually goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted August 24, 2016 Share I've always wondered if it's worth taking an entry level 3x9 bike to something like a 2x10 if the drivetrain eventually goes. 2x9 is almost as good!I rode 22t/36t 11-34 before going 2x10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabe Posted August 24, 2016 Share I've always wondered if it's worth taking an entry level 3x9 bike to something like a 2x10 if the drivetrain eventually goes. I did it.First 2x10, then 1x11, all on the same bike / frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halfdoesyn Posted August 24, 2016 Share 2x9 is almost as good!I rode 22t/36t 11-34 before going 2x10Yes, and I guess it's cheaper as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisan Posted August 24, 2016 Share I've always wondered if it's worth taking an entry level 3x9 bike to something like a 2x10 if the drivetrain eventually goes. People are unloading their inferior 10 speed components in the classifieds like its cursed or something. You should be able to convert without spending too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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