Amateur 3D Printing

[Chris 3D]

Detailed

[Chris 3D]

E-bike bash plate

[Amberdrake]

Go Ultimaker Cura Prints will come out perfect

Cura is hit and miss these days, lot of issues with some releases Eg. on anything lower than .2 layer height it prints single lines in brim instead of proper brim(shows that way in slicer) I haven't updated to newer one as that has issues reported with circles. Prusa slicer works for now, but i do use cura as well.

[ABrooks]

I finally decided to put a glass bed on my printer. I ended up with a 4mm mirror. This is the best decision that I have made to up the print quality and ease of print setup. I don't have any adhesion problems and the base of the print comes out beautifully. 

 

I do have an issue where the print has failed due to the filament breaking at the extruder. I think it might be a blockage near the hotend. Any idea on how to clean the area between the nozzle and the ptfe tube?

[Chris 3D]

Change its with a Capricorn and upgrade you nozzle to a Micro Swiss

[ABrooks]

Change its with a Capricorn and upgrade you nozzle to a Micro Swiss

I already have a Capricorn tube. It has been printing flawlesly for about 6-7 months and only broke last week for the first time.

[patches]

Found this thread from the Woodworking one.

New to 3D printing, but have been 3D modelling for nearly 2 decades (AutoCAD, Inventor, Solidworks, Fusion, Revit, Navisworks, etc).

 

Current setup:

 

Printer

I went with an Ender 3 v2 with a few small upgrades (dual gear extruder, Z-axis lead screw top bearing and some printed mods).

 

I went with the Ender 3 v2 as s starting setup as it's affordable, has a 32-BIt board, silent stepper driver, glass bed and belt tensioners right out the box.

 

Looking to add a BL Touch, Capricorn tubing, as soon as Aliexpress delivers!

 

I'm also in the process of building one of the Ikea Lack enclosures for the setup.

 

Modelling & Slicing

For modelling I use either AutoCAD or Fusion360. (Current job doesn't provide me with an Inventor license, but that would be my weapon of choice if I wasn't stingy). I use Cura for slicing.

 

Firmware

 

I stumbled across this site which offers daily Marlin updates for a variety of printers and setups. Subscription is only 10USD/yr.

 

Print Materials

 

I haven't ventured into the more exotic materials yet, so just PLA and PLA+ so far.

Once the enclosure is complete I'll try my hand at ABS and PETG.

Also keen to try flexibles (TPU) although my extruder may not play ball on that one.

 

 

So yeah, great to see others on here that I can learn from. I guess my initial questions are:

 

1. Any cool cycling related prints you can recommend (Thingiverse etc).
2. Anyone here have experience printing flexibles (particularly with a bowden style extruder)?

[patches]

I finally decided to put a glass bed on my printer. I ended up with a 4mm mirror. This is the best decision that I have made to up the print quality and ease of print setup. I don't have any adhesion problems and the base of the print comes out beautifully. 

 

I do have an issue where the print has failed due to the filament breaking at the extruder. I think it might be a blockage near the hotend. Any idea on how to clean the area between the nozzle and the ptfe tube?

 

 

Change its with a Capricorn and upgrade you nozzle to a Micro Swiss

 

 

I already have a Capricorn tube. It has been printing flawlesly for about 6-7 months and only broke last week for the first time.

 

Perhaps the PTFE is pulling away from the hot end slightly, causing the filament to overflow into that gap?

 

Or perhaps the PTFE hs become damaged (slightly melted/worn) at that interface with the hot end, and simply needs the damaged bit trimmed off? (Although melted PTFE is less likely as you're runnig Capricorn tubing) 

[Amberdrake]

I already have a Capricorn tube. It has been printing flawlesly for about 6-7 months and only broke last week for the first time.

Heat Creep, Clean it all out. I found issue with my printer is a lazy fan (sunon) high quality just not providing airflow. 

[Amberdrake]

 

Found this thread from the Woodworking one.

 

New to 3D printing, but have been 3D modelling for nearly 2 decades (AutoCAD, Inventor, Solidworks, Fusion, Revit, Navisworks, etc).

 

Current setup:

 

Printer

 

I went with an Ender 3 v2 with a few small upgrades (dual gear extruder, Z-axis lead screw top bearing and some printed mods).

 

I went with the Ender 3 v2 as s starting setup as it's affordable, has a 32-BIt board, silent stepper driver, glass bed and belt tensioners right out the box.

 

Looking to add a BL Touch, Capricorn tubing, as soon as Aliexpress delivers!

 

I'm also in the process of building one of the Ikea Lack enclosures for the setup.

 

Modelling & Slicing

For modelling I use either AutoCAD or Fusion360. (Current job doesn't provide me with an Inventor license, but that would be my weapon of choice if I wasn't stingy). I use Cura for slicing.

 

Firmware

 

I stumbled across this site which offers daily Marlin updates for a variety of printers and setups. Subscription is only 10USD/yr.

 

Print Materials

 

I haven't ventured into the more exotic materials yet, so just PLA and PLA+ so far.

 

Once the enclosure is complete I'll try my hand at ABS and PETG.

 

Also keen to try flexibles (TPU) although my extruder may not play ball on that one.

 

 

So yeah, great to see others on here that I can learn from. I guess my initial questions are:

 

1. Any cool cycling related prints you can recommend (Thingiverse etc).
2. Anyone here have experience printing flexibles (particularly with a bowden style extruder)?

 

Well done, your well on the way to printing anything. I build Enclosure and redoing electrics to isolate atm.

I Haven't printed TPU but best advice so far i have seen on any setup is go slow really really slow sub 25mm/s.

