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Second snapped 142 Thru Axle in 6 months


Ferro

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Posted

Hi Hubbers

 

So my eagerly awaited Tiletoria Elgin was a non-starter due to a snapped rear Thru Axle. Upon riding to the start line from the parking lot it snapped. The Tech shack didn't have a single spare either.

 

The DTSwiss TA that was originally on my bike snapped. The KCNC one that i bought as replacement only lasted 6 months. Clearly I'm doing something wrong and/or buying the wrong parts.

 

I don't do any hectic or DH riding but i am 105kg. I finger tighten the TA and the second one was actually fitted by the bike shop themselves and never adjusted by me.

 

Is there perhaps a solid TA or a much stronger one? These hollow ones just aren't lasting.

 

Edit: My bike is a 29er dual suss

 

Thoughts and recommendations will be appreciated.

 

Cheers

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Posted

Unfortunately, that KCNC one would never have lasted. Well, normally they never do.

 

Anyway - I'd look at getting one of the newer DT Swiss TA's, as they are I think stronger. You can also get the Giant branded one, as it's the same thing. Another option is a bolt-thru axle, but you'll probably need to source that from CRC or one of the other online stores. 

 

There MUST be something wrong with how it's being fitted, or the interface itself. Have you checked to see if there are any burrs / risers in the thread of the dropout or the end cap itself? The fact that they've both snapped at the thread leads me to believe that they either aren't being tightened enough (and therefore being exposed to extra stresses) or there's a pokey bit at the beginning of the thread. 

Posted

Your frame could be bent out of alignment or never aligned perfectly in the first place (I know we believe manufacturing are flawless on our bikes, but every now and then something is not perfect and slips by QC)... Placing extra stress on the skewer, or maybe play on your hub? 

How strong are you - you aren't possibly over tightening the crap out of it - also a possibility if you have dem guns...

That's flippen sucking to be stuck without a skewer! 

Posted

Thanks Guys

I was not aware of that about KCNC. Lesson learn't there.

The first one broke on my first frame. The second on my new replacement frame. Um, yes i have cracked a frame too. :wacko:

And, yes Nox, it did suck big time. Watching the groups heading off was not awesome. So i'm going to buy 2 of whatever will be the best option. i would rather have a stronger/solid TA at a few grams more than miss out and/or walk.

Posted

Did you use the same wheelset on both frames, i.e when the cracked frame was replaced did you use the wheelset from the cracked frame on the new frame?

Posted

Your frame could be bent out of alignment or never aligned perfectly in the first place (I know we believe manufacturing are flawless on our bikes, but every now and then something is not perfect and slips by QC)... Placing extra stress on the skewer, or maybe play on your hub? 

How strong are you - you aren't possibly over tightening the crap out of it - also a possibility if you have dem guns...

That's flippen sucking to be stuck without a skewer! 

+1

Posted

Saw another thru axle issue the other day. Also a DT on a Giant Reign. The thing keeps coming loose. Is it possible that yours may have loosened over time leading to play and the breakage? Duane Bosch, the owner of the Reign seemed to think there was some kind of alignment issue on his frame.

 

I hammer my 135QR equipped enduro bike and it never comes loose or breaks. Just sayin :-) 

Posted

Saw another thru axle issue the other day. Also a DT on a Giant Reign. The thing keeps coming loose. Is it possible that yours may have loosened over time leading to play and the breakage? Duane Bosch, the owner of the Reign seemed to think there was some kind of alignment issue on his frame.

 

I hammer my 135QR equipped enduro bike and it never comes loose or breaks. Just sayin :-) 

That is unfortunately a known issue with the hub / thru axle on the R2. You have to wind that thing SUPER tight to get it to stay put. 

 

Raydek had it happen to him almost every ride, until he just wound the thing on there. Hasn't happened since. Must be a problem with that giant branded TA. 

 

I'd call it finger tight, but it's more like palm tight. 

Posted

That is unfortunately a known issue with the hub / thru axle on the R2. You have to wind that thing SUPER tight to get it to stay put. 

 

Raydek had it happen to him almost every ride, until he just wound the thing on there. Hasn't happened since. Must be a problem with that giant branded TA. 

 

I'd call it finger tight, but it's more like palm tight. 

I wonder if a little blue locktite would not help with that - should still be removable, but not vibrate loose.

Posted

Unfortunately, that KCNC one would never have lasted. Well, normally they never do.

 

Anyway - I'd look at getting one of the newer DT Swiss TA's, as they are I think stronger. You can also get the Giant branded one, as it's the same thing. 

 

Point 1 - agreed.

 

The Giant and DT axles aren't the same though, the Giant one has different, Giant-specific thread.

Posted

Thanks again Gents. Really appreciate the input.

Not a Cannondale. LOL. Have uploaded pic. Be gentle.

Yes, same wheelset on both frames.

I am of average strength only. Not "Die Muishond"-like at all.

 

 

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Posted

Thanks again Gents. Really appreciate the input.

Not a Cannondale. LOL. Have uploaded pic. Be gentle.

Yes, same wheelset on both frames.

I am of average strength only. Not "Die Muishond"-like at all.

 

Both those failures look like fatigue failure (same thing as bending a piece of wire back and forth till it breaks) This can only happen if the axle is held rigidly on the threaded side and the non threaded side can move thus "bending" the axle repeatedly at the point where the thread goes into the frame, even fractions of millimetres of movement will be enough to break it over time.

 

If everything was working correctly the axle will not be subjected to a bending force, only a shear force which is much less likely to fatique the metal till breaking point.

 

Seeing that the wheelset is common to both frames the fist suspect would be that there is an incorrect or missing spacer or incorrectly adjusted bearings or something similar that causes the rear wheel to apply a bending force.

 

Other suspects might be that the tolerances on the non threaded hole is incorrect, a suspension pivot bearing is damaged or similar that allows the 2 swingarm sides to move independently. This is unlikely though seeing that it does the same on 2 different frames.

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