Guest ToxicD Posted January 21, 2017 Share Hi Guys / Gals So after my 5th puncture in a single week I decided to go Tubeless. I understand the benefits of going tubeless and know that in the long run you cant get away without them considering where I ride atm. My question stems from Weight add rather than drop from going Tubeless. Currently I have29x2.20 60 TPI Maxxis Ikon's (590g each) Maxxis Tube (205g each) My concern with going tubeless is that the original tires are not tubeless ready and opted to go with the Crossmark as it was recommended as its LUST and UST. Maxxis Crossmark 29x2.1 120 TPI (840g each WTF)Sealant (440ml combined. Assuming 1ml = 1g then 220g each I don't know) When comparing the 2 sets with one another you get the following total weightTubed: 1590g for both wheelsTubeless: 2120g for both Is this normal going tubeless to add like 530g? Am I just unlucky and what can I expect in terms of weight, inertia in the wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capediver Posted January 21, 2017 Share Unless you at the very sharp end of riding...(maybe you are, I dunno)..... (or a weight weenie , maybe you are, I dunno), you won't notice the difference in weight and inertia but whatever level you are at, you will notice the lack of punctures!PS Gorilla tape will make any tyre/rim tubeless...google that...ghetto tubeless.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucem76 Posted January 21, 2017 Share 220ml sounds like a heap of sealant per tyre? 60-120ml more normal? Sent from my Redmi Note 3 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JXV Posted January 21, 2017 Share Unless you ride a lot of dirt road and non technical trail don't buy Crossmarks....maybe for the back wheel but there are much better choices for the front that offer better cornering and braking. UST compatible tyres can be set up WITHOUT sealant on a UST rim but then you have no protection against punctures. Also, you dont have to use a UST tyre for a tubeless setup. They tend to be heavy. There are lots of lighter options (Maxxis and others) although I must admit, Ardent LUST set up tubeless on my TBLT was trouble free for over a year - I just prefer the grip of tyres I'm using now even if their sidewalls ooze sealant from time to time. Also, no need for 220ml sealant in each tyre. 60ml per wheel is enough for a 29er. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ToxicD Posted January 21, 2017 Share Unless you ride a lot of dirt road and non technical trail don't buy Crossmarks....maybe for the back wheel but there are much better choices for the front that offer better cornering and braking. UST compatible tyres can be set up WITHOUT sealant on a UST rim but then you have no protection against punctures. Also, you dont have to use a UST tyre for a tubeless setup. They tend to be heavy. There are lots of lighter options (Maxxis and others) although I must admit, Ardent LUST set up tubeless on my TBLT was trouble free for over a year - I just prefer the grip of tyres I'm using now even if their sidewalls ooze sealant from time to time. Also, no need for 220ml sealant in each tyre. 60ml per wheel is enough for a 29er. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk For some reason I was asked to buy the 440ml sealant and not the Conti 240ml. I dunno why. I am a bit ignorant to this this whole tubeless thing. I dont like the Crossmark tire tbh. I would have preffer to stick with the Ikon TR. I lot lighter (645g per tyre) Picking up the bike tomorrow so will have a chat with them but I think I need to swap the tires to the Ikon TR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilipV Posted January 22, 2017 Share If you are worried about the weight added by tubeless, then you deserve to fix punctures. You can't have your bread buttered on both sides. It's a compromise, either thicker (heavier) tyres, or increased risk to punctures and cut sidewalls. But there are better options than the crossmarks. They are probably the tyres that will last the longest, but they don't like cornering at all. Ikon at back with an ardent in front will be more lekker. There are many tyre threads here if you need help choosing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaGearA Posted January 22, 2017 Share Maxxis IKONS front and rear , they are perffect for almost anything ,MAKE SURE you take the EXO compound if it good enough for Philip and Matt surely its good enough for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowardSteele Posted January 22, 2017 Share Regardless of how much sealant you run in your tyres ...running tubeless is the way to go.However the less sealant you put in your tyres the quicker you will have to have a top up.Weight wise yes you'll be carrying more weightAnd riding on those off the beaten tracks you'll have to carry a spare tube and 2 bombsI use Vittoria tyres ,Suguro at the rear and Barzo upfront . Riding !khwa ttu trails recently, I must have had over 100 thorns in each tyre they all sealed and i rode on unaffected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazambaan Posted January 22, 2017 Share I agree about the weight. To try and match the puncture resistance of tubeless you would need tubes with sealant in and probably tyre liners. They will add weight. Also, for tubeless, unless you are a racist er, don't buy the lightest tyre you can find; it could cost you in sealing troubles and sidewall punctures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted January 22, 2017 Share Chatted to a guy yesterday that was so gatvol of punctures he now rides with 28mm tyres with a 23mm inside it (bead cut off). No more punctures he reckons .... Wasn't fussed about weight clearly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ToxicD Posted January 23, 2017 Share If you are worried about the weight added by tubeless, then you deserve to fix punctures.You can't have your bread buttered on both sides.It's a compromise, either thicker (heavier) tyres, or increased risk to punctures and cut sidewalls. But there are better options than the crossmarks. They are probably the tyres that will last the longest, but they don't like cornering at all.Ikon at back with an ardent in front will be more lekker.There are many tyre threads here if you need help choosing. Kinda why this conversation was started. I am on tubeless now. I personally think Crossmark was overkill for what I do. The added weight was just an extra consideration. Maxxis IKONS front and rear , they are perffect for almost anything ,MAKE SURE you take the EXO compound if it good enough for Philip and Matt surely its good enough for you? Yea I got the IKON front and rear now. Love them. Did 42km last night on the tubeless setup with them and have to say I dont know if its mental or actual but it felt a lot better than tubed. Dropped around 300g with the IKONS on tubeless now in total. I agree about the weight. To try and match the puncture resistance of tubeless you would need tubes with sealant in and probably tyre liners. They will add weight. Also, for tubeless, unless you are a racist er, don't buy the lightest tyre you can find; it could cost you in sealing troubles and sidewall punctures. I got the TR EXO Ikons. No issue so far (touch wood). I think after yesterdays 42km they set nicely. Will obviously keep an eye on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slickjay007 Posted January 23, 2017 Share I have Maxxis IKONS front and rear and are both tubeless. Just saying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Lyle Posted January 23, 2017 Share I've done countless tubeless conversions mostly using non tubeless tires and rims with no problems. Cheapie racing ralphs that come on new bikes , bit of a B$#@ to seal up but after that no issues .. I've never in my life experienced sidewall cuts (I probable will after writing this tho ) I would have just converted your existing tires to tubeless and carried a spare tube just in case .. Obviously thicker stronger tires will offer more protection but I've never found it necessary.. just my 2cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cois Posted January 23, 2017 Share Just remember that it is not a fit and forget. I had the problem that I forgot to check the sealant level and did a race without any sealant as the sealant started to dry out. So there is a bit of post work to be done on tubeless systems. But that said, I do not see myself going back to tubes. Had only twice in about 3000 km that the sealant did not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbon29er Posted January 23, 2017 Share An old saying is as valid today as it was when UST launched 15 odd years ago, before Stan's brought tubeless to everyone: You can have the wait of fixing punctures or the weight of puncture resistant tubeless.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ToxicD Posted January 23, 2017 Share An old saying is as valid today as it was when UST launched 15 odd years ago, before Stan's brought tubeless to everyone: You can have the wait of fixing punctures or the weight of puncture resistant tubeless.. Or neither if you choose your tires meticulously. Bearing in mind nothing lasts forever. Throwing your bike off a building also ensures you wont ride soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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