[patches]

In my quest to organise the study, I decided to take the lower legs off the 3D printer enclosure I'm building so that I can tuck it under the desk.

 

My little mid century bungalow has hardwood floors, and one can hear (and feel) any movement around the place. I didn't want these vibrations transferring into the printer, so I modelled and made some "shock absorbing" feet to screw into the holes where the Ikea Lack table legs were.

 

The enclosure, tucked beneath the desk.

 

The design. The plan was to make it take an M6x40 coach screw to match the holes already in the underside of the table, and make it tool less, by cutting a hex for the coach screw head.

 

The result turned out pretty well. Could tweak some tolerances but it does the job.

 

Now for the "shock absorbing" part...

 

Used squash balls! I have half a dozen of these which I have failed to throw out. At least now they get put so tome use.

 

All 4 in place.

 

And in action.

 

Overall it worked pretty well. As mentioned, I would tweak some tolerances if I were to reprint. The squash balls grip like crazy on the wood floor, and hopefully add a bit of vibration damping to stop household traffic from affecting any prints.

Edited January 24, 2021 by patches

[The Ouzo]

In my quest to organise the study, I decided to take the lower legs off the 3D printer enclosure I'm building so that I can tuck it under the desk.

 

My little mid century bungalow has hardwood floors, and one can hear (and feel) any movement around the place. I didn't want these vibrations transferring into the printer, so I modelled and made some "shock absorbing" feet to screw into the holes where the Ikea Lack table legs were.

 

20210124_092516.jpg

The enclosure, tucked beneath the desk.

 

IMG-20210124-WA0007.jpg

The design. The plan was to make it take an M6x40 coach screw to match the holes already in the underside of the table, and make it tool less, by cutting a hex for the coach screw head.

 

IMG-20210124-WA0023.jpg

The result turned out pretty well. Could tweak some tolerances but it does the job.

 

Now for the "shock absorbing" part...

 

IMG-20210124-WA0024.jpg

Used squash balls! I have half a dozen of these which I have failed to throw out. At least now they get put so tome use.

 

IMG-20210124-WA0025.jpg

All 4 in place.

 

IMG-20210124-WA0029.jpg

And in action.

 

Overall it worked pretty well. As mentioned, I would tweak some tolerances if I were to reprint. The squash balls grip like crazy on the wood floor, and hopefully add a bit of vibration damping to stop household traffic from affecting any prints.

very cool.

 

Having never seen a 3d printer in action this might seem like a stupid question.

How much quick and sudden on the movements of the printer ? are these then not transferred to the feet therebye making the entire enclosure shift around slightly whilst printing.

[patches]

very cool.

 

Having never seen a 3d printer in action this might seem like a stupid question.

How much quick and sudden on the movements of the printer ? are these then not transferred to the feet therebye making the entire enclosure shift around slightly whilst printing.

Not a stupid question.

 

Depending on the printer type, the hot end and bed can move rapidly. One can set the jerk/acceleration to lessen the impact this has on prints. But the base settings I've used seen to be fine.

 

The most some people seem to do is create some sort of vibration dampening where the printer feet rest on the table.

[Amberdrake]

I used some padded sticky feet works fine, but I also have SKR1.3 plus 2209 drivers, lot less noisy/jerky than the standard board.

[Ed-Zulu]

In my quest to organise the study, I decided to take the lower legs off the 3D printer enclosure I'm building so that I can tuck it under the desk.

 

My little mid century bungalow has hardwood floors, and one can hear (and feel) any movement around the place. I didn't want these vibrations transferring into the printer, so I modelled and made some "shock absorbing" feet to screw into the holes where the Ikea Lack table legs were.

 

20210124_092516.jpg

The enclosure, tucked beneath the desk.

 

IMG-20210124-WA0007.jpg

The design. The plan was to make it take an M6x40 coach screw to match the holes already in the underside of the table, and make it tool less, by cutting a hex for the coach screw head.

 

IMG-20210124-WA0023.jpg

The result turned out pretty well. Could tweak some tolerances but it does the job.

 

Now for the "shock absorbing" part...

 

IMG-20210124-WA0024.jpg

Used squash balls! I have half a dozen of these which I have failed to throw out. At least now they get put so tome use.

 

IMG-20210124-WA0025.jpg

All 4 in place.

 

IMG-20210124-WA0029.jpg

And in action.

 

Overall it worked pretty well. As mentioned, I would tweak some tolerances if I were to reprint. The squash balls grip like crazy on the wood floor, and hopefully add a bit of vibration damping to stop household traffic from affecting any prints.

Brilliant!

[patches]

When friends ask why I got a 3D printer, they immediately assume I did so to print little figurines and novelty items.

Whilst I'm not really into that and have not even printed the right-of-passage Benchy, I am massively addicted to boardgames (Catan, Wingspan, Powergrid, Pandemic, Viticulture, etc).

 

So I thought I would put the printer to good use and after failing to find a suitable design on Thingiverse, I printed an organiser for the most of the fiddly pieces in one of the games we're playing regularly.

 

A quick model up.

 

The one are of the design I'm finding is tricky/trial & error is latching systems/notches. That slide-in lid has a small recess to match a raised bump on the box. This is to ensure the lid "locks" into place. I made it 1mm high with a 1mm fillet all round, but after printing I found out that 1mm is way too much and i needed to shave it down. Will try 0.2 or 0.4mm (increments of my print height) next time and hopefully that will allow the lid to slide on smoothly and still lock into place.

 

A good few hours of printing.

 

And designed to fit neatly in the original box

Edited February 2, 2021 by patches